Active Client Tab
The purpose of the Active Client Tab is to provide guidance and set clear expectations throughout your credit restoration journey. This section contains important information designed to help you understand the process and what to expect moving forward.
Please take the time to carefully review each category in full, rather than skimming or skipping sections, as many common questions are addressed here. If you have a question, we encourage you to review this page first. If you are unable to locate the information you need, you are welcome to schedule a free consultation for further assistance.
Tab Categories
Choose a category below to access specific information, guidelines, and resources
Book A Consultation
How To Contact Me
Please DO NOT message me on social media. Also Most of the time i am completely booked so I DO NOT answer random phone calls. This dropdown will explain exactly how to get in contact with me if needed.
Rules & Expectations
Payment agreements, service policies, refund terms, and important client obligations.
Things That Can Hold You Back
(THINGS YOU SHOULD BE DOING ON YOUR END)
Common issues that delay results and how to avoid them. Stay on track with your credit repair journey.
Frequently Asked Questions
Get answers to common questions about the credit repair process, timelines, and what to expect.
Educational
Learn about credit scores, reports, and profiles. Understand how credit works and how to improve it.
TO DO LIST
(THINGS YOU SHOULD BE DOING ON YOUR END)
Action items to help boost your credit score, including recommended credit building accounts.
TO DO LIST ZOOM RECORDINGS
Access recorded Zoom sessions and walkthroughs to guide you through your to-do list steps.
Resources
Links, tools, and additional resources to support your credit repair journey and financial growth.
Refer A Friend
Know someone who needs credit repair? Refer them and earn rewards when they sign up.
Tap the gift box to share your ideas
Book A Consultation
Schedule consultations and learn how to contact our team
How To Contact Me
The screenshot above reflects my current calendar availability. As shown, my schedule is typically fully booked.
⏱ Business Hours: 12:00 PM – 5:00 PM CST — Monday through Thursday
Not available during ALL HOLIDAYS
These are the official business operating hours for both myself and my staff. These hours should NOT be confused with personal assumptions of what may be considered standard business hours or appropriate availability.
Please note that both my phone and this timeframe is exclusively dedicated only to clients who have taken the time to book a consultation and is not monitored for general text messaging or random calls.
During consultations, my phone is placed on “Do Not Disturb” to ensure each client receives my full, undivided attention. Responding to messages during scheduled appointments would be both unprofessional and unfair to those who have reserved that time.
My website has all the information you may need. Additionally, you may utilize the Support Chat Box, conveniently located on the bottom right-hand side of the website, for faster responses or further assistance. I also have a Suggestion Box if you feel there is any information that should be added to my website.
Boundaries & Rules
Everyone should have my Booking Link, the Support Number, and Support Email. These are the proper channels for all business communication.
- Please DO NOT call after 8:00 PM (Central Standard Time) under any circumstances. While calls outside of business hours are already discouraged, contacting me after this time is completely unacceptable.
- It is important to respect my personal time and professional boundaries, as well as my private life and relationships.
- Please DO NOT CONTACT ME through social media regarding business matters. In many cases, social media usernames do not match a client's legal name, making it difficult to properly identify who I am communicating with.
- Additionally, if I am active on social media outside of my business hours, that time is reserved for personal use. I am not available to discuss business matters during that time. Especially Friday–Sunday & ALL HOLIDAYS. For all business-related inquiries, including all QUESTIONS, COMMENTS, & CONCERNS, please use the appropriate booking link or official communication channels.
- As an active client, you are entitled to schedule consultations at no additional cost. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation.
Outside Of Operating Hours
Outside of MY business hours, both my staff, and also me myself will be unavailable and do not have access to my business phone. Especially Friday–Sunday & ALL HOLIDAYS. For this reason, it is important to book a consultation to ensure your questions and concerns are properly addressed in a timely and professional manner.
If questions arise outside of business hours, please take note of your questions and schedule an appointment for the next available time slot to ensure they are properly addressed.
I Work Late & Am Unavailable During Business Hours
If you have a late work schedule and are unavailable during standard business hours (Monday–Thursday, 12 PM–5 PM), I am willing to accommodate after-hours consultations.
However, I kindly ask that you provide at least 24 hours' notice to arrange this accommodation.
For example, if today is March 28th (Saturday) — a non-business day where neither myself nor my staff are available — please follow the steps below:
Step 1: Write down your questions to ensure nothing is missed.
Step 2: Book a consultation for the latest available time slot on the next business day (e.g., Monday, March 30th).
Step 3: Text the support number 312-584-9969 to request the specific time you prefer for that day.
All after-hours requests must be scheduled in advance • Requested times must be after 5 PM • Not available before 12 PM
Expectations
What I expect from each client is to schedule an appointment whenever they have any Questions, Comments, Concerns, Or Just Need Assistance. For example, if you've reached a specific step or reviewed a recording and need clarification, you can book a consultation and say, "I'm currently on Step 3 and need help understanding a certain part."
In those situations, I am more than willing to take the time to walk you through everything in detail and stay on the call as long as needed to ensure you fully understand — because you have done your part. At that point, it is my responsibility to do mine.
But I Just Have A Quick Question
Again, My website has all the information you may need. Additionally, you may utilize the Support Chat Box, conveniently located on the bottom right-hand side of the website, for faster responses or further assistance. I also have a Suggestion Box if you feel there is any information that should be added to my website.
The best way to reach me or get your questions answered is to book a consultation.
When you book, it guarantees that your concerns will be addressed during your scheduled time. If I have downtime before then, I may reach out sooner — but if not, you'll still have my full attention during your appointment.
Just because it's a quick question doesn't mean it's a quick answer.
For this reason, all questions, comments, and concerns must be addressed through a booked consultation to ensure no one goes unanswered.
I understand sometimes you may just have a quick question but realistically, I cannot repeatedly stop throughout the day to answer or return hundreds of unscheduled calls and text messages each day. Especially if they have already been addressed in the provided resources. Most of your questions will be answered in the FAQ, Rules & Expectations or Educational tab.
Doing so would disrupt workflow, delay progress, and ultimately take away from my ability to deliver the level of service and results that all clients deserve. It would also be unfair to those clients who are actively following the process and respecting the structure in place.
The screenshot above reflects my current calendar availability. As shown, my schedule is typically fully booked.
Booking Link
Contact Information
☎️ Support: 312-584-9969
📧 Email: [email protected]
Social Media
Yours Truly, TheCreditDaddy
Rules & Expectations
Important policies and agreements for all clients
Payment Agreement & Continuation of Services
When a payment agreement is established with a defined timeline, it is essential that the terms of that agreement are honored.
The fee charged covers the entire credit improvement process, not an individual dispute round. While payment plans are not required, one was extended as a courtesy.
If a scheduled payment is missed, all work on your account will be paused immediately, and no updates will be provided until the outstanding payment has been received.
If our team attempts to contact you regarding a missed payment and does not receive a response within 24 hours, the process will be fully suspended. In order to resume services, the remaining balance must be paid in full.
CLEAR UNDERSTANDING:
The amount you were charged represents the cost of the entire process. Any work completed up to that point is considered final and non-refundable.
This is similar to financing a vehicle. When you enter a financing agreement—for example, over a five-year term—you are expected to fulfill the agreed-upon payments for the duration of that contract.
Even if you make payments consistently for 3 years, failure to continue those payments can result in consequences such as the vehicle being disabled (in some newer models), repossession, and potential negative reporting to your credit.
The payments already made are not refunded, as they covered the time and usage of the vehicle during that period.
Now granted you're not buying a car, but I expect the same level of respect for my business. You wouldn't call the dealership and mention how you've already made payments for 3 years in a row. Because you understand you've broken the agreement so they no longer have to give you access.
Likewise, in this process, payments made reflect the services rendered up to that point. Therefore, they are not eligible for reimbursement, And I am not required to continue service at that point.
Once services have been stopped due to missing payments—the remaining balance must be PAID IN FULL, In order to resume services.
These policies are not personal. They are necessary to protect the integrity of our business operations and ensure fairness across all client accounts.
Inactive Client Policy & Reactivation Fee
At Wealthy Intention, we value every client and are committed to providing high-quality, consistent service. To maintain efficiency and ensure fairness to all active clients, we've implemented the following; Inactive Client Policy & Reactivation Fee
Reactivation Fee: $300
Inactive Client Policy
Clients with 60+ days of inactivity-meaning no responses/engagement, no document submissions, or no reactivation of credit monitoring-are placed on inactive status and removed from our active roster. To resume services, a $300 Reactivation Fee is required (covers admin time, file review, and system re-entry). Once you reach 60 days of inactivity you will be required to pay that $300 Reactivation fee.
Please note that multiple reminders via email and text are sent before an account becomes inactive. We understand that life happens-unexpected events, busy schedules, and personal matters can sometimes take priority. That's why we send multiple reminders before marking any account as inactive. Even if you communicate the reason you are unable to maintain your credit monitoring subscription, or upload certain documents, it does not eliminate the issues associated with becoming an inactive client.
At the end of the day Credit repair is a collaborative process. When clients go silent or no action is taken after repeated contact attempts, it not only delays their own progress but also affects our ability to manage our workload efficiently. It creates workflow and scheduling challenges for our team and backend systems. This policy ensures that active, engaged clients receive the attention and priority they deserve.
While an account is inactive, we are unable to continue work on the credit profile. However, we must still retain a client's file records of what was disputed or deleted in case a client later requests updates or verification of prior activity before becoming inactive. Which requires us to maintain your profile in our system and preserve all past correspondence, which results in monthly fees. Also storage costs for backed up emails and text for keeping old conversations for proof that reminders have been sent out. So in conclusion Even when no active work is being performed. We still have to pay for your files unless we delete all history.
For your convenience We also accept Afterpay, Klarna, and Zip as other forms of payment. Once paid, PLEASE REACH OUT FOR INSTRUCTIONS & we will promptly restore your account and continue your services.
Canceling Your Credit Repair Service
The average client goes through a minimum 4-7 rounds of credit repair before they have completed their program. Each round of results takes 45 days (1 and a half months) for a new update. These 4-7 rounds as a whole range between 6-9 months & sometimes up to 1 year for more severe cases.
By law we have to give the credit bureaus that time frame to view a client's file and validate the debt/inaccuracies! Please be patient with our team while we get each client results. If additional rounds are needed we will provide them at no extra charge.
Never judge a whole process based off 1 or 2 rounds. Just like a basketball game is 4 quarters — if something takes 3 or more rounds that's perfectly normal. It's apart of the process. You can expect certain rounds & sometimes back-to-back rounds with no change. Believe it or not it actually helps with getting deletions because it helps us catch the credit reporting agencies & debt collectors in violation even more than they already were.
💯 100% Money-Back Guarantee
If a client completes four (4) FULL ROUNDS of disputes as outlined in their service plan and receives zero (0) deletions, a 100% refund of the Service charge paid for credit repair only will be issued. (This does not include the $33/month for your credit monitoring.) This guarantee applies only when all program requirements and guidelines have been fully followed by the client.
We are committed to providing professional, compliant, and results-driven credit services. Because credit improvement is a process that requires time, consistency, and client cooperation, the following refund policy applies to all clients.
If you choose to stop services before completion, that is your right; however, no refund will be issued if you do not allow us to complete a minimum 4 rounds of the agreed-upon process due to you changing your mind. I shall only be responsible for a refund if I DID NOT DO MY JOB. Not because someone stopped me from doing my job which is get you DELETIONS.
How To Cancel:
Whenever you wish to stop the process just simply text 312-584-9969 with your first and last name and let us know that you no longer wish to move forward with the process and that you will take it from here. We will then stop the process for you immediately and whatever work that has been done up to that point will be considered final!
New Negative Items Policy 🚩
When you begin the credit repair process, my goal is to dispute and address all negative items currently listed on your credit report.
Important Notice
If new negative items appear during the process - such as new collections, inquiries, or late payments - please understand that I am not required to work on those new items. However, I do understand that there is a difference between an old account appearing later than expected vs applying for things & adding new inquiries or late payments.
Active Client Protection:
As part of my service process, if a new collection account appears or a previously deleted collection reappears while you are actively enrolled in the credit repair program, it will automatically be included in the next dispute round at NO ADDITIONAL COST. That said, this is a professional courtesy, not an obligation. I handle it this way in good faith to help keep all clients on track and maintain the progress of their credit profile.
After Program Completion:
Once all negative items have been removed and your file has been successfully completed and closed, the service is considered finished. If a collection account later appears or reappears after the completion of the program, there will be a $300 reactivation fee to reinitiate credit repair services.
To set clear expectations:
- Any new applications must be discussed with me in advance (book an appointment). This ensures we stay aligned, protect your credit, and avoid delays in your results. My goal is to deliver strong results, and that requires us to work together strategically.
- If we've already discussed the importance of keeping your accounts positive and you still receive new inquiries or negative items, an additional charge may apply for continued credit repair services.
- If I decide to charge for additional work, I will inform you first and ask whether you wish to move forward.
If you choose not to, that is your right. However I will only continue to work on the negative items that were originally on your report when you first enrolled as a client. Repeatedly applying for new credit while your disputes are in progress adds unnecessary inquiries, lowers your scores, works against and slows up your progress, and creates additional work that makes my job significantly harder. It also makes me look like I'm not doing my job. I simply can't have that.
Refund Policy
We are committed to providing professional, compliant, and results-driven credit services. Because credit improvement is a process that requires time, consistency, and client cooperation, the following refund policy applies to all clients.
100% Money-Back Guarantee
If a client completes four (4) full rounds of disputes as outlined in their service plan and receives zero (0) deletions, a 100% refund of fees paid will be issued. This guarantee applies only when all program requirements and guidelines have been fully followed by the client.
No Refunds Once the Process Begins
Once services have started, no refunds will be issued due to a change of mind. Please ensure you have discussed this decision with your spouse or decision-maker prior to payment completion.
If you choose to stop services before completion, that is your right; however, no refund will be issued if you do not allow us to complete the agreed-upon process. I shall only be responsible for a refund if I DID NOT DO MY JOB. Not because someone stopped me from doing my job which is get you DELETIONS.
Client Responsibility & Non-Refundable Conditions
Refunds will not be issued if the client interferes with the credit repair process or fails to follow required guidelines, including but not limited to:
- Clients who have been inactive for 60 days or more will be considered inactive and temporarily removed from our active client roster.
- Continuously adding new negative items to their credit profile
- Ignoring instructions or deadlines
- Failing to provide required documentation or access
- Taking actions that delay, disrupt, or prevent the completion of services
Any work completed up to that point will be considered final and non-refundable.
Fairness & Accountability: This policy exists to ensure fairness and accountability for both parties. Our goal is to help you rebuild and protect your credit, but success requires active participation, honesty, and cooperation from the client.
⚠️ Hard Truth:
You can't pay for credit repair then:
- Ignore or skim through instructions
- Stop responding
- Ignore emails and text messages
- Keep adding new inquiries, or late payments
- Skip credit building
Then come back 3 months later saying you haven't heard anything, seen any changes, requesting a refund, & proceed to blame my company or the process.
Credit repair works only when WE work.
I'm not a miracle worker, I'm a strategist. You have to do your part as well.
Please take your credit seriously-it represents your financial credibility.
Setting Up Your Client Portal
⚠️ Important Notice: Anytime you upload any documents inside your portal you must notify us to check it at 312-584-9969 or [email protected]. We only check the client portal when notified!!
Within 4 Business Days After Getting Started my support team should have sent you a email for you to access your portal. The sole purpose of your client portal is to track your own progress and upload documents when necessary. Search for TRACK YOUR RESULTS or CLIENT PORTAL LOGIN in your email and spam. If you do not see the email with the username and password for your online client portal please text my team to make sure it gets resent out. (312) 584-9969
Important Notice: Anytime you upload any documents inside your portal you must notify us to check it at 312-584-9969 or [email protected]
Log into your portal directly on the website: https://secure.scorexer.com/Portal/login.jsp
Things That Can Hold You Back
Common issues that delay results and how to avoid them
(THINGS YOU SHOULD BE DOING ON YOUR END)
Primary Issues That Can Hold You Back
- Expired Driver's License Or State ID
- Outdated credit monitoring reports
- Inaccessible or incorrect credit monitoring login credentials
- Missing or invalid Proof of Address (POA) documentation
- Full or inaccessible email inbox (clean up space or buy more storage if needed)
- Phone settings that block or silence unknown numbers. Please save 312-584-9969 in your contacts to ensure uninterrupted communication.
- NOT NOTIFYING US BY TEXTING THE SUPPORT NUMBER AFTER AN ISSUE HAS BEEN HANDLED.
IMPORTANT MENTAL NOTE:
Due to the high volume of clients we serve — over 500 individuals — it is not feasible for our team to repeatedly follow up with hundreds of clients each day regarding the same issue. It is also unfair to active clients and takes away from the attention they deserve. Our priority is to continue assisting clients who are actively completing the required steps in the program.
Please understand that once we have notified you of the issue, we have fulfilled our responsibility on our end. For this reason, WE WILL NOT revisit the client's file unless we are notified that the issue has been resolved. We will just assume the matter is still pending.
These are the primary issues that delay results for most clients. By proactively managing the items listed above, you set yourself up for a smooth and successful experience.
Whenever an issue arises — such as a POA matter or a login-issue concern etc. — our first step is to promptly notify the client so they are aware of the matter and can take the necessary steps to resolve it. By doing so you are tagged within our system. Once tagged, automated messages with CLEAR INSTRUCTIONS are sent to you via email & text every 10 days. You will no longer receive these notifications after a maximum of three reminders are issued, or until we are notified that the issue is resolved — whichever occurs first.
These reminders are simply a courtesy to ensure you don't forget & nothing is overlooked, as we understand that schedules can be busy. After providing this notification, our team proceeds with assisting other clients.
If you receive an email or text message regarding any of the items above, it is not sent without cause and is not a system error.
In most cases, either:
- Our team was not notified that the issue has been handled. (Most of the time this is the case)
- The issue has resurfaced and requires immediate attention.
- The login information provided were invalid.
- The submitted documentation is invalid.
That Said — These notifications should NEVER be ignored.
Before responding with "I've already completed this," please take a moment to verify first, and provide a screenshot as proof if you believe the issue has already been resolved.
- Log directly into your credit monitoring account to confirm the report is current
- Confirm all documents are clear, dates are accurate & all submitted documents are up to date
Verification ensures accuracy, prevents delays, and keeps your account active and progressing as intended. Notify 312-584-9969 whenever you have taken care of an issue.
Credit Monitoring
It Is Extremely Important That You Understand The Difference Between UPDATED and ACTIVE:
● ACTIVE means you have successfully paid the $33 fee for your credit monitoring ( just because your card was charged doesn't mean your report will automatically update )
● UPDATED means you actually ordered a new report. ( Every month you get a new one but they do not update automatically, sometimes you have to manually refresh the report )
BOTH OF THESE MUST BE DONE IN ORDER FOR US TO GIVE YOU AN UPDATE. Regardless of if you have IDIQ OR MFSN, Your Credit Report Should NEVER Be More Than 40 Days Old. If it is then that means you haven't logged into your credit report to update it.
Unless you text 312-584-9969 with your first and last name, giving us consent to update your report when needed. We cannot update it for anyone because we are not responsible for any unauthorized charges. If you do not wish to give us consent to update it for you that is fine. It will be your responsibility to keep track as you Will Only Be Reminded 3 Times About This... So I Am Telling You Now To Set Monthly Reminders In Your Calendar.
Understand if you fall behind on this I won't be able to send you your round results. But that DOES NOT MEAN That you don't have any results. I just can't tell you what's going on in June if I'm looking at a report from March.
Step 1. IDIQ USERS ONLY - Every 40 Days I want you to go to the website NOT THE APP. https://member.identityiq.com/
- ● If your report isn't already showing the current month, click on REFRESH REPORT.
Step 1. MFSN USERS ONLY - Every 40 Days I want you to go to the website NOT THE APP: https://member.myfreescorenow.com/login/ — Member Login | MyFreeScoreNow
- ● If your report isn't already showing the current month, click on ORDER NEW UPDATE
Step 2: Notify Us At With Your First & Last Name 312-584-9969 That Your Report Has Been Updated. If It Has Been More Than 45 Days Since Your Last PDF Update You shall receive one Within 4 Business Days From Notifying Us.
If you receive an email or text message regarding any of the information above, it is not sent without cause and is not a system error. In most cases, either: Our team was not updated that the issue has been handled, or The issue has resurfaced and requires immediate attention. These notifications should never be ignored.
Before responding with I have already completed this, please take a moment to verify first: Log directly into your credit monitoring account to confirm the report is active. Make sure your reports are actually updated. Make sure your logins are Correct. Verification ensures accuracy, prevents delays, and keeps your account active and progressing as intended.
Inactivity Policy
If Your Dispute Process Is Paused For Inactivity After 60 Days You Will Be Placed On Our Inactive Client Roster And YOU WILL HAVE TO PAY A $300 Re-Activation Fee TO GET BACK STARTED.
Please note that multiple reminders are sent via email and text before a profile becomes inactive. When no action is taken after repeated contact attempts, it creates workflow and scheduling challenges for our team and backend systems.
POA (Proof Of Address)
Proof of Address Requirements:
There Are only 3 acceptable documentations for this: Utility Bill, Bank Statement, Or Lease Agreement. NOTHING ELSE. & We Only Need 1 Out Of The 3. If you are paperless, share the link of the PDF to our support email instead of sending a screenshot.
All Bank Statements Are Accepted (Chime, Cashapp, Varo, Bank Of America, Or Whatever Institution You Bank With. Credit Card Bank Statements Are Also Acceptable)
To be valid, the document must:
• Display your FULL FIRST AND LAST NAME (not a business name or nicknames)
• Show your COMPLETE CURRENT RESIDENTIAL ADDRESS
• Pictures MUST BE FULL PAGE Meaning TAKE IT OUT OF THE MAIL AND UNFOLD IT
• Screenshots Must Also Be FULL PAGE meaning MAKE SURE ALL 4 CORNERS ARE IN THE PIC
• Must Not Be Too Light Or Too Dark
• Must NOT be blurry
• No shadows blocking words on the documents
• Must Be Dated within the LAST 60 DAYS
If the document is older than 60 days, it is considered outdated and cannot be used. For example, if it is currently December and the document on file is from September or October, it is no longer valid. For this reason, we strongly recommend SUBMITTING A NEW POA EVERY MONTH as soon as it becomes available. Utility bills and bank statements are often delayed, and by the time the next update cycle arrives, a previously submitted document may already be expired. This can cause unnecessary delays for both you and our team.
If you have a RENTAL OR LEASE AGREEMENT, that is ideal, as it typically remains valid for an extended period and eliminates the need for monthly submissions.
Important: Please note that the address on your utility bill or bank statement DOES NOT NEED TO MATCH the address listed on your State ID Or Drivers License — that is not what we are verifying. What matters is that the address on your Utility Bill Or Bank Statement accurately matches your CURRENT PLACE OF RESIDENCE, as this serves as your OFFICIAL PROOF OF ADDRESS (THIS IS WHAT WE ARE VERIFYING EVERY MONTH).
If the address on your utility bill or bank statement DOES NOT MATCH the CURRENT address where you are actively living, you have Three (3) options:
SUGGESTION #1 (Highly Recommended):
• Update the address directly online using your mobile app before downloading the new PDF document. Resend it to [email protected]
• If the New PDF doesnt display your edits immediately you may have no choice but to wait until they new one is ready. Which should be at the beginning of the new month. (I believe chime bank statements update immediately after editing)
SUGGESTION 2 (Faster results):
• Download a pdf editor app and change the address to your new address
SUGGESTION #3 (Completely Optional):
• If you cannot edit your Utility Bill or Bank Statement yourself you can Submit a editing fee, which covers the cost for my partner to update the document on your behalf.
Understand This POA Is Mandatory. If You Cannot Provide This Monthly, We Wont Be Able To Dispute On Your Behalf.
Inactivity Policy:
If Your Dispute Process Is Paused For Inactivity After 60 Days You Will Be Placed On Our Inactive Client Roster And YOU WILL HAVE TO PAY A $300 Re-Activation Fee TO GET BACK STARTED. Please note that multiple reminders are sent via email and text before a profile becomes inactive. When no action is taken after repeated contact attempts, it creates workflow and scheduling challenges for our team and backend systems.
EMAILS
It is impossible to call/text 400+ people everyday so most of our communication will be through via email. To ensure you receive all important updates regarding your account, please add our emails [email protected] & [email protected] to your contacts and mark it as a priority or VIP sender in your email settings.
📱 How To Add As VIP (iPhone/Apple Mail):
- Open your Mail app → go to your Mailboxes screen
- Tap VIP in the list
- Tap Add VIP
- Search for and select [email protected]
- Repeat for [email protected]
This will help prevent our messages from being sent to your spam or promotions folder and ensure you receive all updates, dispute results, and important notifications in a timely manner.
Just to be on the safe side — be sure to check your emails & spam weekly if not daily.
It is just as important to make sure that your email storage isn't full. This will prevent us from being able to email you and it will also prevent you from being able to email us. I don't want a situation where both parties are doing their part but the emails aren't going through.
⚠️ Recipient Inbox Full Error:
If you or we receive a "Recipient inbox full — your message couldn't be delivered" error, it means your email storage is maxed out. Please immediately clean up your inbox or purchase more storage to ensure communication isn't disrupted.
If you ever get a new email or prefer us to send notifications to a different email please notify us at 312-584-9969 with your First & Last Name and new email. This also applies for new phone numbers.
Login Credentials
MAKE SURE YOUR PASSWORD IS Credit@2025 with a Capital "C"
- ● If you can't use Credit@2025, add a period at the end so Credit@2025.
- ● If That Doesn't Work Please Use Credit@2025!
Please Do Not Make Your Own Password. It Makes Our Jobs A lot easier when we can have all clients have the same password. If none of these passwords work out please text our support number to see what password we recommend.
Having Trouble Changing Your Password?
IdentityIQ Customer Service: (877) 875-4347
MyFreeScoreNow Customer Service: (888) 548-2008
Please be sure to text 312-584-9969 with your first and last name after you change it
Password Change Required
This happens every so often for security purposes. These notifications should never be ignored. If you receive an email or text message regarding any of the items above, it is not sent without cause and is not a system error.
In most cases, either:
- ● Our team was not notified by you that the issue has been handled, or
- ● The issue has resurfaced and requires immediate attention.
Before responding with "I've already completed this," please take a moment to verify first:
Log directly into your credit monitoring account to confirm the report is current
What To Do:
Please Do Not Make Your Own Password. It Makes Our Jobs A lot easier when we can have all clients have the same password. If none of these passwords work out please text our support number to see what password we recommend.
Step 1: Actually log into your account to confirm if the same issue pops up for you. If not, send a screenshot to our support team of you being logged into the credit report to 312-584-9969.
Step 2: If the issue also shows for you, just enter your email to receive the reset password link. Once received, enter the same exact password Credit@2025 with a Capital "C". If you can't use the same password add a period at the end so Credit@2025. If That Doesn't Work Please Use Credit@2025!
Step 3: After Updating The Password Be sure to log into your account to make sure the password works.
Step 4: Once completed Please text (312) 584-9969 or with your first and last name to notify us that your account is back active with the new password, as we will no longer check on this for you until notified.
Having Trouble Changing Your Password?
IdentityIQ Customer Service: (877) 875-4347
MyFreeScoreNow Customer Service: (888) 548-2008
Please Be sure to text 312-584-9969 with your first and last name after you have changed it.
Phone Settings - DND
Please add our support number — 312-584-9969 — to your phone contact favorites for both calls and text messages. This helps ensure that our communications reach you successfully and are not mistakenly blocked or filtered by your phone. It is common for mobile devices to have settings enabled that silence or block unknown numbers. Please note that 312-584-9969 is the official number used by our customer service team. We kindly ask that you save this number to ensure you receive all necessary communications.
Do NOT Reply "STOP"
Please do not reply with "STOP." Doing so will automatically block all future text messages and emails from our system, which may prevent you from receiving important updates. This could delay your progress and result in your account becoming inactive.
If you have already replied "STOP" to this number, please text a message back to 312-584-9969 to start back receiving updates & notifications via email & text.
If you ever get a new number or prefer us to send messages to a different number, please notify us at [email protected] with your First & Last Name and new number so we can update your contact information in our system to avoid any interruptions in service. This also applies for a new email.
Canceling Your Credit Monitoring Service
If you choose not to continue your monthly credit monitoring subscription, that is entirely your right. However, please understand that active credit monitoring is required for us to access your credit reports and continue working on your profile.
Once monitoring is canceled, your file is automatically paused. Due to the cancellation we will no longer be able to provide round results or perform any additional work on your account. This does not mean that no results exist — it simply means we no longer have access to your credit reports to review or communicate updates.
After 60 days of inactivity, you will be removed from our active client roster & the credit repair process is terminated. Any work completed up to that point will be considered final. No refunds will be issued, as services were rendered and further progress was prevented by the client. This policy is clearly disclosed in our refund policy, and every client was acknowledged about the $33 monthly fee when they completed the onboarding form.
Important — Do NOT Dispute the Charge
Please do not dispute the charge with your bank, request a chargeback against the credit monitoring company, or have your bank block the credit monitoring company from being able to charge your card.
When this happens it creates financial penalties for the provider. That company already deposited that money into THEIR BANK ACCOUNT. When u DISPUTE it, now that money is being taken away from that company for fees you LEGALLY AGREED TO. BY LAW now that company can come after you. Chargebacks may also expose you to potential collection activity.
If you wish to cancel properly, please follow these steps instead:
- Log into your mobile app or contact the credit monitoring company's customer service directly to cancel your subscription.
- Text 312-584-9969 and let us know you no longer want to move forward.
Thank you for your cooperation and understanding.
Canceling Your Credit Repair Service
The average client goes through a minimum 4-7 rounds of credit repair before they have completed their program. Each round of results takes 45 days (1 and a half months) for a new update. These 4-7 rounds as a whole range between 6-9 months & sometimes up to 1 year for more severe cases.
By law we have to give the credit bureaus that time frame to view a client's file and validate the debt/inaccuracies! Please be patient with our team while we get each client results. If additional rounds are needed we will provide them at no extra charge.
Never judge a whole process based off 1 or 2 rounds. Just like a basketball game is 4 quarters — if something takes 3 or more rounds that's perfectly normal. It's apart of the process. You can expect certain rounds & sometimes back-to-back rounds with no change. Believe it or not it actually helps with getting deletions because it helps us catch the credit reporting agencies & debt collectors in violation even more than they already were.
💯 100% Money-Back Guarantee
If a client completes four (4) FULL ROUNDS of disputes as outlined in their service plan and receives zero (0) deletions, a 100% refund of the Service charge paid for credit repair only will be issued. (This does not include the $33/month for your credit monitoring.) This guarantee applies only when all program requirements and guidelines have been fully followed by the client.
We are committed to providing professional, compliant, and results-driven credit services. Because credit improvement is a process that requires time, consistency, and client cooperation, the following refund policy applies to all clients.
If you choose to stop services before completion, that is your right; however, no refund will be issued if you do not allow us to complete a minimum 4 rounds of the agreed-upon process due to you changing your mind. I shall only be responsible for a refund if I DID NOT DO MY JOB. Not because someone stopped me from doing my job which is get you DELETIONS.
How To Cancel:
Whenever you wish to stop the process just simply text 312-584-9969 with your first and last name and let us know that you no longer wish to move forward with the process and that you will take it from here. We will then stop the process for you immediately and whatever work that has been done up to that point will be considered final!
Credit Monitoring Reactivation Notice
From time to time, your credit monitoring account may require reactivation for security purposes. Please understand that this does not necessarily indicate a missed or incomplete monthly payment. In most cases, it simply means that you need to verify the payment method on file, which may include re-entering your card's CVV code.
When this occurs, it temporarily delays our ability to access your credit report, which can impact the progress of your file.
Your Privacy Is Protected
Please note that for security and privacy reasons, we do not have access to your card information and will never request it from you. Therefore, we are unable to complete this verification on your behalf.
How To Resolve It
- Log into your credit monitoring account
- Confirm your payment method on file
- Complete any required verification steps (e.g. re-enter your CVV code)
- Notify us once it has been resolved so we can resume work on your profile
Please be advised that we will not continue to follow up on this issue without confirmation from you that it has been resolved.
Expired Driver's License Or State ID
This Is Pretty Self Explanatory
Please understand that every time dispute letters are sent, we must verify your identity. Which means that your Driver's License Or State ID along with your MOST RECENT Proof of Address is required for every round. If your ID or License were to ever expire, my support team will request an updated version and if it is not provided, I cannot proceed with the next round of disputes.
Here's what we need from you:
- A clear photo or scanned copy of your Driver's License or State ID (must be valid and not expired). If No ID, Passports Are Accepted!
- A clear copy of your Social Security Card (or any official document showing your full SSN). If no Social Security card, you can use a Check Stub, W2, Or Tax Return as long as the full Social is visible.
Please upload in your client portal or send the following at your earliest convenience to 312-584-9969 or email [email protected] as we will no longer check on this for you until notified. Thanks again for trusting us on your credit journey!
If you receive an email or text message regarding an issue, it is not sent without cause and is not a system error.
In most cases, either:
- Our team was not notified that the issue has been handled, or
- The issue has resurfaced and requires immediate attention
- The login information provided is invalid
- The submitted documentation is outdated or invalid
That said — these notifications should NEVER be ignored.
Before responding with "I've already completed this," please take a moment to verify first, and provide a screenshot as proof if you believe the issue has already been resolved.
Confirm all documents are clear, dates are accurate, and all submitted documents are up to date.
Thank You,
Support Team — Wealthy Intention
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about the credit repair process and what to expect
Why Isn't My Credit Score Showing For All 3 Bureaus?
Usually this happens when an old address gets deleted. Your old accounts were attached to that address so now since no old or current accounts are attached to your current address there is nothing to show on your credit report. But no worries this is an easy fix.
Step 1: MFSN USERS ONLY
(888) 548-2008 (Press Option 2)
Call Customer Service to let them know about the issue. They may mention an old address that they had on file. You can let them know that address is incorrect and provide them with your current address. Once you verify your CURRENT ADDRESS they should be able to resolve it. If not, please view step 2.
Step 1: IDIQ USERS ONLY
(877) 875-4347 (Press Option 2)
Call Customer Service to let them know about the issue. They may mention an old address that they had on file. You can let them know that address is incorrect and provide them with your current address. Once you verify your CURRENT ADDRESS they should be able to resolve it. If not, please view step 2.
STEP 2: Call The Bureaus Directly
This step is FOR BOTH IDIQ & MFSN users BUT ONLY if step one didn't work.
You only need to call for whichever bureau is missing. So if your reports and scores aren't showing for both Equifax & Transunion, then you will call both and give them both the same exact rundown.
- Transunion: 800-916-8800
- Equifax: 800-685-1111
- Experian: 888-397-3742
Give them a call (Press 0 To Get To A Live Person):
"I sent some disputes for my credit and I received something that said I couldn't be verified."
Wait for a response and make sure to update all your information.
"I would like to remove any information that I did not mention due to it being inaccurate. My Only Name Is... My Only Address Is... My Only DOB Is..."
"Can we please get this fixed so that they can furnish my credit report because it's holding me back from getting approved from housing which is a violation of my consumer right."
Ask how long it will take before your credit report will show up. They may ask you to send them a "cover letter". Please make sure your State ID or Driver's License is updated with your current address BEFORE sending out this cover letter.
STEP 3: Cover Letter (only if asked to provide)
You only need to send a cover letter for whichever bureau is missing. If missing for two, send two separate letters.
Addresses:
- Equifax: P.O. Box 740256, Atlanta, GA 30374
- Experian: P.O. Box 4500, Allen, TX 75013
- TransUnion: P.O. Box 2000, Chester, PA 19016
Date: __________
To Whom It May Concern,
I am writing to verify my identity so that my [Bureau Name] credit report and score can be released and made available.
My information is as follows:
Full Name: __________________________
Date of Birth: ______________________
Last 4 of SSN: ______________________
Current Address: ___________________
City, State, Zip: ___________________
Phone Number: _____________________
I have enclosed copies of my government-issued photo ID and proof of address for verification. Please process my identity verification as soon as possible so my credit file can be properly displayed.
Sincerely,
________________________ (Signature)
________________________ (Printed Name)
Documents to Include (VERY IMPORTANT):
- ✅ Copy of Driver's license or state ID (cannot be expired)
- ✅ Proof of address (utility bill, bank statement, or lease — dated within 60 days)
After you make the phone calls to customer service or send the cover letters, your credit reports and scores should reappear by your next credit report at the latest. Sometimes it will appear the next day.
How To Read Your Credit Report
A credit report is a detailed record of your credit history and financial behavior. It shows lenders, banks, and creditors how you have managed borrowed money over time.
In the United States, credit reports are maintained by the three major credit bureaus: Equifax, Experian, Transunion
These companies collect information from lenders, credit card companies, and collection agencies to build your report.
What Information Is On a Credit Report
This section identifies you. It may include:
- Full name and any previous names used
- Current and previous addresses
- Social Security number (partially masked)
- Date of birth
- Employers (past and present)
What you want to see
Ideally your report should display: one name, one current address, one date of birth, one current employer.
Multiple variations can create inconsistencies that allow negative accounts to remain linked. Contact bureaus directly to correct:
- Equifax — 800-685-1111
- Experian — 888-397-3742
- TransUnion — 800-916-8800
Keep your ID updated with your current address — bureaus may keep old addresses accurate if your ID still shows them.
It's your credit grade — a number that tells lenders how risky or reliable you are.
Risk Factors are the key reasons why your credit score is not higher.
👉 In simple terms: They tell you what's hurting your credit the most right now. They show exactly what to fix and give insight into how lenders view your profile.
The Summary is a quick overview of your entire credit profile.
👉 In simple terms: It's a snapshot that breaks down everything on your credit report at a glance. ( Soft Pulls & Pre-Approvals )
Account History is a detailed record of how an account has been managed over time — especially your payment behavior month by month.
👉 In simple terms: It shows your track record for all accounts both open and closed.
What Each Field Means:
| Field | Definition | Example | ACTUAL |
|---|---|---|---|
| Account #: | Unique identifier assigned by the creditor. May show partially masked. | Full: 1234567890 • Report: XXXXXX7890 | 31** |
| Account Type: | General category of the account. | Revolving, Installment, Open Credit | Revolving |
| Account Type - Detail: | More specific account description. | 💳 Credit Cards: Bank, Retail, Secured 🚗 Loans: Auto, Personal, Student, Mortgage | Credit Card |
| Bureau Code: | Your role on this account. | Individual, Authorized User, Joint, Co-Signer | Individual |
| Account Status: | Open or closed, positive or negative. | Open, Closed | Open |
| Monthly Payment: | Min amount required monthly to stay in good standing. | Balance: $2,000 • Min: $60 📘 Pay $60 to avoid late | $20.00 |
| Date Opened: | Exact date account was created. | Opened Feb 1, 2024 📘 Active 2+ years | 02/01/2024 |
| Balance: | Total amount currently owed. | $756.00 | $756.00 |
| No. of Months (terms): | Total repayment period agreed. 0 for revolving accounts. | 0 | 0 |
| High Credit: | Most ever spent on card, or original loan value. | Limit: $5,000 • Most used: $3,200 📘 High Credit = $3,200 | $4,787.00 |
| Credit Limit: | Max amount lender allows you to borrow. | Limit: $5,000 • Balance: $1,500 📘 $3,500 still available | $11,100.00 |
| Past Due: | Amount owed that should already be paid. $0.00 is good. | Payment: $150 • Missed 2 months 📘 Past Due = $300 | $0.00 |
| Payment Status: | Current condition of account and payment behavior. | Current, Collection/Charge-Off | Current |
| Last Reported: | Most recent date creditor updated the bureaus. | Last Reported: 02/15/2026 | 02/06/2026 |
| Comments: | Notes added by creditor or bureau with extra details. | "In collections" ❗ "Settled for less" ⚠ | - |
| Date Last Active: | Last time account was used or had movement. | Used Jan 10, 2026 📘 Last Active = 01/10/2026 | 02/01/2026 |
| Date of Last Payment | Last time you actually made a payment. | Payment Feb 5, 2026 📘 Last Payment = 02/05/2026 | 02/01/2026 |
This is one of the most important parts of the report. It shows:
- On-time payments
- Late payments (30, 60, 90, 120 days late)
- Collections, Charge-offs or repossessions
Your payment history heavily influences your credit score.
Legend:
Account Inquiries are records of who has accessed your credit report and when.
👉 In simple terms: They show who checked your credit and why.
- Hard inquiries – when you apply for credit (can affect score)
- Soft inquiries – background checks or checking your own credit (no impact)
Some serious financial events may appear here, such as:
- Bankruptcies
- Tax liens
- Civil judgments (less common now)
Creditor's Contact Information provides the details of the company that owns or reports the account.
👉 In simple terms: It tells you who to contact about that account.
How Does The Process Work / What's Included?
- We send out customized letters to the credit bureaus to challenge for removal of negative items off your file and clean up your report. Things like charge-offs, collections, late payments, inquiries, derogatory, evictions and even repossessions.
- You will Be required to pay $33/month To monitor your Credit until we're done with your profile. It's like a credit karma but it's more accurate and shows everything we need to see.
- Each round takes 45 days for updates and results! (approximately one and a half months) You will have access to your own personal portal to track the progress as we go! 24/7 access!
Step 1: Credit Repair
My primary responsibility is to dispute inaccurate, unverifiable, and negative items on your credit report. That is the service you are paying for.
Step 2: Credit Growth
In addition, I provide all clients with guidance on how to properly build and maintain their credit scores by giving them a TO DO LIST.
Step 3: Profile Building
I also coach clients on how to develop a strong credit profile and assist with applying for credit cards when the timing is appropriate. THIS IS ALSO INCORPORATED WITHIN THE TO DO LIST.
Step 4 : Execution
This is when I assist clients who are ready to pursue business funding or apply for major financing such as a home or vehicle. While this level of involvement is not required of me, I choose to provide it because I genuinely care about my clients' long-term success.
It's important to understand that a 750 credit score alone does not automatically mean you have GOOD CREDIT. True credit strength consists of:
- A good score (typically 720+),
- A clean credit report, and
- A strong overall credit profile.
Step 5: LLC Setup/ Business Funding ( BONUS )
Regarding business credit, I educate clients on how to properly set up an LLC, establish relationships with banks, and position themselves to qualify for business funding. My goal is to teach clients how to apply independently. However, if you choose to have me assist directly with applications, I charge a 10% success fee for based on the approved amount.
I also work with relationship managers at major institutions, including Chase, U.S. Bank, PNC Bank, Truist, Citizens Bank, the SBA, and American Express. These relationship managers are the individuals who actually review and approve applications, and I refer my clients directly to them. Additionally, I offer tradelines & shelf corporations, which function similarly to tradelines but for an LLC.
All Of this is included but understand what you are paying for is CREDIT REPAIR—the process of cleaning and correcting your CREDIT REPORT. When it comes to creditworthiness, your credit report is what gets you approved—not your credit score.
When Will I Start Seeing Deletions & How Long Does Credit Repair Take?
I can't give a specific timeframe for a few reasons:
- Often times clients hold themselves back with the process by not keeping their credit monitoring up to date.
- They don't check their emails for instructions and they don't send in their most recent proof of address every month — and we need that in order to dispute on your behalf.
If you look at the screenshot above, you'll see that this client started with 23 negative items and we actually got 25 negative items deleted. Which means 2 additional negative items appeared after he started, and we got those removed as well — resulting in a completely clean credit report.
If you pay attention to the dates on the right-hand side, you'll see this client started Round 1 on 1-21-25 and Round 2 on 3-23-25. However, the next round did not begin until 10-7-25. From the outside looking in, it may appear that no work was done for 8 months, but that is not the case.
In most situations, delays like this happen because the client either did not maintain their credit monitoring subscription (which prevents me from accessing your credit report), or the client failed to submit an updated Proof of Address (POA) every single month.
Please understand, every time dispute letters are sent, we must verify your identity. Your Proof of Address is required for every round, and if it is not provided, I cannot proceed with the next round of disputes.
These two things alone can prolong a client's results for months or even up to a year — which would not be my fault as long as I send out emails and texts notifying them. So his total timeframe took a total of 10 months. 10 months, although it could have potentially been significantly shorter without delays.
On top of that, the credit repair timeline varies from person to person, depending on the number and type of negative items on the credit report.
Success Stories:
• Fastest deletion: Eviction removed in just 14 days
• Quickest full clean-up: 88 total negative items cleared within 45 days
That said, results like these are possible but not typical and cannot be guaranteed for every client — no one in this industry can honestly make such a promise. If they do, they're telling you what you want to hear so you feel comfortable enough to give them your money because they know you're in a rush & most likely desperate.
Realistic Expectations:
On average, credit repair takes 6 to 9 months, and in more severe cases, it can take up to a year.
I believe in full transparency: credit repair should take as long as it needs to take. Anyone guaranteeing complete results in 30–60 days is not being realistic. The average client goes through 4–7 rounds of disputes. If it were that simple, multiple rounds of disputes wouldn't even exist.
Unfortunately, many companies lie for sales, which gives credit specialists a bad reputation. My approach is different — I prefer honesty over hype. MY NAME IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN YOUR MONEY! I will let anyone walk before I tell them what they want to hear. It's not about what you want — it's about how the process actually works. Results take time, but they do come. Will it take the full 6–9 months, or even a year? Not necessarily, but you should be prepared for that timeframe.
Each dispute round lasts approximately 45 days, and after every round, you will receive a detailed PDF update outlining any deletions or changes that occurred.
See Real Results:
If you click this link you can look at the credit scores and deletions for some of my clients and kind of do the math on how long it took — do with that what you will. Also, a lot of the shares are from some of my real clients.
www.TheCreditDaddy.com/results
Why Haven't I Received Any Updates?
I would like to take a moment to clarify how updates are provided throughout the credit improvement process.
First, it is important to understand that not receiving a formal update from us does not necessarily mean there has been no progress. Many clients receive updates directly through creditor notifications, emails, mailed correspondence, or alerts from their credit monitoring service indicating deletions or changes. In addition, you also have access to your client portal, where updates may be reflected. All of these notifications are considered valid updates.
That said, we intentionally provide formal PDF updates because they are more professional, easier to review, and help clients feel confident and informed about their progress.
Misconceptions
Please understand that an update is strictly just an update. It does not guarantee a score increase every round or that something will be deleted every round. You can expect certain rounds—and sometimes back-to-back rounds—with no change, and that is completely normal and part of the process.
Believe it or not, this actually helps increase your chances of deletions, as it Helps Us Catch The Credit Reporting Agencies & Debt Collectors Up In Violation Even More Than They Already Were.
Update Timeline
Each dispute round operates on a 45-day cycle (approximately one and a half months). Updates are scheduled according to this timeline and are dependent on all required documentation and access being current and accurate.
Phase One: Proof Of Identity
The first step before any update can be issued is confirming that we have two forms of Identification on file for you. One being documentation that displays your FULL SSN, and the other being either a valid State ID or Driver's License.
Here's what we need from you:
- A clear photo or scanned copy of your Driver's License or State ID (must be valid and not expired). If no ID, passports are accepted.
- A clear copy of your Social Security Card (or any official document showing your FULL SSN). If no Social Security card, you may use a check stub, W-2, or tax return, as long as the full SSN is visible.
Please understand that every time dispute letters are sent, your identity must be verified. This means your Driver's License or State ID is required for every round. If your ID or License expires, my support team will request an updated version, and if it is not provided, we cannot proceed with the next round of disputes.
Phase Two: Proof of Address (POA)
The 2nd step before any update can be issued is confirming that we have a current Proof of Address (POA) on file. Whenever we request your most recent Proof of Address (POA), we are not asking whether you have moved from your current residence. We understand that your address may remain the same.
What we are specifically requesting is updated documentation that verifies you are currently residing at that address.
There are ONLY Three (3) Acceptable Documents, and we only need ONE out of the three (please DO NOT send anything other than one of these).
- A rental or lease agreement
- A utility bill
- A bank statement
If you don't have your own apartment, obviously you won't have a utility bill or rental agreement. THAT IS COMPLETELY FINE. In your case, you will use your bank statement for the proof of address.
Regarding bank statements, all financial institutions are accepted. This includes, but is not limited to, Chime, Cash App, Apple Pay, Varo, credit card statements, and any major traditional bank.
To be valid, the document must:
- Display your full first and last name (not a business name or nickname)
- Show your complete residential address
- Be dated within the last 60 days
Whenever sending or uploading documents into your portal PLEASE MAKE SURE ALL DOCUMENTS ARE CLEAR:
- Not Too Light Or Too Dark
- No Blurry Photos Or Screenshots
- No shadows blocking words in the documents
- Pictures MUST BE FULL PAGE (Meaning take it out of the mail and unfold it)
- Screenshots Must Also Be FULL PAGE (meaning MAKE SURE ALL 4 CORNERS ARE IN THE PIC)
These things can cause your docs to come back as NON VERIFIABLE—which can prolong you getting fast and efficient results.
If the document is older than 60 days, it is considered outdated and cannot be used. For example, if it is currently December and the document on file is from September or October, it is no longer valid. For this reason, we strongly recommend submitting a new POA every month as soon as it becomes available. Utility bills and bank statements are often delayed, and by the time the next update cycle arrives, a previously submitted document may already be expired. This can cause unnecessary delays for both you and our team.
If you have a rental or lease agreement, that is ideal, as it typically remains valid for an extended period and eliminates the need for monthly submissions.
If your POA is missing or outdated at the time an update is scheduled, we will contact you via email and text message and send up to three reminders. If the issue is not resolved, the process CANNOT move forward.
Phase Three: Credit Monitoring Access
Once the POA is confirmed, the next requirement is accurate and up-to-date credit monitoring access.
Common issues at this stage include:
- Incorrect login credentials
- An outdated credit report
- Required password changes initiated by the monitoring service for security reasons
If we are unable to access your credit report, we cannot provide an update.
It is important to understand the difference between active and updated credit monitoring:
- Paying the monthly fee keeps the account active
- Logging in and refreshing the report ensures it is updated
When you log into your credit monitoring account, the report will display a "last updated" date. That date must reflect the current month. For Example: Let's say the current month is December. If the report is showing a prior month (for example, September, October, Or November), it will be considered outdated & cannot be used to provide a current update. I can't tell you what's going on in June if I'm looking at a report from March.
While we can request an update on your behalf if your monitoring is active, we cannot initiate updates that would result in unauthorized charges. If your monitoring payment has lapsed, updating the report would trigger a charge, and we will not proceed without your authorization.
Once a client is scheduled to receive a PDF update, my team will then begin Phases 1 & 2. If my team has any issues such as mentioned before, step 1 would be to contact you via email or text. From there we will wait for your confirmation and we will no longer check on that issue for you — it will be 100% YOUR DUTY to notify us once the issue has been handled so that we can resume the process.
Best Practices to Avoid Delays:
To ensure consistent progress, we recommend the following:
- Submit your most recent Proof of Address every month
- Log into your credit monitoring account monthly to confirm:
- The report is updated
- Your login credentials work
- No password reset is required
If these 3 are consistently maintained, everything else falls on us. Don't let it be your fault we couldn't successfully do our job.
⚠️ Hard Truth:
You can't pay for credit repair then:
- Ignore or skim through instructions
- Stop responding
- Ignore emails and text messages
- Keep adding new inquiries, or late payments
- Skip credit building
Then come back 3 months later saying you haven't heard anything, seen any changes, requesting a refund, & proceed to blame my company or the process.
Credit repair works only when WE work.
I'm not a miracle worker, I'm a strategist. You have to do your part as well. Please take your credit seriously—it represents your financial credibility.
☎ Customer Service Number: 312-584-9969
📧 Customer Service Email: [email protected]
Receiving The Same Email & Text From My Support Team
Primary Issues That Delay Results
- • Outdated credit monitoring reports
- • Inaccessible or incorrect credit monitoring login credentials
- • Missing or invalid Proof of Address (POA) documentation
- • Full or inaccessible email inbox (clean up space or buy more storage if needed)
- • Phone settings that block or silence unknown numbers. Please save 312-584-9969 in your contacts to ensure uninterrupted communication.
These are the primary issues that delay results for most clients. By proactively managing the items listed above, you set yourself up for a smooth and successful experience.
Whenever an issue arises—such as a (POA) matter or a login-issue concern—you are tagged within our system. Once tagged, automated messages with clear instructions are sent to you via email & text every 10 business days. You will no longer receive these notifications after a maximum of three reminders are issued, or until the issue is resolved—whichever occurs first.
These reminders are simply a courtesy to ensure you don't forget or nothing is overlooked, as we understand that schedules can be busy.
If you receive an email or text message regarding any of the items above, it is not sent without cause and is not a system error.
In most cases, either:
- • Our team was not updated that the issue has been handled, or
- • The issue has resurfaced and requires immediate attention.
- • The login information provided were invalid.
- • The submitted documentation is invalid
These notifications should NEVER be ignored.
Before responding with "I've already completed this," please take a moment to verify first:
- Log directly into your credit monitoring account to confirm the report is current
- Confirm all dates on submitted documents are accurate and up to date
Verification ensures accuracy, prevents delays, and keeps your account active and progressing as intended. Notify 312-584-9969 whenever you have taken care of an issue.
Where Can I Find My Client Portal
Within 4 Business Days After Getting Started my support team should have sent you a email for you to access your portal. The sole purpose of your client portal is to track your own progress and upload documents when necessary. Search for TRACK YOUR RESULTS or CLIENT PORTAL LOGIN in your email and spam. If you do not see the email with the username and password for your online client portal please text my team to make sure it gets resent out. (312) 584-9969
Important Notice: Anytime you upload any documents inside your portal you must notify us to check it at 312-584-9969 or [email protected]
Log into your portal directly on the website: https://secure.scorexer.com/Portal/login.jsp
As your credit journey continues you can expect phone calls, emails or mail from: the original creditors of whoever you have done business with, Various Debt collectors, Credit reporting agencies such as Transunion Equifax And Experian. YOU DO NOT have to answer any calls or respond to any emails or mail. We will notify you via text or email if there is anything you need to do on your end. Any mail or emails you receive you can upload them inside of your portal. Also if you feel like you may have something that may help us with the process. Such as; proof you or your insurance company paid off certain accounts that are in collections, proof that you were a victim of identity theft like a police report. Screenshots of messages, emails, or letters that you may have gotten in the mail that is important to your situation; FEEL FREE TO UPLOAD THEM INTO YOUR PORTAL. When It Comes To The Password For Your Client Portal. You Are Allowed To Change Your Password To Whatever You Want. Also You Can Upload Documents Here.
I Received This Letter In The Mail?
⚠️ Important Notice: Anytime you upload any documents inside your portal you must notify us to check it at 312-584-9969 or [email protected]. We only check the client portal when notified!!
What Does This Mean?
While restoring your credit, you will receive many updates from the credit bureaus. Bureaus send these out hoping that you will stop your dispute efforts because they are compensated for reporting negative accounts and benefit from keeping them on file longer. No need to be worried about this. You are not required to respond to any letters you receive. Simply take a photo of the correspondence and upload it to your client portal.
These responses are typically stalling tactics. Credit bureaus are required to respond within 30 days, or the item must be removed from your credit report. As a result, they often issue a response stating that the account is "under investigation" to stall the process. In many cases, this delays deletion.
It is also common for them to claim they cannot verify your identity, that an account has been verified, or that a request was denied. These responses are often intended to stall the deletion & discourage consumers who are unsure of the next steps, hoping that you stop the credit repair process. We know how to respond to these type of updates.
We will send a violation letter as any delay in the processing of a consumer's letters is a violation of 15 U.S. Code § 1681i, which sets forth the procedures in which a Consumer Reporting Agency must investigate a consumer's reasonable dispute. Any such delay will be considered willful disregard of our rights as a consumer and will be forwarded to an attorney for litigation purposes.
There is no such exception that would legally allow any bureaus to delay the processing of a consumer's letter based on an unfounded assumption that assistance from a third party may exist.
Here are some examples of these letters:
☎ Customer Service Number: 312-584-9969
📧 Customer Service Email: [email protected]
Where To Upload Documents
⚠️ Important Notice: Anytime you upload any documents inside your portal you must notify us to check it at 312-584-9969 or [email protected]. We only check the client portal when notified!!
As your credit journey continues you can expect phone calls, emails or mail from:
- The original creditors of whoever you have done business with
- Various Debt collectors
- Credit reporting agencies such as Transunion, Equifax, And Experian
YOU DO NOT have to answer any calls or respond to any emails or mail. We will notify you via text or email if there is anything you need to do on your end. Any mail or emails you receive you can upload them inside of your portal.
Also if you feel like you may have something that may help us with the process. Such as; proof you or your insurance company paid off certain accounts that are in collections, proof that you were a victim of identity theft like a police report. Screenshots of messages, emails, or letters that you may have gotten in the mail that is important to your situation; FEEL FREE TO UPLOAD THEM INTO YOUR PORTAL.
When It Comes To The Password For Your Client Portal. You Are Allowed To Change Your Password To Whatever You Want. Also You Can Upload Documents Here.
Whenever uploading something into your portal PLEASE MAKE SURE ALL DOCUMENTS ARE CLEAR:
- Not Too Light Or Too Dark
- No Blurry Photos Or Screenshots
- No shadows blocking words in the documents
- Pictures MUST BE FULL PAGE (Meaning Take it out of the mail and unfold it)
- Screenshots Must Also Be FULL PAGE (meaning MAKE SURE ALL 4 CORNERS ARE IN THE PIC)
These things can cause your docs to come back as NON VERIFIABLE which can prolong you getting fast and efficient results.
Any mail you receive - letters from creditors, debt validation notices, credit bureau results - can be uploaded directly inside your portal.
Upload it and notify us at (312) 584-9969.
🚨 IMPORTANT: When Can I Start Applying For Things? / Letters I Got In The Mail
YOU SHOULD NOT BE APPLYING FOR ANYTHING WHILE YOU STILL HAVE NEGATIVE ITEMS ON YOUR REPORT.
Not until the highlighted subjects reach the number 0, and you have 2 or less inquiries for Equifax, Experian, & Transunion. (If you have more than 2 inquiries across 3 bureaus, it's fine as long as they are attached to OPEN ACCOUNTS and are older than 6 months.)
But realistically, your credit report summary should look like this:
I understand a lot of you may have goals & trust me, it's in my best interest that you hit those goals. But if I have to be honest, the timeframe most of you give yourself to hit those goals are unrealistic to begin with.
Let's Be Real:
- Your credit score is SHOT
- You don't have good payment history
- You're in crazy debt
- You have multiple negative items on your credit report
- You have no positive accounts showing proof that you can pay anything consistently
- But yet you want years worth of damage cleaned up in a short period of time
Does This Mean I Won't Try To Help You Hit The Goal? Absolutely Not. But If You're Not Able To Get Approved For Something In A Short Timeframe I Don't Need You Being Mad Or Discouraged Because You Didn't Give Yourself The Proper Time To Begin With. Please understand it's not about WHAT YOU WANT, it's About HOW IT WORKS. At The End Of The Day 10%, 30%, 50%, Is Better Than 0% — WE'LL GET THERE IN DUE TIME 🤝🏾
While getting credit repair I don't recommend applying for anything as new inquiries can affect your score negatively and can hold you back. I am also not required to delete any new inquiries. You will be able to apply for whatever it is you want once everything is deleted from your report — as long as you did your TO DO LIST it's your time to shine!
In Conclusion — Meet These Qualifications BEFORE You Apply For Anything:
- ✓ Credit Score MUST BE a minimum 680, but preferably 720+
- ✓ Credit Card Utilization Under 10%
- ✓ 0 Negative Derogatory Accounts
- ✓ 0 Delinquent Accounts (Late Payments)
- ✓ 2 Or Less Inquiries
💡 Quick Tip: How To Avoid Unnecessary Inquiries
Whenever you want to apply for something, do these 5 steps:
Step 1 — Find out the Minimum Credit Score Required.
For a car, the real recommended score is 720+ but a minimum 680 if you want a decent interest rate. Anything below that and you don't qualify to apply yet — but a tradeline could help raise the score faster. (Yes I have them — just reach out.)
Step 2 — Find Out What Do They REALLY CARE ABOUT.
Call and find out what they care about. For a house, any negative items can get you denied instantly. For an apartment, the company may only care about rental history. If you have any red flags 🚩 they mention, avoid applying and wasting an inquiry.
Step 3 — Make sure you have verifiable income.
Tax returns, check stubs, bank statements, W2, 1099 — it's a lot easier to get approved when you can prove you can afford it.
Step 4 — Find out WHO THEY PULL FROM.
This is so clutch! Example: if a repo was deleted from Transunion but still on Experian & Equifax, you can focus on getting an auto loan from a bank that pulls Transunion like Navy Federal. This concept applies to credit cards, loans, apartments — doesn't matter.
Step 5 — GO CHECK IT OUT FIRST.
If applying for a house, apartment, or car — go see it in person first. Applying for something you haven't seen is insane. If a company tells you to apply before viewing, 9/10 it's a scam or they're hiding something.
⚠️ While in active credit repair, do NOT apply for anything. New inquiries can negatively affect your score and hold you back. We are also not required to delete any new inquiries added during your service.
Should I Close Credit Card Accounts I Don't Use?
Short Answer: Usually NO — Don't Close Them
❌ Why You Usually Should NOT Close Unused Credit Cards
Closing a credit card can hurt your credit, even if you never use it.
1️⃣ It Can Increase Your Utilization (30% of your score)
Credit utilization = balances ÷ total available credit.
Example:
- You have $10,000 total credit
- You're using $1,000 → 10% utilization (GOOD)
- You close a $5,000 card → now you have $5,000 total credit
- Same $1,000 balance → 20% utilization (WORSE)
👉 Score can drop without you doing anything wrong.
2️⃣ It Can Lower Your Average Credit Age (15% of your score)
Older accounts help your profile.
- Closing an old card can shorten your credit history
- Especially harmful if it's one of your first cards
3️⃣ Banks & Lenders Like to See Available Credit
Banks prefer:
- Low usage
- High limits
- Accounts in good standing
Unused cards = strength, not weakness.
✅ When It DOES Make Sense to Close a Card
You might consider closing a card if:
- It has a high annual fee and no real benefit
- It tempts you to overspend
- You've already paid it off and replaced it with better cards
- It's a predatory card with terrible terms (low limit, high fees)
💡 Pro Tip: Before closing, ask the bank to:
- Waive the annual fee, or
- Product-change the card to a no-fee version (essentially upgrading to a better card but keeping your history)
🧠 Best Practice — What I Recommend to Clients
- Keep unused cards open
- Use them once every 3–6 months
- Put a small charge on it (Netflix, phone bill, gas, coffee)
- Pay it off before the statement date
This keeps the account active without increasing utilization.
In Conclusion: Avoid Closing Accounts.
- A credit card you don't use is not hurting you.
- A credit card you close can potentially hurt you.
Would It Be Better To Just Pay My Collections Off?
Short Answer: Only If The Creditor Offers A Pay-For-Delete. If So — Yes. But If Not — NO, Not Until The Collection Is Deleted. Here's Why:
You DO NOT Owe The Debt Collector!
9/10 If You Have A Collection Your Information Has Been Passed On To A 3rd Party Debt Collector That You NEVER Did Business With So Therefore You DO NOT OWE THEM !!
Why Pay A Company You Don't Owe? Even If It Were The Original Creditor — Paying Them DOES NOT REMOVE IT FROM YOUR CREDIT REPORT.
If You Fall For That Letter Saying Pay 30-40% Off And We Will "SETTLE" This For You — It Will Still Be On Your Credit Report As A Paid Collection, SETTLED FOR LESS THAN FULL BALANCE. Which Is Still A Negative Account And DOES NOT Help You.
Not Only Were You Already Behind 120-180 Days But When You Finally Decided To Pay Them, They Didn't Even Get All Of Their Money? It Doesn't Look Good.
If You Pay Them IN FULL It Will Still Show Up As A PAID COLLECTION Which Is Still A Negative Account And DOES NOT Help You.
But What's The Problem If I Paid It?
Short Answer: Paying A Collection DOES NOT HELP YOUR CREDIBILITY.
Example: I Go To Jail For Stealing Money Out Of Walmart's Register. So I Do My Time For It. When I Get Out Of Jail, I Apply To Work For Chase Bank — Do You Think They Will Hire Me? I Can't Say "BUT I WENT TO JAIL FOR IT" Because Something Like That Should've Never Happened To Begin With. No Difference Here. How The Banks Will Look At You Is: If you defaulted on your agreement several times already, what makes this time different? Would You Continuously Lend Money To Someone Who Never Pays Back On Time?
The Smart Approach — It's Just WHEN You Settle It
• If You're Ever Behind On an OPEN ACCOUNT — Yes, it is safe to get on a payment plan to pay it down.
• But if that account has ALREADY BEEN CLOSED & SENT TO COLLECTIONS — It's better to get it removed FIRST & Then Settle The Debt.
Even if you have to send them $20/month — I doubt they respond saying they no longer want the money. But if you pay them first, you will find out the hard way that YOU STILL NEED TO GET IT DELETED.
Pay-For-Delete
The only time paying a collection before getting it removed makes sense is if the company offers a PAY FOR DELETE — a negotiated agreement where you pay (in full or a settlement) in exchange for the creditor completely removing the negative account from your credit report — not just marking it "paid."
Important Things To Know:
- 1. It's not automatic — Creditors are not required by law to do Pay-For-Delete. It's voluntary.
- 2. Always get it in WRITING FIRST — If a company won't send you written confirmation before receiving payment, TRUST ME IT'S A BLUFF. Never send payment until you have written confirmation they will delete the account INDEFINITELY.
- 3. Works best with collection agencies — Original creditors (Capital One, Chase, etc.) rarely agree, but third-party collectors often will.
- 4. You can usually settle for less — Many accept 30%–60% of the balance for a PFD.
Simple Pay-For-Delete Script:
"Hello, I'm calling regarding account #____.
I'm willing to settle this balance today if you agree to delete the tradeline indefinitely from all credit bureaus upon payment. If you agree, please send written confirmation by email or mail before I submit payment."
Fun Fact: Statute of Limitations
Every state has a statute of limitation on when they can collect a debt. Each state sets different time limits for different categories of debt. The clock doesn't run the same for everything.
What Starts the Clock?
The statute of limitation clock usually starts at the Date of First Delinquency (DOFD) or date of last payment (varies by state & debt type).
⚠️ Any of the following can RESET the clock:
- Making a small payment
- Acknowledging the debt in writing
- Entering a payment agreement
A lot of times consumers don't realize they're almost scott-free of paying a debt, and when creditors convince you to get on a payment plan and you make that first small payment — THE CLOCK STARTS OVER.
This is why clients should NEVER casually agree to pay old debt without advice. If You Pay Them It Will Be Harder To Get Removed Because Now You Look Guilty. Why Would Anyone Pay A Debt That Doesn't Belong To Them?
Also many times you might receive letters & emails threatening to garnish your check or sue. It's all a bluff to scare you into paying.
Can Something Come Back After Being Deleted?
Important Understanding
CREDIT REPAIR DOES NOT DELETE THE DEBT! — it only removes inaccurate, unverifiable, or outdated negative items from your credit report. You DO NOT Owe The DEBT COLLECTOR. But You DO OWE The Original Creditor.
But Credit Repair Is Still Important. The Purpose Of Credit Repair Is To Hide The Negative Items From Your Report So That They No Longer Hold You Back. Look at it as if you just got your RECORD EXPUNGED. Just because you get your record expunged doesn't mean you didn't do the crime and do the time. But when you apply for jobs THEY DON'T SEE THE FELONIES you have on your background.
In this case just because you get something removed from your report doesn't mean you don't have collections or negative accounts, but when you're applying for things. Other Banks & Lenders WON'T SEE THEM… This allows you to qualify for approvals you may have been denied before. Without having to wait 7-10 years. You May Just Have To Do Business With Another Company.
Example: Let's Say I Owe Capital One For An Auto Loan & I Want To Apply For Another Car. Almost Everyone Will Deny Me. But Once I Get That Auto Loan Deleted, It's A Million Companies That'll Allow Me To Finance A Car. But If I Want To Finance Another Car Through CAPITAL ONE — 9/10 I Will Still Have To Settle The Debt I Owe Them Because THEY PROBABLY HAVEN'T FORGOTTEN ABOUT ME. But Other Banks & Lenders Will Be Willing To Work With Me Because They Won't Be Able To See That I Owe Capital One.
Important to Understand:
If the statute of limitations to collect the debt hasn't yet passed, then you may still owe the original creditor, and it would be smart to settle with them AFTER THE DELETION — Even if you have to send them $20/month. I doubt they respond saying they no longer want the money. Especially since most companies would require payment or settlement if you want to do business with them again.
Can Items Be Reinserted?
Once an item has been deleted from your credit report, the credit bureaus are not supposed to reinsert it. However, in some cases, if the debt remains unsettled, a creditor or collection agency may attempt to re-report the account — often assuming that consumers are unaware of their rights under the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA).
Active Client Protection
If you are an active client, as part of my service process, if a new collection account appears or a previously deleted collection reappears while you are actively enrolled in the credit repair program, it will automatically be included in the next dispute round at NO ADDITIONAL COST. While this is not a required part of the service, I handle it this way in good faith to help keep all clients on track and maintain the progress of their credit profile.
After Program Completion
Once all negative items have been removed and your file has been successfully completed and closed, the service is considered finished. If a collection account later appears or reappears after the completion of the program, there will be a $300 reactivation fee to reinitiate credit repair services — especially since you are being informed upfront about the possibility of re-reporting if you don't settle after the deletion.
How To Properly Set Up Your LLC
Regarding business credit, I educate clients on how to properly set up an LLC, establish relationships with banks, and position themselves to qualify for business funding. My goal is to teach clients how to apply independently. However, if you choose to have me assist directly with applications, I charge a 10% success fee based on the approved amount.
I also work with relationship managers at major institutions, including Chase, U.S. Bank, PNC Bank, Truist, Citizens Bank, the SBA, and American Express. These relationship managers are the individuals who actually review and approve applications, and I refer my clients directly to them. Additionally, I offer tradelines & shelf corporations, which function similarly to tradelines but for an LLC.
Setting Up Your LLC PROPERLY
Do These In This EXACT ORDER. Because When You Do Step 6, You Will Need To Put Steps 1–5 On The Application.
| Step 1 | Business Name | Not In A Restricted Industry |
| Step 2 | Business Address | Brick & Mortar |
| Step 3 | Business Phone | 800 Number |
| Step 4 | Business Email | Not A Gmail |
| Step 5 | Website | Nothing Related To Anything Restricted (Social Media Not Enough) |
| Step 6 | Apply For Business Entity | LLC |
| Step 7 | E.I.N | Your business social |
| Step 8 | Open Business Checking & Savings Bank Account | No Personal Bank Account. (MUST NOT BE IN CHEXSYSTEMS) Put $100 In Checking & Savings |
| Step 9 | Duns & Bradstreet Number | Making Sure Your Company Is Verified |
| Step 10 | Ask For Money | You have 30 days to remove the inquiries before they hit your credit report |
Picture A $50,000 Line Of Credit Waiting On You. For Every Red Flag 🚩 You Lose $5,000
| Wrong Business Name? -$5,000 | $45,000 | Search For The Business Name Here — https://apps.ilsos.gov/businessentitysearch |
| Find Out If Your Business Is In A High Risk Industry | https://fairfigure.com/blog/low-risk-naics-codes | |
| No Business Email? -$5,000 | $40,000 | Google Workspace — $7–$14/Month |
| No Business Address? -$5,000 | $35,000 | Google Registered Agent For Your State |
| No Business Number -$5,000 | $30,000 | Google Voice, Grasshopper, RingCentral, SideLine, TextNow |
| No Business Bank Account -$5,000 | $25,000 | Any Bank That Offers Business Bank Accounts |
| No Business Website -$5,000 | $20,000 | Contact Harry — He's The One Who Created My Website. harry-castaner.vercel.app |
| No Duns & Bradstreet -$5,000 | $15,000 | Get Your D&B Number |
☎ Customer Service Number: 312-584-9969
📧 Customer Service Email: [email protected]
What's Going On With My Credit?
- Check your portal — see what's actually being disputed and what's been deleted so far. (You DO NOT Have To Check Your Portal Every 2 Weeks. It Will Only Update After Each Round.)
- Actually log into your credit monitoring account with IDIQ or MFSN — compare before & after. Look for deleted accounts, updated balances, or status changes.
- Watch your scores (but don't obsess) — they will fluctuate, but overall trends matter most. Remember your Report & Profile are far more important than your scores.
- Ask me questions — if something looks off or confusing, Book a free consultation.
Please allow up to 4 business days in between rounds. Once your dispute letters are sent out for the next round, you can log into your portal and you'll be able to see the difference in the amount of deletions & score changes. After each round, any remaining negative items automatically go into your next round of disputes.
Please Understand That A Update Is Strictly Just A Update. It Doesn't Mean You Will Have A Score Increase Every Round Or Something Will Be Deleted Every Round.
You Can Expect Certain Rounds With No Change. That's Completely Normal as It is Apart Of The Process. Believe It Or Not It Actually Helps With You Getting Deletions Because It Helps Us Catch The Credit Reporting Agencies Up In Violation Even More Than They Already Were.
How To Avoid Late Payments
Contact the Creditor Immediately — DO NOT WAIT until you miss a payment.
Call your lender or credit card company and say: "I'm experiencing a temporary financial hardship and want to avoid falling behind. What options do you have to help me stay current?"
Most lenders have hardship programs that can:
- Reduce your monthly payment
- Lower your interest rate
- Pause payments temporarily
- Change your due date
👉 This is your #1 best move to protect your credit.
- Ask for a "Payment Deferral" or "Skip-A-Payment" — especially common with auto loans. You may skip 1–3 payments added to the end of the loan while staying current. ⚠️ Some lenders charge a small fee or still accrue interest.
- Minimum Payment Strategy (Credit Cards) — Always pay at least the minimum (put it on autopay). Even $30–$50 prevents a late payment from reporting. A late payment is only reported after 30 days past due.
- Use the Grace Window — Bureaus do NOT report late payments until 30 days late. You still have time to fix it before it hits your report.
- Ask To Change Your Due Date — Most lenders allow this. Move it to align with your paycheck to prevent future misses.
🧠 Simple Game Plan:
- Call lender TODAY
- Ask for hardship or deferral
- Pay at least the minimum if possible
- Mark your calendar before 30 days hits
👉 Communication is what protects your credit — not silence. Lenders are WAY more flexible before you fall behind than after.
⚠️ If nothing is done: Car → risk of repossession | Loans & Credit Cards → charge-off after 120–180 days | Severe credit damage + collections.
What Is A Debt To Income Ratio (DTI)?
Debt-to-Income Ratio (DTI) is a simple but very important number lenders use to decide whether to approve you, how much to approve, and what terms you get.
Your DTI is the percentage of your gross monthly income that goes toward monthly debt payments. In short: It tells lenders how much of your income is already spoken for.
DTI = (Total Monthly Debt ÷ Gross Monthly Income) × 100
Why DTI Matters
• Determines loan approval
• Affects credit limits
• Impacts interest rates
• Can stop you from getting a mortgage even with a 750+ credit score
🔑 You can have a great credit score and still get denied because of high DTI.
DTI Guidelines Lenders Use
• 0-36% → ✅ Excellent - Most lenders love this
• 37-43% → ✅ Acceptable for most loans
• 44-50% → ⚠️ High - harder to get approved
• 50%+ → ❌ Most lenders will deny
DTI Calculator
Calculate your Debt-to-Income Ratio
Your Debt-To-Income Ratio
Educational
Learn about credit, understand the process, and master financial literacy
How To Read Your Credit Report
A credit report is a detailed record of your credit history and financial behavior. It shows lenders, banks, and creditors how you have managed borrowed money over time.
In the United States, credit reports are maintained by the three major credit bureaus: Equifax, Experian, Transunion
These companies collect information from lenders, credit card companies, and collection agencies to build your report.
What Information Is On a Credit Report
This section identifies you. It may include:
- Full name and any previous names used
- Current and previous addresses
- Social Security number (partially masked)
- Date of birth
- Employers (past and present)
What you want to see
Ideally your report should display: one name, one current address, one date of birth, one current employer.
Multiple variations can create inconsistencies that allow negative accounts to remain linked. Contact bureaus directly to correct:
- Equifax — 800-685-1111
- Experian — 888-397-3742
- TransUnion — 800-916-8800
Keep your ID updated with your current address — bureaus may keep old addresses accurate if your ID still shows them.
It's your credit grade — a number that tells lenders how risky or reliable you are.
Risk Factors are the key reasons why your credit score is not higher.
👉 In simple terms: They tell you what's hurting your credit the most right now. They show exactly what to fix and give insight into how lenders view your profile.
The Summary is a quick overview of your entire credit profile.
👉 In simple terms: It's a snapshot that breaks down everything on your credit report at a glance. ( Soft Pulls & Pre-Approvals )
Account History is a detailed record of how an account has been managed over time — especially your payment behavior month by month.
👉 In simple terms: It shows your track record for all accounts both open and closed.
What Each Field Means:
| Field | Definition | Example | ACTUAL |
|---|---|---|---|
| Account #: | Unique identifier assigned by the creditor. May show partially masked. | Full: 1234567890 • Report: XXXXXX7890 | 31** |
| Account Type: | General category of the account. | Revolving, Installment, Open Credit | Revolving |
| Account Type - Detail: | More specific account description. | 💳 Credit Cards: Bank, Retail, Secured 🚗 Loans: Auto, Personal, Student, Mortgage | Credit Card |
| Bureau Code: | Your role on this account. | Individual, Authorized User, Joint, Co-Signer | Individual |
| Account Status: | Open or closed, positive or negative. | Open, Closed | Open |
| Monthly Payment: | Min amount required monthly to stay in good standing. | Balance: $2,000 • Min: $60 📘 Pay $60 to avoid late | $20.00 |
| Date Opened: | Exact date account was created. | Opened Feb 1, 2024 📘 Active 2+ years | 02/01/2024 |
| Balance: | Total amount currently owed. | $756.00 | $756.00 |
| No. of Months (terms): | Total repayment period agreed. 0 for revolving accounts. | 0 | 0 |
| High Credit: | Most ever spent on card, or original loan value. | Limit: $5,000 • Most used: $3,200 📘 High Credit = $3,200 | $4,787.00 |
| Credit Limit: | Max amount lender allows you to borrow. | Limit: $5,000 • Balance: $1,500 📘 $3,500 still available | $11,100.00 |
| Past Due: | Amount owed that should already be paid. $0.00 is good. | Payment: $150 • Missed 2 months 📘 Past Due = $300 | $0.00 |
| Payment Status: | Current condition of account and payment behavior. | Current, Collection/Charge-Off | Current |
| Last Reported: | Most recent date creditor updated the bureaus. | Last Reported: 02/15/2026 | 02/06/2026 |
| Comments: | Notes added by creditor or bureau with extra details. | "In collections" ❗ "Settled for less" ⚠ | - |
| Date Last Active: | Last time account was used or had movement. | Used Jan 10, 2026 📘 Last Active = 01/10/2026 | 02/01/2026 |
| Date of Last Payment | Last time you actually made a payment. | Payment Feb 5, 2026 📘 Last Payment = 02/05/2026 | 02/01/2026 |
This is one of the most important parts of the report. It shows:
- On-time payments
- Late payments (30, 60, 90, 120 days late)
- Collections, Charge-offs or repossessions
Your payment history heavily influences your credit score.
Legend:
Account Inquiries are records of who has accessed your credit report and when.
👉 In simple terms: They show who checked your credit and why.
- Hard inquiries – when you apply for credit (can affect score)
- Soft inquiries – background checks or checking your own credit (no impact)
Some serious financial events may appear here, such as:
- Bankruptcies
- Tax liens
- Civil judgments (less common now)
Creditor's Contact Information provides the details of the company that owns or reports the account.
👉 In simple terms: It tells you who to contact about that account.
How To Avoid Late Payments
Contact the Creditor Immediately — DO NOT WAIT until you miss a payment.
Call your lender or credit card company and say: "I'm experiencing a temporary financial hardship and want to avoid falling behind. What options do you have to help me stay current?"
Most lenders have hardship programs that can:
- Reduce your monthly payment
- Lower your interest rate
- Pause payments temporarily
- Change your due date
👉 This is your #1 best move to protect your credit.
- Ask for a "Payment Deferral" or "Skip-A-Payment" — especially common with auto loans. You may skip 1–3 payments added to the end of the loan while staying current. ⚠️ Some lenders charge a small fee or still accrue interest.
- Minimum Payment Strategy (Credit Cards) — Always pay at least the minimum (put it on autopay). Even $30–$50 prevents a late payment from reporting. A late payment is only reported after 30 days past due.
- Use the Grace Window — Bureaus do NOT report late payments until 30 days late. You still have time to fix it before it hits your report.
- Ask To Change Your Due Date — Most lenders allow this. Move it to align with your paycheck to prevent future misses.
🧠 Simple Game Plan:
- Call lender TODAY
- Ask for hardship or deferral
- Pay at least the minimum if possible
- Mark your calendar before 30 days hits
👉 Communication is what protects your credit — not silence. Lenders are WAY more flexible before you fall behind than after.
⚠️ If nothing is done: Car → risk of repossession | Loans & Credit Cards → charge-off after 120–180 days | Severe credit damage + collections.
What Is A Debt To Income Ratio (DTI)?
Debt-to-Income Ratio (DTI) is a simple but very important number lenders use to decide whether to approve you, how much to approve, and what terms you get.
Your DTI is the percentage of your gross monthly income that goes toward monthly debt payments. In short: It tells lenders how much of your income is already spoken for.
DTI = (Total Monthly Debt ÷ Gross Monthly Income) × 100
Why DTI Matters
• Determines loan approval
• Affects credit limits
• Impacts interest rates
• Can stop you from getting a mortgage even with a 750+ credit score
🔑 You can have a great credit score and still get denied because of high DTI.
DTI Guidelines Lenders Use
• 0-36% → ✅ Excellent - Most lenders love this
• 37-43% → ✅ Acceptable for most loans
• 44-50% → ⚠️ High - harder to get approved
• 50%+ → ❌ Most lenders will deny
DTI Calculator
Calculate your Debt-to-Income Ratio
Your Debt-To-Income Ratio
How To Calculate Your Credit History / Age
Credit Age (also called Length of Credit History) makes up 15% of your credit score and is calculated using multiple factors, not just one account.
CREDIT AGE IS BASED ON:
1. Age of Oldest Account
- The very first account ever opened on your credit report
- Older = better
- This is why closing old accounts can hurt
2. Age of Newest Account
- Your most recently opened account
- Opening new accounts lowers your average age
3. Average Age of Accounts - MOST IMPORTANT
This is what most people miss.
Formula:
(Total age of all accounts) ÷ (Number of accounts)
Example: Let's Say You Only Have 3 Accounts On Your Credit Report
- Account A: 6 years Old
- Account B: 4 years Old
- Account C: 2 years Old
6+4+2 = A Total Of 12 years
12 ÷ 3 accounts = 4-year average credit age
4. Open AND Closed Accounts Count
- Closed accounts still count toward credit age
- They usually remain on your report for up to 10 years
- Once they fall off, your average age can drop
HOW LENDERS & BUREAUS SEE IT
All three bureaus calculate age slightly differently:
- Experian
- Equifax
- TransUnion
That's why one bureau may show 4.2 years while another may show 3.8 years. This is normal.
COMMON ROOKIE MISTAKES
- Closing old cards "because they don't use them"
- Opening too many accounts too fast
- Relying only on authorized user accounts
- Thinking a single old account = strong profile
IN CONCLUSION: Credit age is not about how old ONE account is. It's about how long you've been responsibly managing MULTIPLE accounts over time.
You can have one 10-year-old account and five brand new accounts... and still have a weak average credit age.
Banks & Lenders Like To See Profiles That Have 5 Or More Years Worth Of Credit History/Age
Credit Age Calculator (AAoA Estimator)
Add each account on your credit report (open + closed) and enter its age. The calculator will automatically compute your Average Age of Accounts (AAoA).
Note: This is an estimate. Credit bureaus may calculate age slightly differently and may include closed accounts until they fall off your report.
How To Pay Your Credit Card Bill Correctly
Rule #1
NEVER SPEND WHAT YOU DO NOT HAVE
When It Comes To Paying Down The Balance There Are Two Types Of People
Type 1: Pay After Every Purchase. ( THIS IS THE SAFER ROUTE )
My Lil Sister Prefers This Method Her Balance Is Always Low As You See In The Screenshot It's Only $36.08
Type 2: Is To Let It Build Up Then Pay.
( I Prefer This Method ) For Some Reason I Like The Way The Money Looks In My Actual Account Rather Than On The Credit Card 😂
At The End Of The Day There Is No RIGHT OR WRONG ANSWER.
However If You Are Going To Be A Type 2 Kind Of Person, You Need To Know How To Do It Correctly.
Payment Strategies:
- Pay IN FULL — (Highly Recommend to put the minimum balance on auto pay for all credit cards)
- Pay To Aim For 10% Balance
- Pay To Aim For 30% Balance
- Pay Minimum Balance & Catch Up As You Go
0% Utilization = Best Debt To Income Ratio.
If Your Utilization Is 1-10% You Can Expect Your Scores To Increase.
11%-30% Your Scores Will Fluctuate In The Same Range You Been At.
Anything 31% Or Higher You Can Expect Your Scores To Drop Even If You Paid Your Bills On Time.
Rule #2 Never Ever Get A Late Payment ‼️
Late Payments Can Last For 7 Years And Affect Negatively For 4 Years.
Rule #3 Understand The Difference Between Statement Date Vs Due Date
Statement Date Vs Due Date
Credit Limit
The Total Amount Your Credit Card Is Worth Assuming You Owe $0
The Credit Limit For This Account Is $19,100
Due Date
Your Due Date Is What Reports Your PAYMENT HISTORY.
You Can Find This On Mobile Credit Card App. Usually Right Next To The Balance Or When You're Attempting To Pay The Bill
Statement Date
Your Statement Date Is What Goes On Your Credit Report.
You Can Find This On Mobile Credit Card App Under Statements & Documents
Balance
Balance = ( How Much You Owe )
Pay your Full balance down 3 days before your Statement Date.
Whatever your balance is after your statement date… THAT'S WHAT WILL SHOW ON YOUR CREDIT REPORT & DETERMINE YOUR UTILIZATION
‼️ This is where you want to make sure your balance is either paid in full or below 30% preferably 10%
The Balance For This Account Is $261. Utilization = 1.36%
That is excellent utilization and shows responsible credit use.
Monthly Payment
Monthly Payment = Minimum Balance:
If for whatever reason you can't pay the full credit card balance, If you just pay the MINIMUM BALANCE 3 days before the Due Date 📅 you will have 100% payment history on your credit report.
I recommend putting minimum balance on autopay.
My Minimum Balance Is $41. So Even If I Were To Max Out This Card. ( which is not recommended) By Paying At Least The Minimum Balance I Keep The Account Active & Avoid A LATE PAYMENT
High Credit
High Credit = This let banks and creditors know what is the MOST Amount of money you spent on this Credit Card 💳
My High Credit Is $7,885. This Means At One Point This Was My Balance AFTER THE STATEMENT DATE. Before I Paid It Down, And It's Highest Balance I've Had So Far.
Credit Card Utilization Calculator
Your Credit Card Utilization is one of the most important factors in your credit score - it makes up 30% of your total score. Keeping it low shows lenders you're responsible with credit.
The Golden Rule: Keep your utilization at 10% or below for the best credit scores. Anything over 30% starts to hurt your score.
Enter your credit card details below to see your utilization rate on the visual bar, and get personalized payment options for Options A, B, C, and D.
Utilization Calculator
See your utilization and get personalized payment options
Your Utilization Rate
Credit SCORE vs Credit REPORT vs Credit PROFILE 📑
Fun Facts:
● Your Credit Score, Credit Report, & Credit Profile Are 3 Completely Different Things.
● Your #CREDIT Is NOT Your Credit SCORE. Your Credit Is Your Credibility Aka Your Reputation With Banks & Lenders 🤑
● When You Have Negative Items & Late Payments On Your Report YOU HAVE NO CREDIBILITY 😩
- Your Credit Score DOES NOT Get You Approved For Anything 😭
- Just Because You Have A Good Credit Score DOES NOT MEAN You Have GOOD CREDIT
- Someone With A 650 Credit Score Can Get Approved Over Someone With A 750 Credit Score due to the report and profile
- Your Credit Report & Credit Profile Is Far More Important Than Your Credit Score.
- You Can Have A 750 Credit Score And STILL NEED A CO-SIGNER
- Credit Is Just Like A Job… You Need The Experience To Get The Job, But You Need The Job To Get The Experience.
- Having No Credit History Is Almost The Same As Having Bad Credit. Either Way You Have NO CREDIBILITY
What Makes Up Your Credit Score?
Please Understand That Credit Repair DOES NOT Boost Your Score. ‼️ The Only Person That Can Increase Your Credit Score Is YOU.
I Cannot Make Your Scores Go Up Or Down. So If You Want A Higher Credit Score You First Need To Know What Makes Up Your Credit Score? These Are Called #The5Factors ‼️
| Factor | Explanation | Expectations |
|---|---|---|
| Payment History 35% |
Nobody pays your bills BUT YOU so if you get a late payment the only person should be to blame IS YOU. I Do Not Pay Any Of My Clients Bills | It answers the question: How Often Do You Pay Your Bills On Time when you owe? Is it 20%, 50%, 80% Or 100% Of The Time? Meaning You Pay Your Bills On Time Every Month? Payment History is the most important factor in your credit score. |
| Credit Card Utilization 30% |
Nobody should be using any of your credit cards BUT YOU so if your credit card balances are over 30% or maxed out and your score drops. Once again that is not my fault. I have 0 access to any of my clients credit cards | Banks & Lenders like to see utilization under 10%. |
| Credit Age/History 15% |
This is the one that gets everyone including myself. Unfortunately people don't care about their credit until it stops them from getting approved for things. So if you waited last minute to prioritize your credit and you have no credit history or short history…. THAT IS NOT MY FAULT. | It answers the question: How Long Have You Been Establishing Credit? Has It Been For 3 Months, 6 Months, 1 Year, 3 Years, Or 5 YEARS OR MORE? • Calculated based on the average age of all your accounts • Older = better for your score |
| Inquiries 10% |
Every time you apply for something that is a HARD PULL… You WILL RECEIVE A INQUIRY. And every time you receive an inquiry whether you are Approved Or Denied YOUR SCORE WILL DROP. I don't apply for anything in anyone's name So if you have too many inquiries or receive new inquiries once again… NOT MY FAULT | In reality you want to have was than 2 inquiries per Bureau (Equifax, Experian, Transunion) and whenever you have inquiries you want them to be at least 6 months apart. |
| Credit Mix 10% |
So incase you didn't know there are different types of credit. If you have no positive accounts on your profile then you have no credit mix. And since I have not and will not apply for anything in anyone's name if my client's names. Once again… NOT MY FAULT. | Banks & Lenders love profiles with good Credit Mixes. Revolving Accounts (Credit Cards) Recommended: 3–5 accounts. Major credit cards (Visa, Mastercard, Amex) Installment Accounts (Loans) 1–2 or more Active short term loan (Self lender, credit builder loan, secured loan) — Recommended: 2–3 or more Active long term loan (Car, mortgage, personal loan etc) Open Credit / "Other" Accounts (Credit Builders) Rent reporting, phone bill, utility bills — Recommended: 1–3 accounts |
| Reality | Credit score changes are based on account activity and lender reporting. I do not make payments, use your credit cards, or apply for credit on your behalf. | This Is Why I Can Never Be The Reason Your Score Increases Or Decreases. The Most I Can Do Is Give You Suggestions On How To Build Your Scores |
Hard Truth:
Remember your Credit Is Your CREDIBILITY AKA YOUR REPUTATION WITH BANKS & LENDERS. There's absolutely NO WAY to have good credit without having positive reporting accounts. You can get everything deleted off of your credit report and STILL have bad credit (no credibility) due to failure of REBUILDING your credit profile. Rebuilding means you have positive reporting accounts that report to the credit bureaus monthly.
Take a look at the chart above where it says "EXPECTATIONS" — This section represents what the banks & lenders like and expect to see whenever viewing your credit report. If you cannot go through your report and find any of the following, you should be making it your business to visit my ACTIVE CLIENT TAB & CLICK ON THE "TO DO LIST."
Credit repair works only when WE work.
I'm not a miracle worker, I'm a strategist. You have to do your part as well. Please take your credit seriously — it represents your financial credibility.
Credit APPLICATION
The Application = The INTERVIEW
When applying for credit, several factors influence approval, including your income, existing debt, employment history, and overall financial profile. However, what many people don't realize is that even with a 700+ credit score and no collections, your application can still be negatively impacted by inaccurate or inconsistent personal information.
Credit bureaus rely heavily on personal identifiers to verify identity. If your name or details appear differently across reports-for example, Cordell D. Collins on one bureau, Cordell Collins on another, and Cordell Collins Jr. on a third-those discrepancies can cause verification issues. On paper, these variations can appear as separate individuals.
Ultimately what you want to see on your credit report is ONE NAME, ONE DOB, & ONE EMPLOYER. All 3 of them should MATCH TO THE T.
Many consumers have multiple name variations and outdated addresses listed on their credit reports. This can trigger red flags during the application process, leading lenders to question identity verification, suspect potential fraud, or confuse you with another individual who shares the same name.
How To Prevent This:
The best way to prevent and correct this issue while undergoing credit repair is to ensure that the address on your government-issued ID matches your current residence. Additionally, when applying for credit, it's important to use the same personal information consistently on every application.
Consistency and accuracy play a critical role in protecting your credit profile and improving approval outcomes.
Credit REPORT 📋
Credit Report = The BACKGROUND CHECK
(This Is What Gets You Approved Or Denied)
Derogatory Marks Are Like Felonies. You Can Have The Best Resume In The World Along With All The Work Experience. The Chances Of You Becoming Manager At Any Establishment With Armed Robbery On Your Record Is Slim. A lot of times people often downplay their credit reports.
Don't ever think just because you only have a "few negative items" or only owe small debts that your credit report is "NOT THAT BAD" In Most Cases 1 Collection can and will get you denied regardless of the amount owed.
Smaller collections are actually worse. A $10,000 collection makes sense but when you have small collections you just make yourself look very irresponsible. If You couldn't handle a $300 credit card, Why should anyone trust you with a $30,000 auto loan?
You Can Have A 750 Credit Score. 1 Collection Can Get You Denied. Having A Bankruptcy On Your Report Is Like Committing Murder 😳 It's The Absolute Worst Thing You Can Have On Your Credit Report.
Good Credit Report - This Is What You Want To See
• Payment History: 100%
• Credit Card Utilization: 10% or below
• Derogatory Marks: 0
• Credit Age: 5 years or more
• Total Accounts: 10 or more
• Hard Inquiries: 2 or less
If Your Report Doesn't Look Like This - YOU NEED CREDIT REPAIR.
Bad Credit Report - This Is What You Don't Want To See
• Multiple Delinquent Accounts (accounts with late payments)
• Derogatory Accounts (repos, charge-offs, evictions, etc.)
• Collections
• Public Records (usually bankruptcies)
• Excessive Inquiries
SideNote: Your Report Is Always Worse On Paper Than Real Life. You Might Have 1 Collection With T-Mobile But If That Collection Is Reporting On Transunion, Experian, & Equifax, On Paper That's 3 Collections. Would You Loan Someone Money If You Knew For A Fact They Owed 19 People?
Credit PROFILE = This Is What Separates You From Everyone Else.
Example: You & I Just Applied For The Same Exact House. The Minimum Credit Score Required Is A 700.
• We Both Have A 750 Credit Score
• We Both Have 5 Credit Cards 💳
• We Both Have 1 Auto Loan
• We Both Have 100% Payment History
• We Both Have 0 Collections
• We Both Have Only 2 Inquiries
If We Both Have A 750 Credit Score, Then We Both QUALIFY TO APPLY.
If We Both Have A Clean Credit Report, Then 9/10 We Both Will Be Approved.
Now ask yourself, if there are 20 other people who meet this same criteria, why should they choose YOU? If We All Meet These Requirements That Only Means WE ALL QUALIFY TO APPLY. It DOES NOT mean that WE ALL HAVE GOOD CREDIT. (Aka good Credibility)
So How Does The Loan Officer Decide Who's The Better Candidate? THE PROFILE.
WEAK PROFILE VS A STRONG PROFILE?
FREE GAME ✍🏾
• Bold Wordings = What Banks & Lenders Like To See 👏🏾
• Your Credit History Is 15% Of Your Credit Score
• Your Credit Mix Is 10% Of Your Credit Score.
• The LONGER The Credit HISTORY & The More DIVERSE The Credit MIX. THE STRONGER THE PROFILE 💪🏾
Your Profile Is Where They Pay Attention To More Details Such As…
PAYMENT HISTORY — 35% Of Your Score
How Often Do You Pay Your Bills On Time? Is It 20%, 50%, 80% Or 100% Of The Time. Meaning You Pay Your Bills On Time Every Month?
Who's More Trustworthy?
CREDIT AGE / CREDIT HISTORY — 15% Of Your Score
How Long Have You Been Establishing Credit? 3 Months, 6 Months, 1 Year, 3 Years, Or 5 YEARS OR MORE?
Who's Been More Consistent?
What Is Your Credit Card Limit For Each Card Individually & What Is Your Total Credit Limit For All Of Your Credit Cards Combined?
Is It $300, $500, $1,000, $5,000 Or More?
Who's Managing The Most Money?
CREDIT CARD UTILIZATION — 30% Of Your Score
How Much Of Your Total Credit Card Limit Are You Utilizing? Is It Below 10%, Below 30%, Above 30%, Or MAXED OUT?
Who's The Less Likely To Be In Need Of Money To Get By?
What Type Of Credit Cards Do You Own? (Credit Mix — 10% Of Your Score)
Are They Primary Accounts? Or Tradelines & Authorized Users?
Who's More Legit?
| Tier Type | Card Category | Who they're for | Example | Purpose | Average Credit Limits |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tradelines / Authorized User | Depends on the owner (Banks Will Know You Are Not The Owner) | Everyone | Doesn't Really Count Towards Your Creditability. At The End Of The Day Banks Want To Know WHAT HAVE YOU DONE? | Can help lower utilization reporting, can help increase credit scores, can help improve credit Age Reporting | Depends On Primary Owner |
| Tier 0 | These Cards Are Not Ranked | Beginners & Rebuilders | Chime, Self Lender, Kikoff, Tomo, Ava, Credit Strong | These Accounts Were Designed To Help Build Payment History But Do Not Count As Real Credit Cards. | Multiple options available. Can vary. |
| Tier 1 | Subprime / Starter Credit Cards | Poor or limited credit (typically 300–579) | Discover it® Secured • Capital One Platinum Secured • OpenSky® Secured Visa | Entry-level access / rebuilding. Secured cards, First-time builder cards | $200 – $1,000 |
| Tier 2 | Near-Prime / Fair Credit Cards | Fair credit (580–669) | Capital One QuicksilverOne • Discover it® Chrome • Credit One Bank Platinum Visa | Transition phase | $1,000 – $3,500 |
| Tier 3 | Prime Credit Cards | Good credit (670–739) | Capital One Quicksilver • Chase Freedom Unlimited® • Navy Federal cashRewards | Strong everyday use (cash back) | $3,500 – $10,000 |
| Tier 4 | Super-Prime / Premium Credit Cards | Excellent credit (740–799) | Chase Sapphire Preferred® • American Express® Gold Card • Navy Federal More Rewards | High rewards & perks | $10,000 – $25,000+ |
| Tier 5 | Ultra-Premium / Charge & Elite Cards | Top-tier profiles (800+, strong income & profile) | American Express® Platinum Card • Chase Sapphire Reserve® • American Express® Centurion | Lifestyle, leverage, and prestige | $25,000 – $100,000+ (or No Preset Limit) |
DEROGATORY MARKS
How Many Negative Accounts Do You Have Reporting? Is It 0, 1-5, 6-11, 12-19, Or 20+?
Who's More Responsible?
TOTAL ACCOUNTS — Also Credit Mix (10% Of Your Score)
How Many Open Positive Accounts Do You Have? 1-3, 5-9, Or 10 OR MORE?
What Type Of Accounts Do You Have? Only Revolving Accounts, Only Installment Accounts, Only Open Credit, Or All 3 Types?
Who's More Credible?
HARD INQUIRIES — 10% Of Your Score
How Many Do You Have Per Credit Bureau? 2 OR LESS, 3-10, 11-19, 20 Or More? And How Recent Are Your Inquiries? 6 Months Or Fewer Or 7 Months Or Older?
Who Seems To Be The Least Desperate For Cash?
DEBT TO INCOME RATIO
What Is Your Debt To Income Ratio Percentage? Is It 0–35%, 36-43%, 44-50%, 50%+?
Who's The Less Riskier Customer?
When Applying For Things Like Auto Loans, Personal Loans, Business Loans, & Mortgage Loans — Without A Strong Profile You May Be Asked To…
- Provide a co-signer
- Show proof of income (pay stubs, tax returns, bank statements)
- Put up collateral (vehicle, cash, assets, or liens)
- Accept a higher interest rate or unfavorable terms
- Make a larger down payment
- Accept a lower approval amount than requested
- Pay origination, funding, or risk-based fees
- Open additional accounts with the lender (checking/savings)
- Agree to shorter loan terms (higher monthly payments)
- Provide business financials (P&L, balance sheet, EIN history)
- Face manual underwriting instead of instant approval
- Receive a conditional approval that can be revoked
Take This Story As A Great Example. She Thought Her Credit Score Was Her Credit. 10/10 She Had A Weak Profile & That's Why She Still Needed A Co-signer.
Hard Truth
Having "good credit" means more than a high score. If you are not in a position to confidently request six-figure funding from a financial institution, your credit profile may not be as strong as you believe.
For the statement "I have good credit" to be accurate, four key elements must be in place:
- Good Credit Score
- Clean & Accurate Credit Report
- Strong Credit Profile
- LLC SET UP PROPERLY
Why Do You Need All Four? Because All 4 Combined Is WHAT MAKES YOU CREDIBLE. And Remember YOUR CREDIT IS YOUR CREDIBILITY.
- A Good Credit Score Doesn't Mean You're Approved — But Without A Good Credit Score You Most Likely Won't Qualify To Apply For Most Things.
- You Can Have A Good Credit Score & Still Fail The Application For Putting Wrong Information On An Application, Or Not Having An Accurate Credit Report.
- You Can Have A Good Credit Score, Clean Credit & Accurate Credit Report. But Still Have A WEAK PROFILE.
Even with a good credit score, clean credit report, and strong profile — business funding can still be denied if the LLC is not set up correctly. Entity structure, compliance, and financial alignment play a critical role in lender approval. Your business is what gives you access to $150K or more — not to mention all of the tax benefits as a business owner.
However, if your personal credit is not strong, it is recommended that you address and improve it first — unless you can provide verifiable business bank statements and tax returns demonstrating consistent monthly profits of at least $10,000.
This is a separate — but equally important — conversation. If you would like to determine whether your LLC is properly established or need assistance with setup and compliance, you are encouraged to schedule a consultation.
Why Is Credit So Important?
Statistics
If You Asked 95% Of The People Why They Aren't Where They Want To Be In Life Or Doing What They Want To Do ? Most Will Say "It Takes Money To Make Money & That They DON'T HAVE THE MONEY"
So They THINK THE MONEY IS THE PROBLEM. I Always Tell People If You Don't Have The Money All You Need Is The Credit And You Can Get APPROVED FOR THE MONEY
Did you know it is possible to be approved for $10,000, $30,000, or even $50,000+ in funding before you are able to earn or save that amount through a traditional 9-to-5 income—while still managing everyday expenses and financial obligations?
Even individuals with challenged credit may qualify. In many cases, the time it takes to dispute negative items, rebuild credit, and establish a stronger profile is shorter than the time it would take to save $10,000 through earned income alone.
For many people, saving large sums is difficult due to ongoing living expenses, which often leads to reliance on tax refunds—only to find that those funds are quickly used to catch up on bills rather than create financial growth.
When funding is approved, the key is to allocate it toward opportunities that generate additional income or long-term returns, rather than short-term expenses.
Examples:
- Properties ( 3 Flats, 4 Flats, Fix & Flips, )
- Airbnb's
- Rental Spaces
- Tow Trucks
- Box Trucks
- 18 Wheeler
- ATM's
- Vending Machine
- Car Wash
These are just a few examples, but moral of the story the real goal is to have your PROFITS paying your Bills instead of you WORKING to pay your bills. Or 9/10 you'll be working until the day you die. Because I realized this I haven't worked a a 9-5 since 2021.
Credit repair is important because it:
✓ Lowers interest rates
✓ Increases approvals
✓ Strengthens your profile
✓ Gives you leverage
✓ Saves real money
✓ Saves you time
Think You Have Good Or Decent Credit ? Grade Yourself - How Many Categories Did You Check Off ? Example 1/27, 10/27, 27/27
If You Do Not Know The Answers To These Questions, You May Need To Access All 3 Of Your Full Credit Reports & Scores To Take This Quiz
View My Reports & Scores
https://member.identityiq.com/creditpreferred.aspx?offercode=431281TX&a1=UTILS&cart=true
- Credit Age Calculator
- Credit Card Utilization Calculator
- Debt To Income Ratio Calculator
Credit Card Tier Rank
| Tier Type | Card Category | Who they're for | Example | Purpose | Average Credit Limits |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tradelines / Authorized User | Depends on the owner (Banks Will Know You Are Not The Owner) | Everyone | Doesn't Really Count Towards Your Creditability. At The End Of The Day Banks Want To Know WHAT HAVE YOU DONE? | Can help lower utilization reporting, can help increase credit scores, can help improve credit Age Reporting | Depends On Primary Owner |
| Tier 0 | These Cards Are Not Ranked | Beginners & Rebuilders | Chime, Self Lender, Kikoff, Tomo, Ava, Credit Strong | These Accounts Were Designed To Help Build Payment History But Do Not Count As Real Credit Cards. | Multiple options available. Can vary. |
| Tier 1 | Subprime / Starter Credit Cards | Poor or limited credit (typically 300–579) | Discover it® Secured • Capital One Platinum Secured • OpenSky® Secured Visa | Entry-level access / rebuilding. Secured cards, First-time builder cards | $200 – $1,000 |
| Tier 2 | Near-Prime / Fair Credit Cards | Fair credit (580–669) | Capital One QuicksilverOne • Discover it® Chrome • Credit One Bank Platinum Visa | Transition phase | $1,000 – $3,500 |
| Tier 3 | Prime Credit Cards | Good credit (670–739) | Capital One Quicksilver • Chase Freedom Unlimited® • Navy Federal cashRewards | Strong everyday use (cash back) | $3,500 – $10,000 |
| Tier 4 | Super-Prime / Premium Credit Cards | Excellent credit (740–799) | Chase Sapphire Preferred® • American Express® Gold Card • Navy Federal More Rewards | High rewards & perks | $10,000 – $25,000+ |
| Tier 5 | Ultra-Premium / Charge & Elite Cards | Top-tier profiles (800+, strong income & profile) | American Express® Platinum Card • Chase Sapphire Reserve® • American Express® Centurion | Lifestyle, leverage, and prestige | $25,000 – $100,000+ (or No Preset Limit) |
Credit Profile Scorecard - Weak vs Strong
| Category | Weak Profile | Strong Profile | Magic Question | Score Board |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Credit Score | 300 - 679 (680-719 Is Mid) | 720 Or Higher | Is Your Credit Score A 720 Or Better? | Give Yourself One Point If Yes. |
| 2. Total Open Accounts | 1-9 Accounts and or recently | 10 Or More. | Do You Have 10 Or More Open Positive Accounts? | Give Yourself One Point If Yes. |
| 3. Closed Accounts | Paid but with late payments, some paid collections | Everything paid off 100% good standing (NO LATES) | Are All Of Your Closed Accounts Paid With 0 Late Payments? Paid Collections Don't Count | Give Yourself One Point If Yes. |
| 4. Credit History / Credit Age (15% Of Your Score) | 1 month – 4 years | 5+ years of established credit | Is Your Credit Age At Least 5 Years? | Give Yourself One Point If Yes. |
| 5. Payment History (35% of Your Score) | 20%–80% on-time payments, Any 30/60/90/120-day late payments, Missed payments on Credit Cards, installment loans | 100% on-time payments every month, No late payments at all (or none showing) | Do You Have 100% Payment History? (This Also Includes Closed Accounts You Have Paid Off) | Give Yourself One Point If Yes. |
| 6. Credit Card Type | Authorized User | Primary Owner | Do You Have At Least 3-5 Real Credit Cards? | Give Yourself One Point If Yes. |
| 7. Credit Card Tier | 0-2 Tier | 3-5 Tier | Based Off The Information Above, What Tier Do Your Credit Cards Rank? Are Any 4 & 5 Tier Cards? | Give Yourself One Point If Yes. |
| 8. Credit Card History | Opened 6-12 Months | (2-4 Years = Mid) 5+ Years = Good | Do you have at least 1 credit card with a 5 year payment history? | Give Yourself One Point If Yes. |
| 9. Individual Credit Card Limits | $200 – $4,999 | $5,000 Or Higher | Do You Have 3 Credit Cards With A Credit Limit Of $5,000 Or More? | Give Yourself One Point If Yes. |
| 10. Total Credit Limit | $14,000 Or Below | $15,000–$50,000+ total available credit | Do You Have $15,000–$50,000+ in Total Available Credit? | Give Yourself One Point If Yes |
| 11. Credit Card Utilization (30% Of Your Score) | Above 30% or maxed out | 1%–10% utilization (never above 30%) | Is Your Credit Card Utilization Under 10%? | Give Yourself One Point If Yes. |
| 12-14. Credit Mix (Can Score 1, 2, Or 3 points) | Only 1-3 accounts (usually cards only) | Credit Cards + auto + personal/installment & Open Credit | Do You Have Revolving Credit Cards, Installment Loans, And Open Credit (Utility Bills Or Rent) Reporting To Your Credit? | If You Have Revolving Accounts Add 1 Point. If You Have Installment Accounts Add 1 Point. If You Have Open Credit Add 1 Point. |
| 15-16. Installment Accounts (Can Score 1 Or 2 Points) | Only small installment loans ($500 – $3,000) | Mid =$5,000-$9,000. High-value installment loans ($10,000 – $50,000+) | Do you have any installment loans $10,000+ paid off or 100% payment history | If paid off add 1 point. If open but 100% payment history add 1 point. |
| 17. Installment Account History | Recently opened installment loans | Installment loans aged 12–36+ months | Do you have any installment loans with payment history 12-36+ months old? | Give Yourself One Point If Yes |
| 18. Hard Inquiries (10% Of Your Score) | 3-10+ per bureau | 2 or fewer per bureau | Do You Have 2 Or Less Inquiries Per Credit Bureau? | Give Yourself One Point If Yes. |
| 19. Hard Inquiry Type (Good Vs Bad Inquiries) | Not attached to open accounts (most likely got denied but still has inquiry reporting) | Attached to open accounts (Applied for something and actually got approved) | Do you have any inquiries that ARE NOT attached to open accounts? | If the answer is NO. ADD 1 POINT. |
| 20. Hard Inquiry History | 5 Months Or Less | 6 Months Old Older | Are Your Inquiries At Least 6 Months Old? | Add 1 Point If Yes. |
| 21. Debt To Income Ratio (DTI) | 44%–50%+ | 0%–35% | Is Your DTI 0-35%? | Give Yourself One Point If Yes. |
| 22-23 LLC (can score 1 or 2 points) | Less Than 2 Years Old, Not Set Up Properly, Or No LLC | 2 Or More Years Old, Set Up Properly | Do You Have A LLC & Has It Been Established For At Least 2 Years? | If You Have A LLC Add 1 Point. If you had it for 2 years add another point. |
| 24. Tax Liens | Federal or State Tax Liens present | No tax liens reported | Do you have any tax liens reporting on your credit report? | If the answer is no add one point. |
| 25. Derogatory Accounts (Derogatory = Negative) | 1+ Negative Account | Clean credit report (0 derogatory accounts) | Do You Have Any Negative Accounts On Your Credit Report? Collections, Repos, Evictions, Charge Offs, Student Loans, | If Yes, Subtract All Points. You Have Been Disqualified And Do Not Have Good Credit. If The Answer Is No Add One Point |
| 26. Bankruptcies | Open Bankruptcy, Dismissed, Or Discharged (Chapter 7, 11, or 13) | No bankruptcy on file | Do you have a bankruptcy reporting on file? | If The Answer Is No Add One Point. If Yes Subtract All Points. A Bankruptcy Is The Worst Thing You Can Have On Your Credit Report |
| 27. Funding Outcome | Denials or terrible loan terms | Lower interest & higher approval limits | If you apply for a personal or business loan and can't get a minimum 50K. You do not have good credit. You may have decent credit but not good credit. | If you have been approved for over 50k within the last 6 months add 1 point. |
| Approval Results | Requires cosigner, proof of income, collateral, or high interest rates etc | No cosigner, proof of income, or collateral needed. Also low interest rates. | Based off of your recent experience when applying for things using credit you should be able to tell if your report is Bad, Decent, Good, Or Great. | No need to add points here |
Hard Truth: What's Your Total Out Of 27? I Scored 23/27
- Because I didn't care about my credit until a few years ago even im still building payment history. No one can run from this. Tradelines won't save you.
- Because I am financing so many things at once my DTI is now higher than 35%. As I slow down and keep paying my bills on time it'll go back down.
- Although I have 3 installments over 10K, (10K, 45K & 50K) Neither has been fully paid off but all 3 does have 100% payment history so I only got 1 point for that.
- I was approved for 50K within the last 6 months so I gained a point for that but that also means I also have a hard inquiry that is recent so I lost a point for that.
For those who believe their credit situation isn't that bad, I hope this provides helpful clarity and insight. There's no reason for embarrassment—awareness is the first step toward improvement. Now that you know what areas need attention, you can take the right steps forward. If you need assistance with any of these subjects, don't hesitate to book a consultation. I'm here to help you restore and strengthen your credit profile.
Why Is Credit Repair So Important?
1️⃣ Credit Affects Things People Don't Expect
Credit isn't just loans:
- Renting an apartment
- Cell phone deposits
- Utilities (gas, electric, internet)
- Insurance rates
- Some jobs & promotions
Bad credit = more deposits, more scrutiny, fewer options.
2️⃣ Credit Repair Removes What's Holding You Back
Credit repair does NOT erase debt — it removes:
- Inaccurate
- Outdated
- Unverifiable
- Improperly reported items
That's important because lenders don't care why something happened — only what's showing right now.
3️⃣ A High Score ≠ Strong Credit
You can have a 720+ score and still get denied.
Lenders look at:
- Payment history
- Utilization
- Credit age
- Account mix
- Profile strength
Credit repair cleans the report so building actually works
4️⃣ Credit Repair Saves Time
Without cleaning the report first:
- New credit gets denied
- Utilization fixes don't move scores
- Hard inquiries hurt more
- Growth stalls
Repair first → then build → then apply.
That Said Every Single Person Wants Good Credit & eventually finds out the hard way that they actually NEED GOOD CREDIT. It kills me that people don't realize a few negative items are the main things holding them back from living the lifestyles they deserve. Whenever your credit is holding you back from something you have 4 Options.
1️⃣ Pay Someone To Fix It
Best option if you can find someone like me who's efficient, very informative, trustworthy, has real results, real testimonials, and a proven track record of consistency.
2️⃣ Stay In Debt & Wait For Everything To Fall Off
This option is Not as Simple as it sounds, and honestly isn't smart either. Mainly because of how late payments report. YOU'LL BE WAITING FOREVER LIKE YOU BEEN HAVE.
| Account Type | How Long It Stays On Your Credit Report |
|---|---|
| Late Payments | That's 7 Years ( PER LATE PAYMENT ) So if you got a late payment on your car note in 2023. It won't fall off until 2030. But what if you got another late payment in 2026? Now you have to wait until 2033. So when you have multiple accounts with multiple late payments you'll be waiting forever and hopefully you don't add any new late payments. |
| Inquiries | 2 Years |
| Collection | 7 Years |
| Charge-Offs | 7 Years |
| Repossession | 7 Years |
| Bankruptcy | 7-10 Years |
| Evictions | 7 Years |
| Medical Bills | 7 Years |
| Student Loans | Open Accounts can last a lifetime. Closed accounts can last 7 years. Most of the time Lenders never close student loans because there is no statue of limitation on the debt so if you don't get them removed, they can still hold you back 10–25+ years down the line. |
3️⃣ Do It Yourself ( Free But Understand This Takes Time. )
- You Might Research The Right Things. You Might Research The Wrong Things.
- If You Do Research The Right Things You Might Understand It Or You Might Not.
- If You Do Understand It You Might Do It Right Or You Might Do It Wrong.
Bottom Line You Keep Going Until You Get It Right And That Will Take However Long It Needs To Take. Question Is Do You Have That Time To Wait ? Probably Not but That's Your Decision.
4️⃣ Find someone who will accept you with your situation ( THIS IS THE TRAP )
I Guarantee if a company ever told you, WE ACCEPT BAD CREDIT. They are legally about to Rob you blind. And I will prove it. Take a look at Interest Rates where I explain to you how much life is costing you with Having Good Credit Vs Bad Credit.
What Credit Repair Actually Does
Credit Repair DOES NOT DELETE THE DEBT ‼️
No You DO NOT Owe The DEBT COLLECTOR. But You DO OWE The Original Creditor.
The Purpose Of Credit Repair Is To Hide The Negative Items From Your Report So That They No Longer Hold You Back. So Now You Can Get Approved For Things But You Do Still Owe The Original Creditor. But It DOES NOT MEAN THE DEBT IS DELETED.
So Why Not Just Pay It?
- 9/10 If You Have A Collection Your Information Has Been Passed On To A 3rd Party Debt Collector That You NEVER Did Business With So Therefore You DO NOT OWE THEM ‼️
- Every State Has A Statue Limitation On When A Creditor Can Collect On A Debt 💸 A lot Of Times Consumers Don't Realize That They Almost Are Scott Free Of Paying A Debt But When They Pay A Small Payment THE CLOCK STARTS OVER
- If You Pay Them It Will Be Harder To Get Removed Because Why Would Anyone Pay A Debt That Doesn't Belong To Them. So You Look Guilty
- Paying Them DOES NOT REMOVE IT FROM YOUR CREDIT REPORT
- If You Pay Them In Full It Will Show Up As A PAID COLLECTION
- If You Fall For That Letter Saying Pay 30-40% Off It Will Say SETTLED FOR LESS THAN FULL BALANCE
So When It Comes To Your Credit REPORT. Regardless Of If You Pay Some Or All Of Your Collections. It DOES NOT HELP YOU AT ALL.
The Smart Approach:
- If You're Ever Behind On an OPEN ACCOUNT Yes it is safe to get on a payment plan etc to pay it down
- But if that account has ALREADY BEEN CLOSED & SENT TO COLLECTIONS It's better to get it removed FIRST & Then Settle The Debt
- Because If You Settle First, It Will Still Be On Your Credit Report And That Doesn't Help You
Credit Repair Is Still Important. Look at it as if you just got your RECORD EXPUNGED. Just because you get your record expunged doesn't mean you didn't do the crime and do the time. But when you apply for jobs THEY DON'T SEE THE FELONIES ETC…
So in this case just because you get something removed from your report doesn't mean you don't have collections etc but when you're applying for things. THEY DON'T SEE THEM…But yes you still owe the debt WITH THE ORIGINAL CREDITOR
Credit SCORE
Your Credit Score = Your RESUME
( What Makes You Qualify To Apply )
A Good Resume Does Not Mean You Automatically Got The Job. The Resume Is Only Enough For The Employer To CONSIDER YOU.
For Example: A Trucking Company Is Hiring On The Flyer It Says " MUST HAVE VALID CDL " I Can't Even APPLY Without Having A CDL. But Just Because I Have A CDL That Doesn't Mean I Will Get The Job. I'll Still Have To Complete A Interview & Background Check.
Just Like A Resume Your Credit Score Makes You QUALIFIED TO APPLY. ( Example: You Must Have A 650 Credit Score To Apply For This Apartment )
- What If 12 Other People Also Have A 650? Why Should They Choose You ?
- Just Because You Might Have A 650 Credit Score Doesn't Mean You Will Be Approved.
- You Just QUALIFY TO APPLY.
Credit Card Application
Credit Card Application = The INTERVIEW
When applying for credit, several factors influence approval, including your income, existing debt, employment history, and overall financial profile. However, what many people don't realize is that even with a 700+ credit score and no collections, your application can still be negatively impacted by inaccurate or inconsistent personal information.
Credit bureaus rely heavily on personal identifiers to verify identity. If your name or details appear differently across reports—for example, Cordell D. Collins on one bureau, Cordell Collins on another, and Cordell Collins Jr. on a third—those discrepancies can cause verification issues. On paper, these variations can appear as separate individuals. The last thing you want to do is be held responsible for someone's else mistakes.
Ultimately what you want to see on your credit report is ONE NAME, ONE DOB, & ONE EMPLOYER. All 3 of them should MATCH TO THE T.
Many consumers have multiple name variations and outdated addresses listed on their credit reports. This can trigger red flags during the application process, leading lenders to question identity verification, suspect potential fraud, or confuse you with another individual who shares the same name. While this is not a common reason for denial, it does happen—and I've seen it occur.
To avoid surprises: The best way to prevent and correct this issue while undergoing credit repair is to ensure that the address on your government-issued ID matches your current residence.
Consistency and accuracy play a critical role in protecting your credit profile and improving approval outcomes.
Credit REPORT
Credit Report = The BACKGROUND CHECK
( This Is What Gets You Approved Or Denied )
Derogatory Marks Are Like Felonies. You Can Have The Best Resume In The World Along With All The Work Experience. The Chances Of You Becoming Manager At Any Establishment With Armed Robbery On Your Record Is Slim. A lot of times people often downplay their credit reports.
Don't ever think just because you only have a "few negative items" or only owe small debts that your credit report is " NOT THAT BAD " In Most Cases 1 Collection can and will get you denied regardless of the amount owed.
Smaller collections are actually worse. A $10,000 collection makes sense but when you have small collections you just make yourself look very irresponsible. If You couldn't handle a $300 credit card, Why should anyone trust you with a $30,000 auto loan?
You Can Have A 750 Credit Score 1 Collection Can Get You Denied. Having A Bankruptcy On Your Report Is Like Committing Murder. It's The Absolute Worst Thing You Can Have On Your Credit Report.
Good Credit Report Vs Bad Credit Report
Good Credit Report - This Is What You Want To See
- This Person Has 0 Late Payments
- 0 Collections
- 0 Public Records ( Which would also be considered a Derogatory account )
- Less Than 2 Inquiries Per Credit Bureau
- If Your Report Doesn't Look Like This YOU NEED CREDIT REPAIR.
Bad Credit Report - This Is What You Don't Want To See
- This Person Has 2 Delinquent Accounts ( meaning accounts with late payments)
- They Also Have A Total Of 12 Derogatory Accounts ( Meaning Accounts In Negative Standing Such As Repos, Charge-offs, Evictions Etc ) 2 Collections
- They Also Have 3 Public Records ( usually bankruptcies )
That's A Total Of 19 Negative Accounts. That's Not Including The 22 Inquiries.
SideNote: Your Report Is Always Worse On Paper Than Real Life. You Might Have 1 Collection With T-Mobile But If That Collection Is Reporting On Transunion, Experian, & Equifax, On Paper That's 3 Collections. In Conclusion This Report Is HORRIBLE. Would You Loan Someone Money If You Knew For A Fact They Owed 19 People?
Different Types Of Credit (Credit Mix + Credit History = Credit Portfolio)
Revolving Credit - Credit Cards 💳
Revolving Accounts that would generally have a different amount due each month depending on the current balance. The full balance is not required to be paid in order to keep the account in good standing. Interest is accumulated each month that a balance is carried over into the following month.
Installment Credit
- Auto Loan
- Mortgage Loan
- Student Loans
- Personal Loans
- Secured Loans
Open Credit
- Utilities
- Phone Bill
- Rent
Primary Account vs Authorized User
| Primary Account | Authorized User |
|---|---|
| You are the owner of the account. You have full responsibility of everything that comes with the account. | A primary account holder has the option to add an authorized user to their account. They can use the card but the responsibility and owner of the account is the primary account owner. |
Different Types Of Revolving Accounts
Credit Cards Issued By Banks Or Credit Unions
• Always backed by familiar logos such as Visa, Mastercard, American Express, or Discover.
• Generally A 680+ Would Get You Approved
• Multiple options available for customers who have no credit to established credit.
Credit Cards Issued By Retail Stores
• Store credit cards are great for saving money on purchases at your favorite stores.
• Generally, a minimum of 640+ credit score will get you approved for a retail store credit card.
Examples: Amazon Prime Store Card, Macy's Credit Card, Target RedCard, Walmart Rewards Mastercard
Credit Cards Issued By Oil & Gas Companies
• These cards are great for saving money at the gas pump.
Examples: ExxonMobil Smart Card, BP Credit Card, Shell Fuel Rewards Card, Techron Advantage Card (Texaco & Chevron)
Installment Accounts
• Accounts with a fixed monthly payment for a fixed period of time.
• Interest could be fixed or variable.
Examples: Auto Loans, Mortgage Loans, Student Loans, Credit Builder Loans, Personal Loans
Would It Be Better To Just Pay My Collections Off ?
9/10 If You Have A Collection Your Information Has Been Passed On To A 3rd Party Debt Collector That You NEVER Did Business With So Therefore You DO NOT OWE THEM !!
Why Pay A Company You Don't Owe ? Even If It Were The Original Creditor Paying Them DOES NOT REMOVE IT FROM YOUR CREDIT REPORT.
- If You Fall For That Letter Saying Pay 30-40% Off And We Will Say SETTLE This For You. It Will Still Be On Your Credit Report As A Paid Collection, SETTLED FOR LESS THAN FULL BALANCE Which Is Still A Negative Account And That DOES NOT Help You.
- Not Only Were You Already Behind 120-180 Days But When You Finally Decided To Pay Them, They Didn't Even Get All Of Their Money ? It Doesn't Look Good
- If You Pay Them IN FULL It Will Still Show Up As A PAID COLLECTION Which Is Still A Negative Account And That DOES NOT Help You.
EXAMPLE: Let's Say I Go To Jail For Stealing Money Out Of a Walmart's Register. So I Have Did My Time For It. When I Get Out Of Jail, I Apply To Work For Chase Bank Do You Think They Will Hire Me ? I Can't Say " BUT I WENT TO JAIL FOR IT " Because It Should Never Happened To Begin With. No Difference Here. So You're Better Off Getting It Removed. Paying A Collection Doesn't Help Your Credibility. Would You Continuously Lend Money To Someone Who Never Pays Back On Time ?
The Smart Approach:
Nothing Wrong With Settling A Debt. It's Just WHEN YOU SETTLE IT. Please Allow Me To Explain.
- If You're Ever Behind On an OPEN ACCOUNT Yes it is safe to get on a payment plan etc to pay it down
- But if that account has ALREADY BEEN CLOSED & SENT TO COLLECTIONS It's better to get it removed FIRST & Then Settle The Debt
Fun Fact:
Every state Has a Statute of limitation on when they can collect a debt. Each state sets different time limits for different categories of debt. The clock doesn't run the same for everything.
Common Debt Categories That Matter
Illinois Example (Very Important)
How Statutes of Limitation Actually Work
Each category can have a different statute — even within the same state.
What Starts the Clock?
The statute of limitation clock usually starts at:
- Date of first delinquency (DOFD)
- OR date of last payment (varies by state & debt type)
Any of the following can RESET the clock:
- Making a payment
- Acknowledging the debt in writing
- Entering a payment agreement
A lot Of Times consumers don't realize that they almost are scott free of paying a debt, and when creditors & debt collectors convince you to get on a payment plan and you make that first small payment, THE CLOCK STARTS OVER. This is why clients should NEVER casually agree to pay old debt without advice. If You Pay Them It Will Be Harder To Get Removed Because Why Would Anyone Pay A Debt That Doesn't Belong To Them. So You Look Guilty.
What Is A Collection Account?
A collection account is a negative credit item that appears when a bill goes unpaid for a long period and the original creditor sends or sells the debt to a collection agency.
Common types of collection accounts
- Credit cards
- Medical bills
- Utility bills
- Phone/cable/internet bills
- Auto loan deficiencies
- Apartment or rental balances
Why collections are serious
- They can drop your score 50–150+ points
- They stay on your credit report for 7 years from the first missed payment
They make it harder to get:
- Credit cards
- Auto loans
- Mortgages
- Apartments
Paid vs. unpaid collections
- Unpaid collections obviously will still hurt your score, BUT Paying a collection does NOT guarantee removal
- Paid collection → Settled for less than full balance, A collection is still a collection at the end of the day and needs to be removed from your profile. If you get out of jail for robbery even though you did your time will jobs still look at you sideways?
What Are Student Loans?
A student loan is borrowed money used to pay for education that you must repay—with interest—after (and sometimes during) school.
🏦 The 2 Main Types of Student Loans
1. Federal Student Loans
Issued by the U.S. government
Pros:
- Lower interest rates
- Flexible repayment plans
- Deferment & forbearance options
- Possible loan forgiveness
Cons:
- Still hard to discharge in bankruptcy
Common federal loans: Direct Subsidized Loans, Direct Unsubsidized Loans, PLUS Loans (parents or grad students)
2. Private Student Loans
Issued by banks, credit unions, or lenders
Pros:
- Can cover gaps federal loans don't
- Faster approval sometimes
Cons:
- Higher interest rates
- Credit-based approval
- Fewer protections
- Almost never forgiven
⏳ When Do You Start Paying Them Back?
- Usually 6 months after leaving school (grace period)
- Interest may build while you're still in school
- Payments can last 10–25+ years if not managed properly
📉 How Student Loans Affect Credit
Student loans:
- Appear as installment loans
- Can help credit if paid on time
Can destroy credit if:
- Late
- Defaulted
- Sent to collections
What Is An Eviction?
An eviction is a legal process where a landlord forces a tenant to move out of a rental property—usually because the tenant violated the lease or failed to pay rent.
🏠 Common Reasons Evictions Happen
- Non-payment of rent (most common)
- Repeated late payments
- Violating lease terms (unauthorized occupants, pets, damage)
- Illegal activity
- Staying after the lease ends (holdover tenant)
⚖️ How the Eviction Process Works (Simple Version)
- Notice is given (Pay rent, fix the issue, or leave by a certain date)
- Court filing If the issue isn't resolved, the landlord files an eviction case
- Court judgment A judge decides whether the tenant must leave
- Physical removal (if necessary) Law enforcement may remove the tenant if they don't leave voluntarily
⚠️ You're not officially evicted until there's a court judgment—not just a notice or threat.
📄 Eviction vs Eviction Filing (Important Difference)
- Eviction notice → ⚠️ Warning (not on your record)
- Eviction filing → ⚠️ Court case (can show up in tenant screenings)
- Eviction judgment → ❌ The real damage (harder to remove)
Even dismissed cases can still hurt rental approvals.
⏳ How Long an Eviction Stays on Record
- Tenant screening reports: 7 years
- Court records: varies by state
- Collections tied to eviction: 7 years
That's why evictions hurt housing approvals more than credit cards do.
What Are Medical Bills?
A medical bill is a charge you receive for healthcare services that were provided to you—but not fully paid for by insurance (or not insured at all).
Medical bills can include charges for:
- Doctor visits
- Emergency room visits
- Hospital stays
- Surgeries
- Ambulance rides
- Lab work & imaging (X-rays, MRIs, blood tests)
- Prescriptions
- Mental health services
What happens if a medical bill isn't paid
- Late fees may apply
- It can be sent to collections
- It can appear on your credit report if:
- It's over $500, and
- It's unpaid for 12+ months
What Is A Charge-Off?
A charge-off account is a debt that a lender has decided is unlikely to be collected, so they mark it as a loss in their accounting—but you still owe the money.
How a charge-off happens (simple timeline)
- You miss payments (usually 120–180 days late)
- The lender gives up trying to collect
- They charge off the account as a loss
- The debt may:
- Stay with the original lender, or
- Be sold to a collection agency
Important truths about charge-offs
- Not forgiven – you still legally owe the debt
- Not the same as a collection, but they often come together
- Very negative on your credit
- Can stay on your credit report for 7 years from first delinquency
What Is A Repossession?
A repossession (often called a repo) happens when a lender takes back property you're financing—most commonly a car—because payments weren't made as agreed.
How a repossession happens (simple timeline)
- You finance a vehicle (or other property)
- You miss payments (often 60–90 days late, varies by state & contract)
- The lender declares default
- The vehicle is repossessed (often without warning)
- The lender may:
- Sell the vehicle at auction
- Bill you for the remaining balance (deficiency balance)
Important things to know
- Repossession does NOT erase the debt
- It's a major negative on your credit
- It can stay on your credit report for 7 years from the first missed payment
- You may still owe money after the car is taken
Deficiency balance (very important)
If you owed $18,000 and the car sells for $11,000:
- $7,000 = deficiency balance
- Plus fees (towing, storage, auction costs)
- That balance can be sent to collections or charged off
Voluntary vs involuntary repossession
- Voluntary repo: You turn in the vehicle
- Involuntary repo: The lender takes it
⚠️ Credit impact is the same for both
What Is Bankruptcy?
A bankruptcy is a legal process that gives a person or business relief from overwhelming debt when they can no longer afford to pay what they owe.
90%+ of personal bankruptcies are either:
- Chapter 7
- Chapter 13
Everything else is rare and situational.
⚠️ Credit Impact (Quick Truth)
- Bankruptcy stays on your credit report 7–10 years
- Scores usually drop 150–350+ points
💳 Debts That DO Get Wiped Out (Usually)
These are called dischargeable debts:
- Credit cards
- Medical bills
- Personal loans
- Payday loans
- Collections & charge-offs
- Old utility bills
- Certain business debts
🚫 Debts That DO NOT Get Wiped Out (Usually)
These survive bankruptcy:
- Child support & alimony
- Most student loans
- Recent income taxes
- Court fines & criminal restitution
- Debts from fraud
- Most government-backed loans
Key things people misunderstand
- Paying a public record like bankruptcy for example does not automatically remove it from your credit report
- It doesn't disappear because it's old (until time limits expire)
- Removing it often requires legal accuracy disputes or completion
- Just because your bankruptcy has been Dismissed or discharged doesn't mean it will not report on your credit report
What Are Public Records?
A public record on a credit report is a negative legal or financial event that comes from court filings or government records and is reported to the credit bureaus because it involves unpaid obligations or legal responsibility.
Historically, these included:
- Bankruptcy (Chapter 7, 11, 13) ✅ still reported
- Judgments (court-ordered debts)
- Tax liens (unpaid federal or state taxes)
- Civil lawsuits
- Evictions
⚠️ Important update:
Today, bankruptcy is the main public record that still appears directly on credit reports. Most judgments, tax liens, and civil suits no longer appear due to reporting rule changes—but they can still exist in court records and affect things like employment, housing, or lending decisions.
How public records affect your credit
- Considered major derogatory items
- Can cause large score drops (100+ points)
- Signal high risk to lenders
- Stay on your credit report for a long time
How long public records stay on your credit
- Chapter 7 bankruptcy: 10 years
- Chapter 13 bankruptcy: 7 years (sometimes sooner if completed early)
- Other public records: Usually not reported anymore, but still legally valid elsewhere
Key things people misunderstand
- Paying a public record like bankruptcy for example does not automatically remove it
- It doesn't disappear because it's old (until time limits expire)
- Removing it often requires legal accuracy disputes or completion
What Is ChexSystems?
ChexSystems is a consumer reporting agency that banks and credit unions use to decide whether to approve or deny you for checking and savings accounts.
It's like a credit report—but for bank accounts, not loans or credit cards.
What ChexSystems tracks
ChexSystems collects information about negative banking activity, including:
- Unpaid overdrafts
- Negative balances left unpaid
- Account closures for cause
- Suspected fraud
- Excessive bounced checks
- Abandoned accounts with balances owed
It does NOT track credit cards, loans, or credit scores.
How it affects you
If you have negative info in ChexSystems, banks may:
- Deny you a checking or savings account
- You can NEVER Get a business loan while In chexsystems
- Require a second-chance account
- Limit features (no overdraft, no checks)
- Charge higher fees
- Won't qualify for pay in four options like Afterpay, Klarna, Acima, Zip, Affirm, PayPal Etc
This is why people say: "My credit is good, but the bank still denied me."
How long ChexSystems stays on your record
- Most negative items stay up to 5 years
- Even small amounts (like $50–$200) can block approvals
- Paying the debt does not automatically remove it
What People Don't Realize
If you are in chexsystems or early warning then that means that you have been violated. Read 15 USC 6802- 15 USC 6805. If you read your terms and conditions and privacy agreements of your credit card accounts banking information it tells you that they do not share your personal information with any 3rd party non affiliate….
Third Party Non-Affiliates Include:
- Lexis Nexis
- Experian
- Equifax
- Transunion
- Early Warning System
- ChexSystems
What we don't realize it when we open up these accounts we have the option to opt out so they don't share our information but they don't out right tell us that in plain English either. But in there privacy agreements and terms and conditions it states that they don't but yet they do anyway which is a violation.
What Is Early Warning Services?
Early Warning Services (often just called Early Warning or EWS) is a consumer reporting agency used by banks to decide whether to approve you for checking and savings accounts and to monitor for fraud.
It's similar to ChexSystems—but more powerful—and is heavily used by major banks.
What Early Warning tracks
Early Warning Services collects:
- Bank account openings & closures
- Unpaid negative balances
- Overdraft abuse
- Suspected fraud or identity risk
- Transaction behavior patterns
- Zelle-related activity
- Account misuse flags
Unlike ChexSystems, Early Warning is often real-time and behavior-based.
Many top U.S. banks rely on Early Warning, including:
- Chase
- Bank of America
- Wells Fargo
- Capital One
- PNC
If Early Warning flags you:
- You may be denied instantly
- No explanation from the bank
- Even "second-chance" accounts may be blocked
- Zelle can be restricted or shut down
How long Early Warning stays on your record
- Typically up to 5 years
- Fraud-related flags may last longer
- Paying a balance does not guarantee removal
What Is Debt Consolidation?
Debt consolidation is a financial strategy where you combine multiple debts into one single payment, usually with the goal of lowering your interest rate, reducing your monthly payment, or simplifying your finances.
Why people do it (what's advertised)
- One payment instead of many
- Lower interest rate (sometimes)
- Easier to stay organized
- Can help cash flow each month
Important downsides to know
- Does NOT erase debt — you still owe it
- Can hurt your credit if mismanaged
- Some options require good credit
- Risky if you rack up new debt afterward
- Secured options (like home equity) put assets at risk
🚨 Reasons Why I Don't Recommend Debt Consolidation
So whenever you apply for debt consolidation essentially all they will do is combine all of your debt into one big debt right? Now tell me what's stopping you from doing this yourself?
Then they will give you a monthly fee. And in most cases, debt consolidation does include interest. So you just made your debt even bigger.
What They Don't Tell You:
They don't actually start paying off any debt until everything is paid off. So if that's the case you could have just paid off everything over time yourself.
And to make matters worse — when it's all said and done any open accounts you had will be closed. And that doesn't benefit you at all.
My Recommendation:
I personally do not recommend debt consolidation at all, but debt settlement may be a better approach.
Help Your Kids Build Credit
Adding a child as an authorized user on your credit card can help them begin building their credit history early. This can lead to better credit offers, lower interest rates, auto loans, mortgages, and more as they get older.
Our parents weren't taught about credit—and that's not their fault. But today, we know better. You are responsible for your children's financial future. Getting a credit card with one of these banks and adding them as an authorized user can give your children the head start you never had.
Note: Authorized user reporting policies vary by issuer. Responsible use required.
TO DO LIST
Action items to help boost your credit score and build strong credit
(THINGS YOU SHOULD BE DOING ON YOUR END)
Setting Up Your Client Portal
Within 4 Business Days After Getting Started my support team should have sent you a email for you to access your portal. The sole purpose of your client portal is to track your own progress and upload documents when necessary. Search for TRACK YOUR RESULTS or CLIENT PORTAL LOGIN in your email and spam. If you do not see the email with the username and password for your online client portal please text my team to make sure it gets resent out. (312) 584-9969
Important Notice: Anytime you upload any documents inside your portal you must notify us to check it at 312-584-9969 or [email protected]
Log into your portal directly on the website: https://secure.scorexer.com/Portal/login.jsp
As your credit journey continues you can expect phone calls, emails or mail from: the original creditors of whoever you have done business with, Various Debt collectors, Credit reporting agencies such as Transunion Equifax And Experian. YOU DO NOT have to answer any calls or respond to any emails or mail. We will notify you via text or email if there is anything you need to do on your end. Any mail or emails you receive you can upload them inside of your portal. Also if you feel like you may have something that may help us with the process. Such as; proof you or your insurance company paid off certain accounts that are in collections, proof that you were a victim of identity theft like a police report. Screenshots of messages, emails, or letters that you may have gotten in the mail that is important to your situation; FEEL FREE TO UPLOAD THEM INTO YOUR PORTAL. When It Comes To The Password For Your Client Portal. You Are Allowed To Change Your Password To Whatever You Want. Also You Can Upload Documents Here.
Login Credentials
MAKE SURE YOUR PASSWORD IS:
Credit@2025
with a Capital "C"
- If you can't use Credit@2025, add a period at the end so Credit@2025.
- If That Doesn't Work Please Use Credit@2025!
- If You Have Any Trouble Contact Customer Service. (877) 875-4347
Please be sure to text 312-584-9969 or email [email protected] with your first and last name after you change it.
Login Here:
https://member.identityiq.com/
If you have any trouble contact IdentityIQ Customer Service: (877) 875-4347
Password Change Required
I know the repeated messages are frustrating - this isn't your fault. And neither is it ours.
Unfortunately MFSN is having system issues (password resets, account closures, delays), which is preventing us from moving forward with your file. To avoid further interruptions, we will no longer be using MyFreeScoreNow for credit monitoring.
What To Do:
Step 1: ONLY IF YOU ALREADY HAD AN ACCOUNT BEFORE. Call customer service (877) 875-4347 and tell them you are no longer using their service and you want to do a HARD CANCEL. When they do a hard cancel they will delete you out the system and you can re sign up using one of the links below. Doing this will allow you to avoid paying back pay for your time absent. And also it will allow us to Directly Gain Access to your credit report when you use the direct link.
Step 2: Sign up using one of the direct links below.
Major Banks Sign up here 👉 Major Banks Link
Prepaid Banks Sign Up Here 👉 Prepaid Banks Link
Password: Credit@2025 (capital C)
If you can't use the Credit@2025 add a period at the end so Credit@2025. If That Doesn't Work Please Use Credit@2025!
Step 3: After Creating the account Be sure to log in without using Face ID to make sure the password is good and the account is actually ready to go.
Step 4: Once completed, please text 312-584-9969 with your first/last name & login credentials as we will no longer check on this for you until notified.
Side Note: If you already paid for MFSN this month, you can call and see if they'll give you a refund (888) 548-2008. If not, no worries just let it run out, cancel before next payment, then switch over.
Canceling Your Credit Monitoring Service
If you choose not to continue your monthly credit monitoring subscription, that is entirely your right. However, please understand that active credit monitoring is required for us to access your credit reports and continue working on your profile.
Important
If your credit monitoring service is canceled, we will no longer be able to provide round results or perform any additional work on your account. This does not mean that no results exist - it simply means we no longer have access to your credit reports to review or communicate updates.
Once monitoring is canceled, your file is automatically closed and the credit repair process is terminated. Any work completed up to that point will be considered final. No refunds will be issued, as services were rendered and further progress was prevented by the client. This policy is clearly disclosed in our refund policy, and every client was acknowledged about the $33 monthly fee when they completed the onboarding form.
If you have not already signed up for IdentityIQ:
Use the link below for the $33 Monthly Setup
Please make sure your password is Credit@2025
Major Banks: Sign Up Here
Prepaid Banks: Sign Up Here
⚠️ Do NOT dispute the charge with your bank, request a chargeback, or have your bank block the credit monitoring company from charging your card.
When this happens it creates financial penalties for the provider. That company already deposited that money into THEIR BANK ACCOUNT. When you DISPUTE it, now that money is being taken away from that company for fees you LEGALLY AGREED TO. BY LAW now that company can come after you. Chargebacks may also expose you to potential collection activity.
If you wish to cancel properly, please follow these steps instead:
1. Log into your mobile app or contact the credit monitoring company's customer service directly to cancel your subscription.
2. Ask whether a refund is available - in some cases, refunds may be possible if the charge occurred within the last 7 days.
TO DO LIST Template
One of the more common questions clients have is "IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD BE DOING ON MY END?" When it comes to credit repair itself the only thing you should be doing on your end is paying attention to the "THINGS THAT CAN HOLD YOU BACK".
However, building your credit scores and your credit profile is a whole other conversation. That said, The TO-DO-LIST was designed to help build payment history, strengthen your credit profile, build better relationships with banks, and help you qualify for things such as credit cards, auto loans, mortgage loans and even personal & business loans to accelerate the overall credit restoration process.
🚨 Important Notice
- ✅ You DO NOT HAVE TO WAIT FOR EVERYTHING TO BE DELETED to start on your to do list. YOU CAN START ON THIS NOW.
- ✅ If a step has already been completed and is already active on your credit report you can Skip To The Next Step.
- ⚠️ STEP 2 IS ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT for those who are looking to refinance or finance a car or apply for any loans — personal & business.
- ✅ Even if you can't do Steps 1-5… YOU CAN DO STEP 6 & You Can Start RIGHT NOW.
- ⚠️ If you are in ChexSystems or Early Warnings you may not be able to do steps 1 & 2. If this is the case, go to my FAQ or DIY Tab to see how to get removed.
Are You A Visual Learner? 🎥
Zoom recordings explaining each step will be emailed for reference. To view the recordings please check your email & spam. Search for "TO DO LIST" — if you do not see them please text (312) 584-9969 and my team will resend them to you promptly.
⚠️ REMINDER
CREDIT REPAIR focuses strictly on your CREDIT REPORT. This means I CAN NEVER be the reason your credit score has dropped ⬇️ or just hasn't gone up. Although I can't make your scores go up ⬆️ I can give you a 10 Step Action Plan to increase your scores and build a strong profile. This is how we raise our scores from the 400s to the 700s.
What Happens If I Don't Complete My To Do List?
Although it is in every client's best interest to complete this phase of the program, please understand that this to-do-list is NOT MANDATORY. I cannot force anyone into completing this phase nor will I continuously follow up or pressure clients to do so. However, for clients who may have questions, you can always book a consultation if you're confused about a certain step.
I will show two examples below. One will display someone who watched the recordings and actually did the TO DO LIST. The other will show someone who just received credit repair but didn't do the TO DO LIST — and then later completed the steps after noticing no change in their credit scores.
If we take a close look we can see this particular client has completed four rounds with us and are currently awaiting for their Round 5 to end. This client started with 76 negative items & has gotten over 66 DELETED (at the time of this screenshot) WHICH IS PHENOMENAL‼️ But their scores haven't really went anywhere. They are still just below the 600s. No steps in the to do list have been completed.
Now let's look at this client. They are 6 rounds in and are currently awaiting for their round 7 to end. Has gotten 41 Deletions — which is 25 less than 66 — but yet they went from being in the 500s to being in the 700s. This client ACTUALLY DID THE TO DO LIST.
Whenever someone tags me in a post on social media or sees me post a client going from the 400s to the 700s, all clients who received no score increases instantly start feeling left out wondering "why didn't my scores go up?" Some will even get mad and reach out claiming "I haven't seen anything" as if I didn't do my job. But you paid me for CREDIT REPAIR. So I have been doing my job. And that's when I have to ask… DID YOU COMPLETE THE TO DO LIST?
If you pay attention to the dates on the far right you will notice this is the same exact client above. The moment she finally did her TO DO LIST, her scores shot up almost to the 800s.
So once again — CREDIT REPAIR DOES NOT BOOST YOUR SCORE. Had she completed the to do list earlier, she could have been in the 700 club. Without it, she would have just had a clean credit report but her scores would have still been in the 584–594 range. At the end of the day, whether you have a 584, 684, or 784 credit score, it's still the CREDIT REPORT that will get you approved or denied. By me cleaning up your credit report I am doing my part. I cannot complete the to do list for you.
To Do List Zoom Recordings
Are you a visual learner?
Go to your email and search for "Dear Credit Client" or [email protected] to find multiple recordings where I break down how to build up your credit scores, credit report, and credit profile.
If you do not see this email, please text (312) 584-9969 and I will make sure it gets resent out.
To Do List Step 1
Become An Authorized User
If you have a family member or a close friend who has good credit, ask them to add you on their credit cards as an Authorized User. This can help improve your scores WITHOUT AFFECTING THEM AT ALL.
When you are added to a credit card it's going to show up on your credit report as an authorized user (this lets the banks know that you have ACCESS to that card).
Example: If someone has a $10,000 Chase credit card and they had it for 10 years, the utilization is reporting below 10%, and they are always on top of their bill - this does multiple things for you:
- 1) Payment History (35% of your credit score) - It gives you 10 years worth of PAYMENT HISTORY
- 2) Utilization (30% of your credit score) - That $10,000 limit gets added to your Debt To Income Ratio
- 3) Credit Mix (10% of your credit score) - That credit card would be considered a revolving account
- 4) Credit Age (15% of your credit score) - It also would be 10 years worth of Credit Age History
So this is why people's scores go up whenever they purchase tradelines.
If someone is skeptical about adding you as an authorized user, please explain this to them:
YOU DO NOT NEED THE CARD! They can have it sent to them and they can then cut it up. You just need it to piggy back off the history.
Whenever someone adds you as an authorized user it could affect you, but NEVER THEM. Reason being is because when they add you on that account, usually it means that you have access to THAT ACCOUNT. Which means whatever happens with that account YOU'RE JUST AS RESPONSIBLE. Now of course that won't be the case if they sent the card to them and cut it up, but that's still how banks & lenders will look at it.
On the flip side you can be late on every credit card you have and it would not affect them at all. They can be late for every other credit card they have as well without affecting you negatively. The only thing that matters are the specific accounts that you are listed as a AUTHORIZED USER.
Good Authorized User Vs Bad: Things To Look For
GOOD AU - Things To Look For:
- Payment History - 35% Of Your Credit Score. This Account Has No Late Payments
- Credit History - 15% Of Your Credit Score. This Account Was Opened In 2015 So That's 11 Years Worth Of Credit History (Bank's Like To See 5+ Years)
- Credit Limit - Although We Would Prefer Something Over A 5K Limit, $2,500 Is Not Bad Especially If You Don't Already Have Your Own Account With That Limit. Keep In Mind It Has The History To Back It.
- Credit Card Utilization - 10% Of Your Credit Score. This Credit Limit Is $2,500 Which Means 10% Is $250. And 30% = $750. The Balance Is Only $247 Which Means It's Under 10%. THAT'S WONDERFUL.
This AU IS GOOD TO GO
BAD AU - Red Flags:
- Payment History - This Account Has Multiple Late Payments (RED FLAG)
- Credit History - Only 3 Years Old. The Banks Like To See 5+ Years. 3 Is Only Acceptable If Everything Else Checks Off or if it is better than your actual credit age itself.
- Credit Limit - $550. The Banks Like To See A Minimum 5K Limit
- Credit Card Utilization - This Credit Limit Is $550 Which Means 10% Is $55. And 30% = $165. With a balance of $711 which is higher than the actual credit limit. This Card Is Clearly Maxed Out
This AU Is A NO GO. If you're listed on a card like this you need to ask the primary owner to remove you immediately or call the creditor for help.
To Do List Step 2
Open Up A ( Personal ) Navy Federal Account - Checking & Savings
Deposit $100 in each account. +1-888-842-6328
Call and say: "Hello, my granddad was in the navy. He's no longer with us but I remember before he passed he said I can get an account with you guys. I don't remember his access code but I would still like to open a PERSONAL CHECKING AND SAVINGS account if possible."
They will then ask you two questions:
- Was your granddad in the Navy, Marines, Army, or Military? (You can say Military)
- How did he leave? (Say "Honorable")
If they ask why you want an account with them, tell them you want to build a LONG TERM RELATIONSHIP WITH THEM.
They're going to ask you what type of account you want to open. Say regular personal checking and savings. You will need to deposit a minimum $10-$20 to open the account. If you can, I recommend putting $100 in both.
Also if you get direct deposit, I prefer you to have it transferred to Navy Federal or at least half. Trust me - this will benefit you a few months from now when we start applying for things.
To Do List Step 3
Call Or Go Into Navy Federal & Open Up A Secured Pledge Loan For $2,500
ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT for those who are looking to refinance or finance a car, or apply for any loans - personal & business.
They will take that $2,500 out of your savings account and deposit it into a SEPARATE SAVINGS ACCOUNT.
If you don't have $2,500, try $1,500
If you don't have $1,500, try $1,000
If you don't have $1,000, try $500
If you don't have $500, try $250
OBVIOUSLY THE MORE THE BETTER
Then you wait 3 days and call back and say you want to pay it off 90% and leave the rest on autopay.
Important
DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT pay off the full balance. You want to leave a history of on-time payments. (35% of your credit score)
When you pay back 90%, they will take $2,250 out of the savings account and deposit it back into your checking account. Your new balance for the secured loan will be $250. For the next 12 months that $250 will be on autopay - every month they will take approximately $21.25 out of that separate savings account until it hits $0.
On your credit report it will show that you paid off a $2,250 loan even though you never actually took out an actual loan. You can take that same money and do it again!
SIDE NOTE: If you can't do this because maybe you owe Navy Federal, you can do this same strategy with other credit unions. Google "credit union near me" and open an account. Here are 3 more that are great for auto loans:
• Consumer CU - Interest rates as low as 5%, fund up to 100% of the car's book value, loan terms up to 84 months
• Digital Credit Union (DCU) - Interest rates as low as 5.74%, fund up to 130% of the car's book value, 84 month terms, delayed payment for 60 days
• PenFed CU - Rates as low as 4.49%, can finance up to 125% of the car's book value, can get pre-qualification without a hard inquiry
AFTER STEP 2 IS DONE: If you want to finance or refinance a car, wait until you have a CLEAN CREDIT REPORT. Then go directly to Navy Federal or whichever credit union you did your secured loan with. Ask them directly for an auto loan - they will give you the PAPER CHECK for the car so the dealership won't even have to run your credit giving you a million inquiries. The same applies for refinancing a car.
To Do List Step 4
Pay Down Any Credit Cards That Are Over 30%
⚠️ If You Don't Have Any Credit Cards Yet — Skip To Step 4.
If you have completed Step 3, you can do this immediately after getting your money back from the Secured Loan.
Bonus: If you are confused or in credit card debt — go watch the recording on "How To Use Credit Cards Correctly." There is a full training on how to get out of credit card debt. (Link at the bottom of this step.)
Rule #1
NEVER SPEND WHAT YOU DO NOT HAVE
How To Pay Your Credit Card Bill Correctly
When It Comes To Paying Down The Balance There Are Two Types Of People:
✅ Type 1: Pay After Every Purchase
( THIS IS THE SAFER ROUTE )
My lil sister prefers this method — her balance is always low. It keeps your utilization near 0% at all times, which is best for your score.
💳 Type 2: Let It Build Up Then Pay
( CORDELL'S PREFERRED METHOD )
I like the way the money looks in my actual bank account rather than on the credit card 😂 — just make sure you always pay before the statement date.
Pay down in this priority order:
• Preferably pay IN FULL
• If you can't pay in full, pay to where you only owe 10% or below
• If you can't get it under 10%, try to get it to where you only owe 30% or below
• If you can't get it under 30%, pay the minimum balance & go watch the recording on how to use credit cards correctly
Why This Matters: Credit card utilization makes up 30% of your credit score. Keeping balances below 10% of your limit gives you the best score boost. Even getting under 30% will make a noticeable difference.
Utilization Calculator
See your utilization and get personalized payment options
Your Utilization Rate
How To Use Credit Cards Correctly, Get Out Of Credit Card Debt & Avoid Interest
Watch the full Zoom recording for a step-by-step breakdown on how to use your credit cards correctly, eliminate debt, and never pay interest.
🎥 Recording: Click Here To Watch
Passcode: LUWoHW6*
To Do List Step 5
Get A Secured Credit Card
ONLY If You Don't Already Have At Least 2 Credit Cards With Limits At Least $500. The More The Better But Minimum $500. These are the banks I recommend getting a secured card from because they all graduate.
- Wealthy Intention LLC - Credit Builder Card
- US Bank
- Bank of America
- Discover
- Capital One
- Or You Can Get The Secured Credit Card Through Whoever You Currently Bank With.
By graduate it means after 6-9 months of on time payment they'll give you your deposit back and send you a new credit card which you will now be using the Bank's money vs your own.
Don't Feel Bad If You Don't Have Thousands Of Dollars To Put On A Secured Credit Card. My First Credit Card Was $400. My First Credit Limit Increase I Jumped To A $1,400 Credit Limit And Now Today It's At $5,300 & Is My Lowest Credit Card.
Capital One Secured Card Approval
Credit Limit Increased to $1,400
Now At $5,300 - My Lowest Credit Card Today
To Do List Step 6
Sign Up For 3-5 Credit Builder Accounts (the more the better)
Important Note: You want to make sure something is reporting to all 3 bureaus.
- THE PURPOSE OF THIS IS TO BUILD PAYMENT HISTORY & To Create A Good Credit Mix
- Before You Can Apply For Anything You Need To Establish Some Type Of Payment History.
- I have recommended the same exact ones I used when building my personal credit. But I want to stress the importance that YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SPEND ALL OF YOUR MONEY ON THIS. Do whatever is comfortable within your budget.
- Get A Minimum 3, The More The Better But You DO NOT NEED THEM ALL. (you don't want all revolving or all installments)
Self - $35 - Installment (whatever fits your budget)
Kickoff - $20 (Revolving)
EXPERIAN BOOST - FREE TO JOIN
Experian Boost detects bills you pay like:
Phone & Telecom: Cell phone bills, Landline phone bills, Cable or satellite TV, Internet service
Utilities: Electricity, Gas, Water, Sewer, Trash / waste management
Housing: Rent payments (usually paid online or through a supported platform)
Subscriptions & Streaming: Netflix, Hulu, Disney+, Spotify, HBO / Max, Other streaming services
Insurance (monthly payments only): Auto insurance, Homeowners insurance, Renters insurance, Life insurance, Pet insurance
(Health insurance does NOT qualify.)
Those payments get added to your Experian credit file.
Sign Up For Experian Boost Here
AVA - Installment $26
Pay $26/mo for 12 months towards a secured Ava loan.
After 12 months, you'll get your $300 loan back - just like saving $300
Credit Strong - $30 (Installment)
Sign Up For Credit Strong Here
When it comes to adding open credit such as rent and utility bills - ONLY DO THIS IF YOUR RENT & BILLS ARE ALWAYS PAID ON TIME
Credit Builder Account Summary
| Secured Loan | Installment - Whatever Is In Your Budget |
| Secured Credit Card | Revolving - Minimum $500 Limit (Which You Can Spend) |
| Kickoff | Revolving $20/Month |
| Tomo Credit Card | Revolving - Approvals Based off transactions |
| Credit Strong | Installment $30/Month |
| Ava | Installment $26/Month |
| Self | Installment $35/Month |
| Experian Boost | Open Credit (Phone, Cable, Light, Gas, Water, Auto Insurance, Homeowners Insurance, Subscription Apps Etc) |
If You Signed Up For Every Single Credit Builder Account It Will Cost You $111/Month. Look At It Like You're BUYING GOOD PAYMENT HISTORY.
To Do List Step 7
🎓 Pay Your Student Loans
🎓💳 Student Loan Strategy
HOW TO PROPERLY PAY STUDENT LOANS
AND NEVER MISS A PAYMENT
✍🏾 1. Know Your Loan Status First
Your payment requirements depend on your status:
🎓 In School
No payments required
⏸️ Grace Period
6 months after leaving — still no payments
💰 Repayment Status
Payments REQUIRED
⚠️ Deferment / Forbearance
Payments temporarily paused
👉 Most people mess up because they don't know when they leave grace period
📅 2. When Do Payments Start?
💡 Standard Rule: Payments begin 6 months after you graduate, drop below half-time, or leave school — this is called your GRACE PERIOD.
🧠 Example: Graduate May 2026 → Payments start November 2026
🔗 Check Your Exact Date:
- Go to studentaid.gov and log in
- Check your loan status, servicer name, and first payment due date
- Your servicer (Nelnet, Aidvantage, MOHELA, etc.) will also send emails
⚠️ 3. How People Accidentally Get Late Payments
- Ignoring emails from loan servicer
- Not updating address / email
- Assuming payments don't start yet
- Thinking loans are still paused (like during COVID)
👉 Late = 30 days past due → hits your credit report
💳 4. Best Way To Pay (Smart Strategy)
🔥 Option 1: Autopay (RECOMMENDED)
- Automatically pays monthly — never miss
- Often gives a 0.25% interest rate discount
- Eliminates all risk of forgetting
🔥 Option 2: Manual Pay (If Disciplined)
- Set reminders 7–10 days before due date
- Pay at least the minimum due
🔥 Option 3: Pay Early / Extra
- Reduces total interest paid
- Pays loan off faster
- Improves DTI (important for funding)
🚨 What If You Can't Afford Payments?
DO NOT just ignore it ❌
Instead, apply for one of these:
- 💰 Income-Driven Repayment (IDR) — payment based on what you earn
- ⏸️ Deferment — pause payments temporarily
- 🛑 Forbearance — pause if you're in hardship
👉 This keeps your account in good standing on your credit report
✅ Key Rules To Never Miss A Payment
- ✔️ Always know your due date
- ✔️ Set up autopay
- ✔️ Log in at least once per month
- ✔️ Keep contact info updated with your servicer
- ✔️ Open ALL emails from your servicer
To Do List Step 8
Apply For Credit Limit Increases
How Credit Limit Increases Work
When a lender reviews your account and decides you can responsibly handle more credit, they increase your limit.
Two Types of Credit Limit Increases
Automatic Credit Limit Increase
The bank increases your limit without you asking.
They usually look at:
- Payment history
- Credit utilization
- Income changes
- Account age
- Overall credit profile
Typical timeframe: 3-6 months of on-time payments (you can call customer service to find out exactly when you will qualify for your next Credit Limit Increase)
Requested Credit Limit Increase
You log into your account or call the bank and ask for a higher limit.
The lender may do:
Soft Pull (no score impact) - Common with many cards today
Hard Pull (temporary score drop) - Some lenders still do this, Navy Federal is one of them.
Factors Lenders Look At
When deciding whether to increase your limit, lenders review:
1. Payment History - Consistent on-time payments
2. Utilization - Ideally below 30%, best under 10%
3. Income - Higher income = higher limits
4. Account Age - Older accounts are more trusted
5. Spending Patterns - If you actually use the card
Example: If someone has a $500 limit but only spends $20 a month, the bank may not increase it because the limit isn't being utilized.
What To Do?
There are two ways you can trigger the bank for a credit limit increase. (there is not right or wrong answer)
Option A:
Make a large purchase, for example an expensive Louis Vuitton Bag - wait until the payment posts and then return the bag.
Option B:
Make large payments for the next 3-6 months & pay the balances back down before the statement date.
Remember not to spend What You Don't ALREADY HAVE. Take Christmas or Birthday shopping as an example. If you were already planning to spend a lot of money due to Christmas, this would be the perfect time to max out your credit cards and pay them back off. But don't just go spending unnecessary money just to get a credit limit increase - it's not that serious.
The Point Is To Get The HIGH CREDIT Section On Your Credit Report To Reflect As If You're Actually Spending Up Most Of Your Limit. As Long As This Is Paid Down 3 Days Before The Statement Date It Will Not Affect Your Credit Score.
High Credit vs Credit Limit - Visual Example
To Do List Step 9
Apply For New Credit
By this stage, most clients have reached what we call the Execution Phase of the program. This is the point where your credit profile should be in a much stronger position, and you may begin strategically applying for new credit.
Before applying for the specific credit product you ultimately want, there are a few steps that can help increase your chances of approval and potentially lead to higher approval amounts or lower interest rates.
You may consider adding one or two additional tradelines or credit cards to your profile — unless you already have 3–5 active credit cards, which is typically an ideal range for a strong revolving credit profile.
Another option is applying for a personal loan. This can serve two purposes:
- Paying down existing credit card balances, which can improve your credit utilization ratio
- Strengthening your relationship with the lender, which may increase your credibility when applying for larger financing (such as a business loan) in the coming months
As long as all negative items have been successfully removed from your credit report, it is generally safe to begin applying for new credit.
Optional — Need Help Applying?
If you would like assistance with the application process, you are welcome to book a consultation. I work directly with relationship managers at various financial institutions and understand how to structure applications in a way that can help maximize approval amounts.
Please note: if I assist you with securing approval for any credit cards or loans, my service fee is 10% of the approved amount.
However, this service is completely optional. You are more than welcome to apply on your own — and by this stage of the program, most clients are in a strong position to qualify independently.
Real Client Results:
- A client applied for a mortgage loan completely on her own and was approved for $434,000
- Another client was approved for $25,000 after being told exactly what to put on a credit card application
📸 Proof — $434,000 Mortgage Approval:
Credit Card Ladder 🪜
Side Note: YOU DO NOT NEED EVERY LAST CREDIT CARD LISTED…. These Are Just EXAMPLES ‼️
Starter Cards 💳
These are the cards we will use to get our credit going 🪜 — considered ENTRY LEVEL CREDIT CARDS. These are specifically for people with bad credit, decent credit OR NO CREDIT.
💳 Capital One Platinum
- No annual fee — designed for fair / rebuilding credit
- Automatic credit limit increase after on-time payments
- Pre-approval with no hard inquiry first
- Reports to all 3 bureaus (great for building profile)
🏦 Navy Federal Platinum Card
- VERY LOW APR (one of the lowest in the industry)
- No annual fee — great for balance transfers / debt payoff
- Strong limits $2,000–$10,000 with Navy Federal relationship
⚠️ Must be eligible for Navy Federal (military, family, etc.)
Apply Now →✨ Capital One Quicksilver
- Unlimited 1.5% cash back on EVERYTHING
- $200 welcome bonus | 0% intro APR ~15 months | No annual fee
- Good upgrade path from Platinum — daily spender card
🏃 Chase Freedom Rise
- Designed for new credit / low credit history
- Helps build relationship with Chase (VERY important bank)
- Cashback rewards | No annual fee | Higher approval odds if you bank with Chase
🔒 Discover it® Secured Card
- 💳 Builds credit from scratch | Still earns cash back
- 🔁 Can upgrade to unsecured + get deposit back | No annual fee
- Requires deposit ($200+) — Best for clients starting over or rebuilding
👎 Bad Starter Cards (crazy interest rates, low limits) — AVOID: Open Sky, Credit One, First Premier, Store Cards
Beginner Cards 💳 (700+ Credit Score, 2–5 Cards MAX)
🍽️ Capital One Savor
- High cash back on dining, entertainment, streaming, groceries
- 💰 Unlimited cash back (no caps) | Strong welcome bonus | No foreign transaction fees
🔵 Discover It
- 5% rotating categories | Cashback Match (DOUBLE all cash back first year)
- Known for credit limit increases over time | No annual fee
- 👉 One of the STRONGEST beginner cards for rewards + growth
💰 Navy Federal Cash Rewards (Up To $25,000)
- Up to 2% cash back | $250 bonus | HIGH LIMITS (10K–25K+)
- Rewards don't expire | No annual fee | Best for funding plays + BIG limits early
⚠️ Must qualify for Navy Federal (military / family)
Apply Now →✈️ Chase Sapphire (Min $5,000 Limit)
- Top-tier travel rewards | 3X dining, 2X travel | Huge welcome bonus (60K–75K+ points)
- Travel protections | $5,000 minimum limit (Visa Signature)
- 👉 Best for travel + building a premium credit profile
Amateur Credit Cards 💳 (Higher Limits $10,000+ | 3–6 Months)
💵 American Express Blue Cash Everyday®
- 💰 3% Cash Back on groceries, gas, online shopping | $0 Annual Fee
- 0% Intro APR (12–15 months) | Welcome bonus $150–$250+
- 👉 Good for: beginners, everyday spenders, clean profiles
🍎 Apple Card (Up To $30,000)
- 2% Cash Back on Apple Pay | 3% at Apple + select partners
- 📲 Instant approval (soft pull first) | Daily Cash paid out daily
- Can get limit increases fast | Great for Apple product financing (0% plans)
🔄 Chase Freedom Flex
- 💰 5% rotating categories | 3% dining + drugstores | 5% travel (Chase portal)
- 0% APR ~15 months | $0 Annual Fee | $200+ bonus
♾️ Chase Freedom Unlimited
- 💰 1.5% unlimited cash back on EVERYTHING | 3% dining + drugstores
- 0% APR ~15 months | $0 Annual Fee | $200–$250 bonus
- 👉 This is your "daily swipe" card — no thinking, just earn on everything
Free Travel Cards 💳 (Annual Fees, MAX REWARDS, Best Benefits)
The Goal Is To Travel FOR FREE. Only if you travel at least 1–3X per year.
🥇 American Express Gold Card ($325/yr)
- 🍽️ 4X Points on Dining Worldwide | 🛒 4X Points on Groceries
- 🎁 Monthly credits (Uber, dining, etc.) — total $500+ yearly value
- Can out-earn the annual fee with credits | Builds strong Amex relationship
- 👉 Perfect for stacking points FAST — daily spender card
👑 American Express Platinum Card ($895/yr)
- ✈️ 5X Points on Flights & Hotels | 🛫 1,400+ Airport Lounges Worldwide
- 💼 NO preset spending limit | Airline, Uber, Hotel, Streaming credits
- 👉 Best for business owners, travelers, and high spenders
⚓ Navy Federal Flagship Card (Up To $50,000)
- 💳 HIGH LIMIT approvals | ✈️ 3X Points on Travel | 💰 2X Points on Everything
- FREE Amazon Prime (~$139) | TSA PreCheck / Global Entry credit (up to $120)
- Low annual fee (~$49) | No rewards cap or expiration
- 👉 Hidden gem for funding + travel combo
Business Credit Cards 💳
Max Travel, Crazy Rewards, High Limits, And 0% Offers 8–18 Months
| Card | Best For | Key Perk |
|---|---|---|
| Capital One Venture X Business | Best overall travel | 2X–10X miles, $300 travel credit, lounge access |
| Amex Business Platinum | Status + big funding | 5X on flights/hotels, 1,500+ lounges, no preset limit |
| Chase Ink Business Preferred | Chase ecosystem | 3X travel/shipping/ads, $1K+ signup bonus |
| Chase Ink Business Cash | Easy approval + 0% | 0% APR 12 months, 5% cash back, $0 annual fee |
| Chase Ink Business Unlimited | Simple stacking | 0% APR 12 months, 1.5% unlimited, $750 bonus |
| Amex Blue Business Cash | Clean profiles + Amex | 0% APR 12 months, 2% cash back, no annual fee |
| Amex Blue Business Plus | Low-key travel points | 0% APR 12 months, 2X points everything, no annual fee |
| U.S. Bank Triple Cash Business | Longest 0% offer | 0% APR 12–18 months, 3% categories, $500 bonus |
| BofA Business Advantage Travel | Travel + 0% combo | 0% intro APR, travel rewards, no annual fee |
| Wells Fargo Signify Business | High spend + simple | 0% APR 12 months, 2% flat cash back, no annual fee |
To Do List Step 11
Setting Up Your LLC
This step is for those who already have a business & want business funding, or are looking to start a business.
ONCE YOU FINALLY HAVE A ⬇️
- Credit Score Of 680–720+
- Diverse Credit Mix (Revolving, Installments, Open Credit)
- 2–5 Credit Cards 💳 With 5K Limits
- Credit Card Utilization Is Under 10%
- 0 Negative Items On Credit Report
- 2 Or Less Inquiries
You Are Now Ready For The Next Step Which Is FUNDING.
SideNote ✍🏾
If You Have High Credit Card Utilization You May Want To Apply For A Personal Loan To Pay Down Your Credit Cards
Here Are Two Of The Most Popular Ways To Get Funding From Lenders:
- Major Lenders — Chase, Navy Federal, PNC Etc. (CREDIT IS IMPORTANT)
- Private Lenders — Income Based
For individuals who currently operate an active business and have an established LLC and are interested in obtaining business funding, it is important to understand the typical requirements lenders look for. Many people believe they can obtain a business loan without considering their personal credit, but in reality, that is rarely how lenders operate.
From a lender's perspective, a business is not guaranteed to generate revenue. If a bank approves a business for funding — such as a $50,000 loan — and the business experiences slow or inconsistent cash flow, the lender still expects the loan to be repaid.
In those situations, the responsibility ultimately falls on the business owner. This is why lenders often evaluate the owner's personal credit profile when making lending decisions.
For this reason, it is unrealistic to expect approval for large amounts of funding if there is little to no documented financial activity or revenue to support the request. Strong personal credit demonstrates financial responsibility and provides lenders with confidence that the borrower can manage and repay the debt if the business experiences challenges.
This is why personal credit remains an important factor, even when applying for business financing.
Unless you are approved for a grant, receive a government-backed loan (such as an SBA loan), or your business is already generating consistent monthly revenue of at least $10,000–$50,000 or more, most traditional lenders will not approve a business loan based solely on the business itself. In addition, this revenue must be verifiably flowing through a legitimate business bank account.
If your business does not yet meet these criteria, you will likely need to leverage your personal credit profile in order to obtain funding. As your business grows and begins producing consistent revenue, it will gradually become easier to qualify for funding based strictly on your business financials and performance.
Setting Up Your LLC PROPERLY
Do These In This EXACT ORDER. Because When You Do Step 6, You Will Need To Put Steps 1–5 On The Application.
| Step 1 | Business Name | Not In A Restricted Industry |
| Step 2 | Business Address | Brick & Motor |
| Step 3 | Business Phone | 800 Number |
| Step 4 | Business Email | Not A Gmail |
| Step 5 | Website | Nothing Related To Anything Restricted (Social Media Not Enough) |
| Step 6 | Apply For Business Entity | LLC |
| Step 7 | E.I.N | Your business social |
| Step 8 | Open Business Checking & Savings Bank Account | No Personal Bank Account. (MUST NOT BE IN CHEXSYSTEMS) Put $100 In Checking & Savings |
| Step 9 | Duns & Bradstreet Number | Making Sure Your Company Is Verified |
| Step 10 | Ask For Money | You have 30 days to Remove the inquiries before they hit your credit report |
Picture A $50,000 Line Of Credit Waiting On You. For Every Red Flag 🚩 You Lose $5,000
| Wrong Business Name? -$5,000 | $45,000 | Search For The Business Name Here — https://apps.ilsos.gov/businessentitysearch/businessentitysearch |
| Find Out If Your Business Is In A High Risk Industry | https://fairfigure.com/blog/low-risk-naics-codes | |
| No Business Email? -$5,000 | $40,000 | https://workspace.google.com/lp/business/ — Google Workspace $7–$14/Month |
| No Business Address? -$5,000 | $35,000 | Google Registered Agent For Your State |
| No Business Number -$5,000 | $30,000 | Google Voice, Grasshopper, RingCentral, SideLine, TextNow |
| No Business Bank Account -$5,000 | $25,000 | Any Bank That Offers Business Bank Accounts. |
| No Business Website -$5,000 | $20,000 |
Contact Harry — He's The One Who Created My Website. harry-castaner.vercel.app 📱 Scan to visit |
| No Duns & Bradstreet -$5,000 — Getting Your Company Verified | $15,000 | https://www.dnb.com/en-us/smb/duns/get-a-duns.html |
Business Loan Checklist 🔖 ☑️
- Step 1. Make Sure LLC SET UP PROPERLY
- Step 2. Open Up A Business Checking/Savings — Deposit $100 In Both
- Step 3. Set Direct Deposit Or Start Making Consistent Deposits (Preferably 90 Days)
- Step 4. Do A Secured Loan
- Step 5. Pay Secured Loan Off By 90%
- Step 6. Apply For A Credit Card
- Step 7. Apply For Credit Limit Increase
- Step 8. Start Applying (Personal Loans, Business Loans, Auto Loans, Mortgage Loans)
- (SideNote) You Can Do Step 8 By Yourself If You Want But I Have Relationship Managers Who Actually Pull The Applications And I Know Exactly What Goes On The Application To Help You Get Approved For Maximum Funding. So If You Want My Help I Charge 10–15% Of The Total Approval.
To Do List Step 12 — Congratulations 😎🥂
Congratulations On Completing Your Program!
By this time you should be somewhere between a 700–750+ Credit Score.
✅ Ready For Funding?
If you are a client who is ready to pursue personal or business funding, you should be able to apply independently. However, if you choose to have me assist directly with applications, I charge a 10% success fee based on the approved amount.
I also work with relationship managers at major institutions, including:
These relationship managers are the individuals who actually review and approve applications, and I refer my clients directly to them — which means larger approvals.
I also offer tradelines & shelf corporations, which function similarly to tradelines but for an LLC. If you are interested, feel free to book a consultation.
🙌 Not Interested In Funding? That's Totally Fine.
Please understand that you're pretty much done. At this point the only things that will help you strengthen your profile are:
- Adding a Mortgage — which is NOT mandatory. I personally don't have a mortgage and I have a 798 credit score.
- The only other thing that will help you is TIME.
✅ What To Keep Doing From Here:
- Continue to keep your utilization down
- Keep making on-time payments
- Let time do its thing — payment history builds over time
- Stay away from new late payments & collections
- Stay away from unnecessary inquiries
That's literally it. There's no extra special sauce. 🎯
Congratulations On Completing Your Program 😎🥂
You put in the work. Now enjoy the results and build on them.
TO DO LIST ZOOM RECORDINGS
Recorded Zoom walkthroughs to guide you step by step
Zoom Recordings
Go to your email and search for "Dear Credit Client" or [email protected] to access the recorded Zoom walkthroughs where I break down how to build up your credit scores, credit report, and credit profile step by step. If you do not see this email, please text (312) 584-9969 and we will make sure it gets resent out.
Resources
Helpful links, tools, and additional resources for your success
TO DO LIST
Credit Building Accounts To Help Increase Your Credit Score
The Following Accounts Below You Can Sign Up For While Undergoing Credit Repair. These Accounts WILL NOT ADD AN INQUIRY To Your Report And They Will Help Increase Your Score.
- Kikoff ( Revolving ) Sign Up Here
- Grow Credit ( Installment ) Sign Up Here
- Self ( Installment ) Sign Up Here
- Chime Credit Builder Card ( Revolving ) Sign Up Here
- Credit Strong $30 ( Installment ) Sign Up Here
IMPORTANT RULES:
• If you have a secured credit card or any active revolving account, your credit card bill should be paid the same day you make a purchase or your statement balance should NEVER exceed 10% of your limit.
• Example: If you have a $300 limit, never let your balance go above $30 (10%).
• ONLY use it for small purchases like gas ⛽, food 🍔, or subscriptions 💳
Prepaid Banks Sign Up Here 👉 Prepaid Banks Link
🚨 COMING SOON 🚨 NEW RESOURCES 🔎 & SERVICES 🏆
🚨 COMING SOON 🚨
New Resources & Services — Stay Tuned!
⚖️ Financial & Legal Solutions
📈 Credit & Wealth Building
🏢 Business & Brand Development
🚗 Automotive & Income Opportunities
🏠 Real Estate & Lifestyle
🚀 Opportunities
Important Links & Resources
View My Reports & Scores — Sign Up Here:
Major Banks Sign up here 👉 Major Banks Link
Prepaid Banks Sign Up Here 👉 Prepaid Banks Link
Credit Building Services:
Customer Support:
📞 Phone: (312) 584-9969
📧 Email: [email protected]
🕒 Hours: Monday-Thursday, 12:00 PM - 5:00 PM
How To Contact Me
Booking, customer service, and social media
- Please Do Not Message Me On Facebook Messenger Or Instagram. Most Of The Time Your Name On Social Media Isn't Your Real Name & I Have No Idea Who I'm Speaking To.
- I Do Not Answer Random Phone Calls. The Best way to get my attention is to book a consultation.
- Due to the volume of clients I serve, it is not feasible to answer or return hundreds of unscheduled calls and text messages each day.
- Just because it's a quick question doesn't mean it's a quick answer.
- For this reason, all questions and concerns must be addressed through a booked consultation to ensure no one goes unanswered.
- As an active client, you may schedule a consultation at no additional cost.
- Please note that I may not have my business phone on hand outside of my business hours so it is Important to book me so that your questions or concerns don't go unanswered.
- The More Convenient It Is For Me The More Effective I Can Be To Make Sure Everyone Gets The Best Results.
Booking Link:
Contact Information
📧 Email: [email protected]
📞 Phone/Text: (312) 584-9969
Please allow 24-48 hours for a response. Text or email is preferred. Do not call multiple times - your message will be seen and addressed.
Yours Truly, TheCreditDaddy