Frequently Asked Questions

I do not answer random calls or text messages. The majority of commonly asked questions are already addressed in the Education Tab and FAQ Section on my website.

My website has all the information you may need. Additionally, you may utilize the Support Chat Box, conveniently located on the bottom right-hand side of the website, for faster responses or further assistance.

My pricing is determined by the number of negative items appearing on your credit report, which means the total cost varies for each individual. To ensure accuracy and fairness, every client is required to book a consultation for $63 before receiving a personalized quote.

If this arrangement does not work for you, I completely understand—however, it may mean we're not the best fit to work together at this time.

If you're serious about improving your credit, the first step is booking your consultation.

I accept Afterpay, Klarna, and Zip as flexible payment options.

For clients requesting a traditional payment plan, I only accept payments through an invoice that allows you to securely place your card on file for automatic billing.

Your credit transformation journey begins with a strategic consultation. Book your personalized session to discuss your current credit situation, explore your goals, and map the precise path to achieve exceptional results.

The consultation fee is $63 which covers:

• $30 for the consultation itself, compensating for time and expertise
• $33 for your enrollment in the credit monitoring service

• We send out customized letters to the credit bureaus to challenge for removal of negative items off your file and clean up your report. Things like charge-offs, collections, late payments, inquiries, derogatory, evictions and even repossessions.
• You will be required to pay $33/month to monitor your credit until we're done with your profile. It's like a credit karma but it's more accurate and shows everything we need to see.
• Each round takes 45 days for updates and results! (approximately one and a half months) You will have access to your own personal portal to track the progress as we go! 24/7 access!

Step 1: Credit Repair
My primary responsibility is to dispute inaccurate, unverifiable, and negative items on your credit report. That is the service you are paying for.

Step 2: Credit Growth
In addition, I provide all clients with guidance on how to properly build and maintain their credit scores by giving them a TO DO LIST.

Step 3: Profile Building
I also coach clients on how to develop a strong credit profile and assist with applying for credit cards when the timing is appropriate. THIS IS ALSO INCORPORATED WITHIN THE TO DO LIST.

Step 4: Execution
This is when I assist clients who are ready to pursue business funding or apply for major financing such as a home or vehicle. While this level of involvement is not required of me, I choose to provide it because I genuinely care about my clients' long-term success.

Step 5: LLC Setup / Business Funding (BONUS)
Regarding business credit, I educate clients on how to properly set up an LLC, establish relationships with banks, and position themselves to qualify for business funding. My goal is to teach clients how to apply independently. However, if you choose to have me assist directly with applications, I charge a 10% success fee based on the approved amount.

I also work with relationship managers at major institutions, including Chase, U.S. Bank, PNC Bank, Truist, Citizens Bank, the SBA, and American Express. These relationship managers are the individuals who actually review and approve applications, and I refer my clients directly to them. Additionally, I offer tradelines & shelf corporations, which function similarly to tradelines but for an LLC.

I can't give a specific timeframe for a few reasons:

1. Often times clients hold themselves back with the process by not keeping their credit monitoring up to date.
2. They don't check their emails for instructions and they don't send in their most recent proof of address every month — and we need that in order to dispute on your behalf.

These two things alone can prolong a client's results for months or even up to a year — which would not be my fault as long as I send out emails and texts notifying them. So his total timeframe took a total of 10 months. 10 months, although it could have potentially been significantly shorter without delays.

On top of that, the credit repair timeline varies from person to person, depending on the number and type of negative items on the credit report.

That said, results like these are possible but not typical and cannot be guaranteed for every client — no one in this industry can honestly make such a promise. If they do, they're telling you what you want to hear so you feel comfortable enough to give them your money because they know you're in a rush & most likely desperate.

Each dispute round lasts approximately 45 days, and after every round, you will receive a detailed PDF update outlining any deletions or changes that occurred.

When you begin the credit repair process, my goal is to dispute and address all negative items currently listed on your credit report.

I do understand that sometimes accounts report later than expected, and I'm always willing to work with clients in good faith to keep them on track. That said, this is a professional courtesy, not an obligation.

Please note:

• Continuously applying for new credit or creating new inquiries during the repair process works against your progress and creates additional work that makes my job significantly harder.
• If we've already discussed the importance of keeping your accounts positive and you still receive new negative items, an additional charge may apply for continued credit repair services.
• If I decide to charge for additional work, I will inform you first and ask whether you wish to move forward.
• If you choose not to, all work on your file will be paused or stopped entirely.

If you are in ChexSystems or Early Warning then that means that you have been violated. Read 15 USC 6802 - 15 USC 6805. If you read your terms and conditions and privacy agreements of your credit card accounts and banking information, it tells you that they do not share your personal information with any 3rd party non-affiliate…

What we don't realize is when we open up these accounts, we have the option to opt out so they don't share our information — but they don't outright tell us that in plain English either. In their privacy agreements and terms and conditions, it states that they don't share your info, but yet they do anyway, which is a violation.

Request your consumer report from both websites & send me over the PDFs once you receive them.

After that, we will mark up any information you do not recognize or whatever is negative and start the disputing process. This process can take up to 3 months.

Credit Repair DOES NOT DELETE THE DEBT! — it only removes inaccurate, unverifiable, or outdated negative items from your credit report. However it is still important.

Think of it like a record expungement: the event happened, but lenders can no longer see it when reviewing your credit. This allows you to qualify for approvals you may have been denied before.

Once an item has been deleted from your credit report, the credit bureaus are not supposed to reinsert it. However, in some cases, if the debt remains unsettled, a creditor or collection agency may attempt to re-report the account—often assuming that consumers are unaware of their rights under the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA).

• Make sure that your email storage isn't full. This will prevent us from being able to email you and it will also prevent you from being able to email us.
• I don't want a situation where both parties are doing their part but the emails aren't going through.
• If you ever get a new email or prefer us to send messages to a different email, please notify my team with your First and Last Name and new email so we can update it in our system. This also applies for new phone numbers.

Debt-to-Income Ratio (DTI) is a simple but very important number lenders use to decide whether to approve you, how much to approve, and what terms you get.

Your DTI is the percentage of your gross monthly income that goes toward monthly debt payments.

In short: It tells lenders how much of your income is already spoken for.

DTI Ranges:

• Under 36% — Excellent. Most lenders consider this healthy
• 36%–43% — Acceptable for most conventional loans
• 44%–50% — Risky. Some lenders may require compensating factors
• Over 50% — Most lenders will decline

Formula: Total Monthly Debt ÷ Gross Monthly Income × 100 = DTI%

These two terms sound similar but they measure completely different things on your credit report. Understanding the difference is key to understanding your credit score.

Closing a credit card hurts your score in two ways:

• Increases your utilization — You lose that card's available credit limit, which raises your overall utilization ratio
• Reduces your credit age — Old accounts help boost your average credit history. Closing them makes your profile look younger to lenders

When It MAY Make Sense To Close:

• The card has a high annual fee and you get no benefit from it
• The account is relatively new (opened within the last year)
• You genuinely cannot control spending on it

Best practice: Keep old cards open, use them for a small recurring charge (like a Netflix subscription), and set it on autopay. Free credit history maintenance.

Many people believe that paying off a collection account will improve their credit. In most cases, it won't — at least not immediately.

• The collection stays on your report for 7 years from the original delinquency date
• Paying it changes the status to "Paid Collection" — but it's still a negative mark
• Disputing and getting it deleted is always better than just paying it

The Exception: If you can negotiate a Pay for Delete agreement in writing before paying, it may be worth it. Always get it in writing first.