Active Client Portal - Wealthy Intention

Active Client Portal

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Active Client Expectations

Important guidelines and expectations for all Wealthy Intention clients to ensure the best possible results.

Business Hours & Consultation Availability

Calendar Availability

The screenshot above reflects my current calendar availability. As shown, my schedule is typically fully booked.

My Official Business Hours:

Monday through Thursday, 12:00 PM to 5:00 PM (not available during holidays). These are the designated times during which I make myself available to clients who schedule a consultation.

  • Due to the volume of clients I serve, it is not feasible to answer or return hundreds of unscheduled calls and text messages each day. For this reason, all questions and concerns must be addressed through a booked consultation.
  • As an active client, you may schedule a consultation at no additional cost.
  • Please note that I may not have my business phone on hand outside of my business hours so it is important to book me so that your questions or concerns don't go unanswered.

Important Communication Reminder

Please ensure you are regularly checking both your email inbox and spam/junk folder for messages from the following addresses:

To remain on track, it is essential to review your email (including spam) at least once per week to confirm your account status and any required actions.

If you have not received an email, this typically indicates that everything is in good standing.

If you have any questions or concerns, you may contact our support team at [email protected].

Book Your Consultation:

Schedule Consultation

Please understand if I'm not answering or texting you back I'm not ignoring you.

Best way to get my attention is to book a consultation. As I stated before I make myself available for everyone Every Monday-Thursday from 12pm-5pm. Just because it's a quick question doesn't mean it's a quick answer. Just because I see your message doesn't mean I'm not busy which is why I will keep iterating that the best way to get in contact with me is to book an appointment. THE CONSULTATION IS FREE.

The More Convenient It Is For Me The More Effective I Can Be To Make Sure Everyone Gets The Best Results.

Payment Agreement & Continuation of Services

When a payment agreement is established with a defined timeline, it is essential that the terms of that agreement are honored.

The fee charged covers the entire credit improvement process, not an individual dispute round. While payment plans are not required, one was extended as a courtesy.

Payment Policy:

• If a scheduled payment is missed, all work on your account will be paused immediately, and no updates will be provided until the outstanding payment has been received.

• If our team attempts to contact you regarding a missed payment and does not receive a response within 24 hours, the process will be fully suspended.

• In order to resume services, the remaining balance must be paid in full.

These policies are not personal. They are necessary to protect the integrity of our business operations and ensure fairness across all client accounts.

Login Credentials

MAKE SURE YOUR PASSWORD IS:

Credit@2025

If ever requested to change your password please reach out to me first before you just make one of your own.

Be sure to text 312-584-9969 or email [email protected] with your first and last name after you change it.

Login Credentials

Password Change Required:

This happens every so often for security purposes.

Password Change Required

What To Do:

Step 1: Log into your account and see if the same issue pops up for you. If not send a screenshot of you being inside the credit report to 312-584-9969.

Step 2: If so just enter your email to receive the reset password link. Once received Enter the same exact password Credit@2025 with a Capital "C". If you can't use the same password add a period at the end so Credit@2025.

Step 3: After Updating The Password Be sure to log into your account to make sure the password works.

Step 4: Once completed Please text (312) 584-9969 or email [email protected] to notify us that your account is back active with the new password as we will no longer check on this for you until notified.

Login Here:

https://member.myfreescorenow.com/login/

If you have any trouble changing your password please call MyFreeScoreNow (888) 548-2008

Setting Up Your Online Portal

Within 4 Business Days After Getting Started my backend team should have sent you an email for you to create an online portal to track your progress and to upload any additional documents.

How to Find Your Portal Email:

If you go to your email and search for "Client Portal Login" or you should see it. If you don't see it here check spam.

If you do not see the email to create your online portal text my team to make sure it gets resent out: (312) 584-9969

Portal Setup

As your credit journey continues you can expect phone calls, emails or mail from:

  • The original creditors of whoever you have done business with
  • Various Debt collectors
  • Credit reporting agencies such as Transunion, Equifax, And Experian

YOU DO NOT have to answer any calls or respond to any emails or mail. We will notify you via email if there is anything you need to do on your end. Any mail you receive you can upload them inside of your portal.

Also if you feel like you may have something that may help us with the process. Things like proof you paid certain bills that are late, proof that you were a victim of identity theft like a police report, or screenshots of letters & emails or pictures of letters that you may have gotten in the mail that is important to your situation; FEEL FREE TO UPLOAD THEM INTO YOUR PORTAL.

Important: Anytime you upload any documents inside your portal you must notify us to check it.

Tracking Your Own Progress

Your Online Portal is also where you will come to track your own progress. Each round of results takes 45 days for a new update. By law we have to give the credit bureaus that time frame to view clients file and validate the debt/inaccuracies! Please be patient with our team while we get each client's results.

You DO NOT Have To Check Your Portal Every 2 Weeks. It Will Only Update After Each Round.

Once updated Any remaining negative items automatically goes into your next round of disputes. Please allow up to 4 business days in between rounds.

Once Your Dispute letters are sent out for the next round You Can Actually Log into your portal And You'll Be Able To See The Difference In The Amount Of Deletions & Score Changes Etc.

You Can Also Log Into Your Credit Monitoring & view your credit report As Well To Confirm.

You also DO NOT Have To Check Your Credit Report Every 2 Weeks. It Will Only Update Monthly.

Progress Tracking Progress Example

Important to Understand: Please Understand That An Update Is Strictly Just An Update. It Doesn't Mean You Will Have A Score Increase Every Round Or Something Will Be Deleted Every Round. You Can Expect Certain Rounds With No Change. That's Completely Normal It's Apart Of The Process. Believe It Or Not It Actually Helps With You Getting Deletions Because It Helps Us Catch The Credit Reporting Agencies Up In Violation Even More Than They Already Were.

What Could Delay The Process or Prevent You From Receiving An Update?

Primary Issues That Delay Results:

• Outdated credit monitoring reports

• Inaccessible or incorrect credit monitoring login credentials

• Missing or invalid Proof of Address (POA) documentation

• Full or inaccessible email inbox (clean up space or buy more storage if needed)

• Phone settings that block or silence unknown numbers

Please save 312-584-9969 in your contacts to ensure uninterrupted communication.

These are the primary issues that delay results for most clients. By proactively managing the items listed above, you set yourself up for a smooth and successful experience.

If you receive an email or text message regarding any of the items above, it is not sent without cause and is not a system error.

In most cases, either:

• Our team was not updated that the issue has been handled, or

• The issue has resurfaced and requires immediate attention.

These notifications should never be ignored.

Before responding with "I've already completed this," please take a moment to verify first:

  • Log directly into your credit monitoring account to confirm the report is current
  • Confirm all dates on submitted documents are accurate and up to date

Verification ensures accuracy, prevents delays, and keeps your account active and progressing as intended.

EMAILS:

It is impossible to call/text 400+ people everyday so most of our communication will be through via email.

Be Sure To Check Your Emails Weekly If Not Daily. Also Make Sure You Are Checking Your SPAM. Sometimes emails go there and I don't know why.

Make sure that your email storage isn't full. This will prevent us from being able to email you and it will also prevent you from being able to email us.

I don't want a situation where both parties are doing their part but the emails aren't going through.

If you ever get a new email or prefer us to send messages to a different email please notify [email protected] with your First and Last Name and new email. This also applies for new phone numbers.

Phone Settings - DND:

It is common for mobile devices to have settings enabled that silence or block unknown numbers. Please note that 312-584-9969 is the official number used by our customer service team. We kindly ask that you save this number to ensure you receive all necessary communications.

Please do not reply with "STOP." Doing so will automatically block all future text messages and emails from our system, which may prevent you from receiving important updates. This could delay your progress and result in your account becoming inactive.

If you have already replied "STOP" to this number, please text "UNSTOP" back to 312-584-9969, to start back receiving updates & notifications via email & text.

If you ever get a new number or prefer us to send messages to a different number please notify [email protected] with your First and Last Name and new number. So we can update your contact information in our system to avoid any interruptions in service. This also applies for new email.

POA (PROOF OF ADDRESS)

Proof of Address Requirements:

There Are only 3 acceptable documentations for this: Utility Bill, Bank Statement, Or Lease Agreement. NOTHING ELSE. & We Only Need 1 Out Of The 3.

If You have a lease agreement you can send it over and it last for the entire year & you won't have to worry about this anymore.

If you don't have a lease agreement that's fine you can send the utility bill or bank statements and just remember every month when your institution sends you your new PDF to make sure to send it over to [email protected]

Important: Please note that the address on your utility bill or bank statement DOES NOT NEED TO MATCH the address listed on your State ID Or Driver's License — that is not what we're verifying.

What matters is that the address on your Utility Bill Or Bank Statement accurately matches your current place of residence, as this serves as your OFFICIAL PROOF OF ADDRESS (THIS IS WHAT WE'RE VERIFYING EVERY MONTH).

If the address on your utility bill or bank statement DOES NOT MATCH the CURRENT address you previously provided, you have two options:

Suggestion #1: Update the address directly within your online account before downloading the new PDF document, & resend it to [email protected]

All Bank Statements Are Accepted (Chime, Cashapp, Varo, Bank Of America, Or Whatever Institution You Bank With. Credit Card Bank Statements Are Also Acceptable)

Suggestion #2: If you cannot edit your Utility Bill or Bank Statement yourself you can Submit a $20 editing fee, which covers the cost for my partner to update the document on your behalf. (THIS IS OPTIONAL)

POA Document Example

PLEASE MAKE SURE ALL DOCUMENTS ARE CLEAR:

• Not Too Light Or Too Dark

• No shadows blocking words in the documents

• Pictures MUST BE FULL PAGE (Take it out of the mail and unfold it)

• MAKE SURE ALL 4 CORNERS ARE IN THE PIC

• If you are paperless, share the link instead of sending a screenshot

CREDIT MONITORING

It Is Extremely Important That You Understand The Difference Between UPDATED & ACTIVE

ACTIVE means you have successfully paid the $30 fee for your credit monitoring

UPDATED means you actually ordered a new report. Every month you get a new one

BOTH OF THESE MUST BE DONE IN ORDER FOR US TO GIVE YOU AN UPDATE

Your Credit Report Should NEVER Be More Than 40 Days Old Or I WILL NOT Be Able To Provide You With An Update.

Understand if you fall behind I won't be able to send you your round results but that DOES NOT MEAN That you don't have any results. I just can't access your report so there is nothing for me to update you about.

I Will Only Remind You 3 Times About This… So I Am Telling You Now To Set A Reminder In Your Calendar.

Inactivity Policy:

After The 3rd & Final Reminder I Will Attempt To Login In One More Time.

If Your Dispute Process Is Paused For Inactivity After 60 Days Then I Will Stop Working On Your Report Completely And YOU WILL HAVE TO PAY A $300 Re-Activation Fee TO GET BACK STARTED.

Credit Monitoring Example

Every 40 Days I want you to go to the website NOT THE APP:

Member Login | MyFreeScoreNow

Physically Login & Click The 3 Lines At The Top Left, Then Click On 3B Reports & Scores, If it says your report is more than 40 days old You must click on ORDER A NEW UPDATE

If you have already paid the $30 that means your account is ACTIVE but not UPDATED and IT WILL NOT CHARGE YOU $30 again. If your account is INACTIVE then of course you will be charged $30.

I cannot update it for anyone because I am not responsible for any unauthorized charges.

If you don't update it that's how it'll end up eventually being 60 days old etc holding you back with the process.

If You Receive A Notice about this After you handle it be sure to notify my team. We will login to your report the day it is scheduled for a pdf update and if we can't access the account or see the most recent report we will email you reminders but we will not check on this every month for 400 people.

YOU MUST Notify my team at 312-584-9969 or [email protected] with your first and last name and That Your Account Is Active & You Would Like An Update & you shall receive one Within 4 Business Days.

Understanding How Updates Work

I would like to take a moment to clarify how updates are provided throughout the credit improvement process.

First, it is important to understand that not receiving a formal update from us does not necessarily mean there has been no progress. Many clients receive updates directly through creditor notifications, emails, mailed correspondence, or alerts from their credit monitoring service indicating deletions or changes. On top of that you also have your client Portal. These notifications are all considered valid updates.

That said, we intentionally provide formal PDF updates because they are more professional, easier to review, and help clients feel confident and informed about their progress.

Misconceptions

Please Understand That A Update Is Strictly Just A Update. It Doesn't Mean You Will Have A Score Increase Every Round Or Something Will Be Deleted Every Round. You Can Expect Certain Rounds & sometimes back to back rounds With No Change. That's Completely Normal It's Apart Of The Process. Believe It Or Not It Actually Helps With You Getting Deletions Because It Helps Us Catch The Credit Reporting Agencies & Debt Collectors Up In Violation Even More Than They Already Were.

Update Timeline

Each dispute round operates on a 45-day cycle (approximately one and a half months). Updates are scheduled according to this timeline and are dependent on all required documentation and access being current and accurate.

Phase One: Proof of Address (POA)

The first step before any update can be issued is confirming that we have a current Proof of Address (POA) on file. Acceptable documents include:

  • A utility bill
  • A bank statement
  • A rental or lease agreement

To be valid, the document must:

  • Display your full first and last name (not a business name or nickname)
  • Show your complete residential address
  • Be dated within the last 60 days

If the document is older than 60 days, it is considered outdated and cannot be used. For example, if it is currently December and the document on file is from September or October, it is no longer valid. For this reason, we strongly recommend submitting a new POA every month as soon as it becomes available. Utility bills and bank statements are often delayed, and by the time the next update cycle arrives, a previously submitted document may already be expired. This can cause unnecessary delays for both you and our team.

If you have a rental or lease agreement, that is ideal, as it typically remains valid for an extended period and eliminates the need for monthly submissions.

If your POA is missing or outdated at the time an update is scheduled, we will contact you via email and text message and send up to three reminders. If the issue is not resolved, the process CANNOT move forward.

Phase Two: Credit Monitoring Access

Once the POA is confirmed, the next requirement is accurate and up-to-date credit monitoring access.

Common issues at this stage include:

  • Incorrect login credentials
  • An outdated credit report
  • Required password changes initiated by the monitoring service for security reasons

If we are unable to access your credit report, we cannot provide an update.

Important Distinction

It is important to understand the difference between active and updated credit monitoring:

Paying the monthly fee keeps the account active

Logging in and refreshing the report ensures it is updated

When you log into your credit monitoring account, the report will display a "last updated" date. That date must reflect the current month. For Example; Let's say the current month is December. If the report is showing a prior month (for example, September, October, Or November), it will be considered outdated & cannot be used to provide a current update.

While we can request an update on your behalf if your monitoring is active, we cannot initiate updates that would result in unauthorized charges. If your monitoring payment has lapsed, updating the report would trigger a charge, and we will not proceed without your authorization.

Once a client is scheduled to receive a pdf update my team will then begin phases 1 & 2. If my team has any issues such as mentioned before step 1 would be to contact you via email or text. From there we will wait for your confirmation and we will no longer check on that issue for you it will be 100% YOUR DUTY to notify us once the issue has been handled so that we can resume the process.

Best Practices to Avoid Delays

To ensure consistent progress, we recommend the following:

• Submit your most recent Proof of Address every month

• Log into your credit monitoring account monthly to confirm:

  - The report is updated

  - Your login credentials work

  - No password reset is required

If these 2 are consistently maintained, everything else falls on us. Don't let it be your fault we couldn't successfully do our job.

Hard Truth:

You can't pay for credit repair then:

• Ignore or skim through instructions

• Stop responding

• Ignore emails and text messages

• Keep adding new inquiries, or late payments

• Skip credit building

Then come back 3 months later saying you haven't heard anything, seen any changes, & proceed to blame my company or the process.

Credit repair works only when WE work.

I'm not a miracle worker, I'm a strategist. You have to do your part as well. Please take your credit seriously—it represents your financial credibility.

How Long Does Credit Repair Take?

I can't give a specific timeframe for a few reasons:

  • 1) Often times clients hold themselves back with the process by not keeping their credit monitoring up to date.
  • 2) They don't check their emails for instructions and they don't send in their most recent proof of address every month — and we need that in order to dispute on your behalf.

These two things alone can prolong a client's results for months or even a whole year — which would not be my fault as long as I send out emails and texts notifying them.

On top of that, the timeframe for credit repair varies from person to person, depending on the number and the type of negative items on your report.

Success Stories:

• Fastest deletion: Eviction removed in just 14 days

• Quickest full clean-up: 88 total negative items cleared within 45 days

That said, results like these are possible but not typical and cannot be guaranteed for every client — no one in this industry can honestly make such a promise. If they do, they're telling you what you want to hear so you feel comfortable enough to give them your money because they know you're in a rush & most likely desperate.

Realistic Expectations:

On average, credit repair takes 6 to 9 months, and in more severe cases, it can take up to a year.

I believe in full transparency: credit repair takes as long as it needs to take. Anyone guaranteeing complete results in 30–60 days is not being realistic. The average client goes through 4-7 rounds of disputes. If it were that simple, multiple rounds of disputes wouldn't even exist.

Unfortunately, many companies lie for sales, which gives credit specialists a bad reputation. My approach is different — I prefer honesty over hype. MY NAME IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN YOUR MONEY! I will let anyone walk before I tell them what they want to hear. Unfortunately it's not about WHAT YOU WANT, it's about HOW IT WORKS. Results take time, but they do come. Will it take the full 6-9 months? Not necessarily, but you can expect that.

Each dispute round lasts about 45 days, and after every round, you'll receive a PDF update showing whether any deletions or changes occurred.

See Real Results:

If you click this link you can look at the credit scores and deletions for some of my clients and kind of do the math on how long it took — do with that what you will. Also, a lot of the shares are from some of my real clients.

Click here to view credit scores and deletions from real clients

When Can I Start Applying For Things?

I understand a lot of you may have goals & trust me, it's in my best interest that you hit those goals. But if I have to be honest, most of your goals are unrealistic to begin with.

Let's Be Real:

• Your credit score is SHOT

• You don't have good payment history

• You're in crazy debt

• You have multiple negative items on your credit report

• You have no positive accounts showing proof that you can afford anything

• But yet you want years worth of damage cleaned up in a short period of time

Now does this mean I won't try to help you hit the goal? Absolutely not. But if you're not able to get approved for something in a short timeframe, I don't need you being mad or discouraged because you didn't give yourself the proper time to begin with.

For Start I Just Want To Say:

If You Have Negative Items Still On Your Report YOU SHOULD NOT BE APPLYING FOR ANYTHING. Not Until The Highlighted Subjects Reach The Number 0. Your Summary On Your Credit Report Should Look Like This!!!!

Credit Summary Example

Does This Mean I Won't Try To Help You Hit The Goal? Absolutely Not But If You're Not Able To Get Approved For Something In A Short Timeframe I Don't Need You Being Mad Or Discouraged Because You Didn't Give Yourself The Proper Time To Begin With. Please understand it's not about WHAT YOU WANT, it's About HOW IT WORKS.

2 Or Less Inquiries

Inquiries Example

Quick Tip: You Want To Avoid Unnecessary Inquiries

At the end of the day, 10%, 30%, 50% is better than 0%

WE'LL GET THERE IN DUE TIME

EXPECT TO WAIT A MINIMUM 6-9 MONTHS

Could take longer depending on your situation, so NEVER compare yourself to someone else.

That person may have:

• Better payment history

• A stronger profile

• Older debt

• Less severe debt

• More money to invest

• Acted sooner than you

• Been in a better situation and had more time to wait

New Negative Items Policy 🚨

When you begin the credit repair process, my goal is to dispute and address all negative items currently listed on your credit report.

Important Notice

If new negative items appear during the process — such as new collections, inquiries, or late payments — please understand that I am not required to work on those new items.

I do understand that situations happen or sometimes accounts report later than expected, and I'm always willing to work with clients in good faith to keep them on track. That said, this is a professional courtesy, not an obligation.

Please note:

• Continuously applying for new credit or creating new inquiries during the repair process works against your progress and creates additional work that makes my job significantly harder.

• If we've already discussed the importance of keeping your accounts positive and you still receive new negative items, an additional charge may apply for continued credit repair services.

• If I decide to charge for additional work, I will inform you first and ask whether you wish to move forward.

• If you choose not to, all work on your file will be paused or stopped entirely.

Credit Score Vs Credit Report Vs Credit Profile

Understand The Difference Between Your Credit SCORE & Credit REPORT & Credit PROFILE

Fun Facts:

  • Your Credit Score DOES NOT Get You Approved For Anything
  • You Can Have A 750 Credit Score And STILL NEED A CO-SIGNER
  • Just Because You Have A Good Credit Score DOES NOT MEAN You Have GOOD CREDIT
  • Your #CREDIT Is NOT Your Credit SCORE. Your Credit Is Your Credibility/Reputation With The Banks
  • When You Have Negative Items & Late Payments On Your Report YOU HAVE NO CREDIBILITY
  • Credit Is Just Like A Job… You Need The Experience To Get The Job But You Need The Job To Get The Experience. In This Case You Need The History To Get The Credit & You Need The Credit To Get The History.
  • Having No Credit History Is Almost The Same As Having Bad Credit. Either Way You Have NO CREDIBILITY
  • Your Credit Report & Credit Profile Is Far More Important Than Your Credit Score.
  • Someone With A 650 Credit Score Can Get Approved Over Someone With A 750 Credit Score

Your Credit Score = Your RESUME

A Good Resume Does Not Mean You Automatically Got The Job. The Resume Is Only Enough For The Employer To CONSIDER YOU. For Example: A Trucking Company Is Hiring On The Flyer It Says "MUST HAVE VALID CDL" I Can't Even APPLY Without Having A CDL. But Just Because I Have A CDL That Doesn't Mean I Will Get The Job. I'll Still Have To Complete A Interview & Background Check. Just Like A Resume Your Credit Score Makes You QUALIFIED TO APPLY. (Example: You Must Have A 650 Credit Score To Apply For This Apartment) Just Because You Might Have A 650 Credit Score Doesn't Mean You Will Be Approved. You Just QUALIFY TO APPLY.

The Application = The INTERVIEW

Obviously When Applying For Things The Amount Of Money You Make, The Amount Of Debt You Have, The Job You Have, And More Factors All Plays A Role In Your Approval. But What Many Don't Know Is You Can Have 700+ Credit Score And Not A Collection In Sight. Your Personal Information Can Be All Messed Up. I'm Not The Only Cordell Collins On Earth & I'm Sure You're Not The Only One With Your Name. The Last Thing You Want Is Someone's Else Mistakes Stuck On Your Credit Report. If I'm Cordell D Collins On Transunion, Cordell Collins On Experian & Cordell Collins Jr On Equifax Technically Those Are 3 Different People On Paper. Most People Have Too Many Names & Old Addresses On Their Credit Reports & Are Getting Denied Because They Are Red Flagging Your Application Because They Can't Fully Verify You, They May Think Someone Is Trying To Steal Your Identity, Or Might Think You're Another Person With The Same Exact Name. Now It's Not Common That Someone Gets Denied Due To This But I Have Seen It Happen On A Few Occasions. Best Way To Help Get This Fixed While Receiving Credit Repair Is To Make Sure The Address On Your ID Matches Your Current Address. Also When Applying For Credit It's Best To Put The Same Answers For Every Application.

Credit Report = The BACKGROUND CHECK

Your CREDIT REPORT Is What Gets You APPROVED Derogatory Marks Are Like Felonies.

You Can Have The Best Resume In The World Along With All The Work Experience. The Chances Of You Becoming Manager At Any Establishment With Armed Robbery On Your Record Is Slim. A lot of times people often downplay their credit reports. Don't ever think just because you only have a few negative items or only owe small debts that your credit report is "NOT THAT BAD" In Most Cases 1 Collection can and will get you denied regardless of the amount owed. Smaller collections are actually worse. A $10,000 collection makes sense but when you have small collections you just make yourself look very irresponsible. If You couldn't handle a $300 credit card, Why should anyone trust you with a $30,000 auto loan? You Can Have A 750 Credit Score 1 Collection Can Get You Denied. Having A Bankruptcy On Your Report Is Like Committing Murder It's The Absolute Worst Thing You Can Have On Your Credit Report.

Good Credit Report Vs Bad Credit Report

Good Credit Report - This Is What You Want To See

This Person Has 0 Late Payments, 0 Collections And Only 2 Inquiries. If Your Report Doesn't Look Like This, YOU NEED CREDIT REPAIR.

Bad Credit Report - This Is What You Don't Want To See

This Person Has 2 Delinquent Accounts (meaning accounts with late payments) They Also Have A Total Of 12 Derogatory Accounts (Meaning Accounts In Negative Standing Such As Repos, Charge-offs, Evictions Etc) 2 Collections, & 3 Public Records. That's A Total Of 19 Negative Accounts. That's Not Including The 22 Inquiries.

SideNote: Your Report Is Always Worse On Paper Than Real Life. You Might Have 1 Collection With T-Mobile But If That Collection Is Reporting On Transunion, Experian, & Equifax, On Paper That's 3 Collections. In Conclusion This Report Is HORRIBLE. Would You Loan Someone Money If You Knew For A Fact They Owed 19 People?

Your Credit Profile = This Is What Separates You From Everyone Else.

Example: You & I Just Applied For The Same Exact House. The Minimum Credit Score Required Is A 650.

  • We Both Have A 750 Credit Score
  • We Both Have 5 Credit Cards
  • We Both Have 100% Payment History
  • We Both Have 0 Collections
  • We Both Have Only 2 Inquiries

Now Ask Yourself If There's 20 Other People Who Meets This Same Criteria, Why Should They Choose You?

  • If We Both Have A 750 Credit Score We Both QUALIFY TO APPLY.
  • If We Both Have A Clean Credit Report 9/10 We Both Will Be Approved

So How Does The Loan Officer Decide Who's The Better Candidate? THE PROFILE.

FREE GAME

• Your Credit History Is 15% Of Your Credit Score

• Your Credit Mix Is 10% Of Your Credit Score.

• The LONGER The Credit HISTORY & The More DIVERSE The Credit MIX. THE STRONGER THE PROFILE

Your Profile Is Where They Pay Attention To More Details Such As…

  • What Kind Of Credit Cards You Have? High Tier Vs Low Tier. Do You Have A Chase Credit Card Or Do You Just Have A Macy's Credit Card, Along With Chime
  • Are You The Primary Owner Of The Credit Card Meaning This Is YOUR CARD UNDER YOUR ACCOUNT. Or Are You Just A Authorized User? Meaning You Have Access To Someone's Else Card Because They Added You Or You Purchased Some Tradelines.
  • What Are Your Credit Limits? Do You Have A $300 Credit Limit Or A $10,000 Credit Limit? Who's Managing The Most Money?
  • How Much Is Your Credit Card Utilization Are You Spending Too Much Money Every Month? Do You Need The Credit Card To Get By? Who's Looks More Responsible
  • How Long Have You Been Establishing Credit? 6 Months, 3 Years, 5 Years… Who's Been More Consistent

As Long As Someone Has The Minimum Credit Score Required They Will Qualify To Apply But This Is Why Someone With A 650 Credit Score Can Get Approved Over Someone With A 750. It's Because You Can Have A Weak Profile Or A Strong Profile. Obviously You Want A Strong Profile.

When Applying For Things Like Auto Loans, Personal Loans, Business Loans, & Mortgage Loans. Without A Strong Profile You May Be Asked To…

• Provide a co-signer

• Show proof of income (pay stubs, tax returns, bank statements)

• Put up collateral (vehicle, cash, assets, or liens)

• Accept a higher interest rate or unfavorable terms

• Make a larger down payment

• Accept a lower approval amount than requested

• Pay origination, funding, or risk-based fees

• Open additional accounts with the lender (checking/savings)

• Agree to shorter loan terms (higher monthly payments)

• Provide business financials (P&L, balance sheet, EIN history)

• Face manual underwriting instead of instant approval

• Receive a conditional approval that can be revoked

Take This Story As A Great Example. She Thought Her Credit Score Was Her Credit. 10/10 She Had A Weak Profile & That's Why She Still Needed A Co-signer.

In Conclusion: If You Can't Walk Into The Bank And Ask Them $100,000 YOU DO NOT HAVE GOOD CREDIT. For The Statement "I Have GOOD CREDIT" to be true you need 4 things:

• Good Credit Score

• Clean & Accurate Credit Report

• Strong Credit Profile

• LLC SET UP PROPERLY

Why Do You Need All Four? Because All 4 Combined Is WHAT MAKES YOU CREDIBLE. And Remember YOUR CREDIT IS YOUR CREDIBILITY

  • Without A Good Credit Score You Most Likely Won't Qualify To Apply For Most Things. But A Good Credit Score Doesn't Mean You're Approved
  • You Can Have A Good Credit Score & Still Fail The Application For Putting Wrong Information On A Application Or Not Having A Accurate Credit Report
  • You Can Have A Clean Credit Report But A WEAK PROFILE.
  • The LLC is What Gives You Access To 150K+ Not To Mention All Of The Tax Benefits As A Business Owner.

Even If You Pass All Of Those Phases You Want To Make Sure Your LLC Is Set Up Properly Because If Not You'll Still Be Denied Business Funding Although You Checked Off Everything Else On The List…. That's A Whole Other Conversation, Feel Free To Book A Consultation If You Want To Know If Your LLC Is Set Up Properly Or Not Or Need Assistance Getting One.

What Makes Up Your Credit Score?

Important Understanding

Please Understand That Credit Repair DOES NOT Boost Your Score. The Only Person That Can Increase Your Credit Score Is YOU.

I Cannot Make Your Scores Go Up Or Down. So If You Want A Higher Credit Score You First Need To Know What Makes Up Your Credit Score?

The 5 Factors That Make Up Your Credit Score:

Payment History - 35%

Nobody pays your bills BUT YOU so if you get a late payment the only person should be to blame IS YOU. I Do Not Pay Any Of My Clients Bills

Credit Card Utilization - 30%

Nobody should be using any of your credit cards BUT YOU so if your credit card balances are over 30% or maxed out and your score drops. Once again that is not my fault. I have 0 access to any of my clients credit cards

Credit History - 15%

This is the one that gets everyone including myself. The banks like to see at least 5 years worth of good credit history. But unfortunately people don't care about their credit until it stops them from getting approved for thing. So if you waited last minute to prioritize your credit and you have no credit history or short history…. THAT IS NOT MY FAULT.

Inquiries - 10%

Every time you apply for something that is a HARD PULL. You WILL RECEIVE A INQUIRY. And every time you receive an inquiry whether you are Approved Or Denied YOUR SCORE WILL DROP. I don't apply for anything in anyone's name So if you have too many inquiries or receive new inquiries once again… NOT MY FAULT

Credit Mix - 10%

So incase you didn't know there are different types of credit. I break down these different types of credit in my zoom recordings that should be in your email. But long story short. If you have no positive accounts on your profile then you have no credit mix. And since I have not and will not apply for anything in anyone's name if my client's names. Once again… NOT MY FAULT.

Hard Truth:

You can't pay for credit repair then:

• Ignore or skim through instructions

• Stop responding

• Ignore emails and text messages

• Keep adding new inquiries, or late payments

• Skip credit building

Then come back 3 months later saying you haven't heard anything, seen any changes, & proceed to blame my company or the process.

Credit repair works only when WE work.

I'm not a miracle worker, I'm a strategist. You have to do your part as well. Please take your credit seriously—it represents your financial credibility.

TO DO LIST

REMINDER

CREDIT REPAIR focuses strictly on your CREDIT REPORT. This Means I Can NEVER Be The Reason Your Credit Score Has Dropped Or Just Hasn't Gone Up.

Although I can't make your Scores go up I can give you a 10 Step Action Plan to increase your scores and build a strong profile.

So now that we understand the difference between your credit score, credit report, credit profile, what makes up your credit score, and how it affects you. How do we go from the 400s to the 700s? I designed this for all of my clients who may need some credit coaching on:

  • How to build up your credit scores
  • How to maintain your credit score once back good
  • How to avoid credit card debt
  • How to get out of credit card debt if you're already in it
  • How to manage your credit cards and use them correctly
  • And also how to create a nice strong credit profile
  • How to get the check from the bank so the dealership won't have to run your credit 50 times

THE TO DO LIST:

If you go to your email and (Search for Dear Credit Client Or ) To Get A Better Understanding Of This; You Should See multiple Recordings where I break down how to build up your credit scores and your credit report and profile.

If you do not see this email please text me and I will make sure that it gets resent out. But understand You can get all the credit repair in the world if you don't do this part don't expect your score to go up and also understand that that is NOT MY FAULT

I will drop two screenshots below. One will display someone who watched the recordings and actually did the TO DO LIST. The other will show someone who just received credit repair but didn't do the TO DO LIST.

If we take a close look we can see this particular client has completed four rounds with us and are currently awaiting for their Round 5 to end. This client Has gotten over 66 DELETIONS WHICH IS PHENOMENAL

This same type of client will see me post someone going from the 400s to the 700s and instantly start feeling left out wondering "why didn't my scores go up" as if the 66 deletions means nothing. Some will even get mad as if I didn't do my job. But you paid me for CREDIT REPAIR. So I have been doing my job.

If you didn't take the initiative to do your TO DO LIST. That is not my fault. And once again just to be clear… I CANNOT MAKE SOMEONE's SCORE DROP.

If you're late on your bills every month or your credit cards are maxed out before you blame me ask yourself. Did Cordell pay any of my bills and use my credit cards or apply for anything in my name? If the answer is NO (which it will be) understand I did not make your score drop which is why I broke down what makes up your credit score.

Now let's look at this client. They are 6 rounds in and are currently awaiting for their round 7 to end. Has Gotten 41 Deletions Which is 25 Less than 66 but yet they went from the being in the 500s to being in the 700s.

What's the difference? The difference is this client ACTUALLY DID THE TO DO LIST. So Please Understand That to do list and you having your account active will determine Your ENTIRE EXPERIENCE

If you pay attention to the dates on the far right you will notice this is the Same exact client above. The moment she finally did her TO DO LIST. Her scores shot up almost to the 800s.

So once again CREDIT REPAIR DOES NOT BOOST YOUR SCORE.

HERE IS THE TO DO LIST…

• If You Do Not Complete These Steps, Your Scores WILL NOT INCREASE And That Will Be Completely On You.

• You DO NOT HAVE TO WAIT FOR EVERYTHING TO BE DELETED. YOU CAN START ON THIS NOW.

• If A Step Has Already Been Completed… Skip To The Next Step

• If You Are Seeking To Finance, Lease, Or Refinance A New Vehicle STEPS 1 & 2 ARE VERY IMPORTANT FOR YOU

• Even If You Can't Do Steps 1-5… YOU CAN DO STEP 6 & You Can Start RIGHT NOW

Step 1. Open Up A (Personal) Navy Federal Account Checking & Savings.

Deposit $100 In Each Accounts. +1-888-842-6328

Call and say hello my granddad was in the navy he's no longer with us but I remember before he passed he said I can get an account with you guys I don't remember his access code but I would still like to open an PERSONAL CHECKING AND SAVINGS account if possible.

They will then ask you two questions.

Was your granddad In The Navy, Marines, Army, Or Military? (You Can Say Military)

Then They Gone Ask How Did He Leave? (Say "Honorable")

(if they ask why do you want an account with them tell them you want to build a LONG TERM RELATIONSHIP WITH THEM.)

They're going to ask you what type of account you want to open. You're going to say regular personal and savings. You will need to deposit a minimum $10-$20 in order to open the account. If you can I recommend putting $100 in both.

Also if you get direct deposit I prefer you to have it get transferred to Navy federal or at least half. Trust me this will benefit you a few months from now when we start applying for things.

They will ask can they assist you with anything else you can so no for now

STEP 2 IS ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT FOR THOSE WHO ARE LOOKING TO REFINANCE OR FINANCE A CAR OR APPLY FOR ANY LOANS PERSONAL & BUSINESS

Step 2. Call Or Go Into Navy Federal & open up a secured Pledge loan for $2,500.

They will take that $2,500 out of your savings account and they will deposit it into a SEPARATE SAVINGS ACCOUNT.

If You Don't Have $2,500 try $1,500

If You Don't Have $1,500 Try $1,000

If You Don't Have $1,000 Try $500

If You Don't Have $500 Try $250

OBVIOUSLY THE MORE THE BETTER

Then You wait 3 days and call back and say you want to pay it off 90% and leave the rest on autopay. (DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT Pay Off The Full Balance. You Want To Leave A History Of On Time Payments. (35% of your credit score))

When you pay back 90% they will take $2,250 out of the savings account and deposit it back into your checking no account.

Now your new balance for the secured loan will be $250. For the next 12 months that $250 will be on Autopay. So every month they will take $21.25 out of that separate savings account and deposit it back into your checking account until that number hits $0.

But on your credit report it will show that you paid off a $2,250 loan even though you never actually took out an actual loan. You can take that same money and do it again

SIDE NOTE. If you can't do this because maybe you owe Navy Federal you can do this same strategy with other credit unions. You can literally google credit union near me and open an account and do a secured loan. I will give you 3 more that's great for auto loans though.

- Consumer CU (Good For Auto Loans, Anyone Can Join, Interest rates as low as 5%, Also Fund You Up To 100% Of The Car's Book Value, Loan Terms Up To 84 Months)

- DCU (Good For Auto-loans, Anyone can join, interest rates as low as 5.74%, Also Fund You Up To 130% Of The Car's Book Value, Have 84 Month Terms, & A Delayed Payment For 60 Days)

- PenFed CU (Good For Auto Loans, Rates As Low As 4.49%, Can Finance Up To 125% Of The Car's Book Value, Also Can Get A Pre-Qualification Before Getting The Approval Meaning You Don't Have To Get A Hard Inquiry)

AFTER STEP 2 IS DONE If You Want To Finance Or Refinance A Car Wait Until You Have A CLEAN CREDIT REPORT.

You Can Then Go Directly To Navy Federal Or Whichever Credit Union Or Bank You Did Your Secured Loan With

You Can Ask Them Directly For A Auto Loan And They Will Give You The PAPER CHECK For The Car

So Now The Dealership Won't Even Have To Run Your Credit Giving You A Million Inquiries

The Same Applies For Refinancing A Car.

Step 3. Pay Down Any Credit Cards That Are Over 30%

You Can Do This Immediately After Getting Your Money Back From The Secured Loan.

If You Don't Have Any Credit Cards Yet None Skip This Step

Preferably Pay IN FULL

If You Can't Pay In Full Pay To Where You Only Owe 10% Or Below

If You Can't Pay To Where You Owe Less Than 10% Try To Get It To Where You Only Owe 30% Or Below

If You Can't Get It Under 30% Then Pay The Minimum Balance & Go Watch The Recording On How To Use Credit Cards Correctly As I Did A Training On How To Get Out Of Credit Card Debt

Step 4. Go To Bank & Get A Secured Credit Card.

ONLY If You Don't Already Have A Credit Card That's At Least $500. The More The Better But Minimum $500 These are the banks I recommend getting a secured card from because they all graduate.

  • Wealthy Intention LLC - Credit Builder Card
  • US bank
  • Bank of America
  • Discover
  • Capital one

By graduate it means after 6-9 months of on time payment they'll give you your deposit back and it turns into a regular credit card. Or You Can Get The Secured Credit Card Through Whoever You Bank With

Step 5. Become An Authorized User

If You have a family member or a close friend who has good credit Ask them to add you to on their credit cards as A Authorized User. to help improve your score it won't affect them. I Will Show Examples Of A Good Account To Be On Vs A Bad Account.

Things To Look For

Payment History - 35% Of Your Credit Score This Account Has No Late Payments

Credit History - 15% Of Your Credit Score This Account Was Opened In 2025 So That's 11 Years Worth Of Credit History (Bank's Like To See 5+ Years)

If someone is skeptical about adding you as an authorized user for step 5 explain this to them.

You DO NOT NEED THE CARD. They can have it sent to them and they can cut it up

But it's a good start because if someone in the family already has good credit and have credit cards in GOOD STANDING…. By them adding you as an authorized user on their credit cards it will cause your credit score to go up. Why? Ok well when you are added to a credit card it's going to show up on your credit report that you have ACCESS To that Card.

So if for example if someone has a $10,000 Chase credit card and they had it for 10 years and the utilization is reporting below 30% and they are always on top of their bill this does multiple things for you.

  • It gives you 10 years worth of PAYMENT HISTORY which is 35% of your credit score
  • That $10,000 limit gets added to your Debt To Income Ratio. And your utilization is 30% Of Your Credit Score
  • That would be considered a revolving account. Credit mix is 10% of your credit score
  • And that would also be 10 years worth of Credit Age History which is 15% of your credit score.

So this will cause your score to sky rocket and by you having a higher credit score you are able to get approved for more money and have lower interest rates so it helps you in many ways while not AFFECTING THEM AT ALL

STEP 6. Credit Builder Accounts

  • THE PURPOSE OF THIS IS TO BUILD PAYMENT HISTORY & To Create A Good Credit Mix
  • Before You Can Apply For Anything You Need To Establish Some Type Of Payment History.
  • Get A Minimum 3, The More The Better But You NOT NEED THEM ALL.

Example: You want to have a good mix you don't want all revolving or all installments

Credit Growth Account Check List

Self - $35 - Installment whatever fits your budget (installment) Link

Kickoff - $20 (Revolving) Link

EXPERIAN BOOST - FREE TO JOIN Link

AVA - Revolving

Credit Strong $30 (Installment) Link

Grow Credit - $50 (Revolving) Link

Credit Builder Card

Rent Reporters

Experian Boost (FREE TO JOIN)

Total $133

If you use your credit card for gas pay it back ASAP

If Your Phone Bill is under $150 you can add it to your credit so that that payment history can be reporting. I ONLY RECOMMEND THIS IF YOUR PHONE BILL IS ALWAYS PAID ON TIME EVERY MONTH. Also you can add subscription apps such ass Netflix, Starz, Hulu, HboMax etc

Also if you're paying rent you can Download RENT REPORTERS and add your rent and utility bills. Make Sure You Put Your Move In Date To Add Credit History & Payment History (ONLY DO THIS IF YOUR RENT IS ALWAYS PAID ON TIME)

7. Apply For Credit Limit Increases

Book A Appointment If Confused About This Part But You Can Apply For A Increase Every 91 Days. So For 3 Months In A Row You Will Max Out Your Credit Cards By Either Making A Large Payment And Paying It Back Down Or Making A Large Purchase & Returning The Item. The Point Is To Get The HIGH CREDIT Part On Your Credit Report To Reflect As If You're Actually Spending Up Most Of Your Limit. As Long As This Is Paid Down 3 Days Before The Statement Date It Will Not Affect Your Credit Score

Step 8. By This Time It's Time To Maybe Add A Credit Card Or 2 To Your Profile.

UNLESS YOU ALREADY HAVE 5+ Credit Cards As Long As All Of Your Negative Items Are Deleted It's Safe To Apply. If You Need My Help Applying Feel Free To Book Me But I Will Charge 10% Of Whatever You Are Approved For. I Know What Answers To Put On The Application To Get The Most Amount Of Money. But It's Completely Up To You Nothing Wrong With Applying Yourself.

Step 9. For Those Who Want Business Loans

Book An Appointment To Make Sure Your LLC Is Set Up Properly https://api.leadconnectorhq.com/widget/bookings/1on1-1

Step 10. Congratulations!

Once This To Do List Is Completed By This Time You Should Be At A Minimum 720+ Credit Score. At This Point The Only Thing That Will Help You Strengthen Your Profile Is Adding Mortgage (Which IS NOT Mandatory. I Personally Don't Have A Mortgage And I Have A 798 Credit Score) The Only Other Thing That Will Help You Is TIME. Just Keep Your Utilization Down & Keep Making ON TIME PAYMENTS & You Have To Let Time Catch Up To Do It's Thing. And While You're Building Up That Payment History, Avoid Late Payments & Collections. Stay Away From Unnecessary Inquiries. That's Literally It. It's No Extra Special Sauce. Congratulations On Completing Your Program